Is it better to keep your HVAC at 60 or 90 so your actuators don't move?
Or, to change the temperature often so the blend doors don't stay stuck.
Or, to change the temperature often so the blend doors don't stay stuck.
How do you prevent stuck blend doors?
- Thread starter A_User55555
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JHZR2
Staff member
I have vacuum operated hvac on 40+ year old Mercedes cars, 25 year old Dodge and chevy trucks.
I try to move them as little as possible. Avoid constant changes to open and close them.
Ive never had one stuck. Stuck to me means the actuator is failed. I did put one into a specific place because it had hybrid vacuum auto controls and manual vent closure, and I thought the manual part was enough.
I try to move them as little as possible. Avoid constant changes to open and close them.
Ive never had one stuck. Stuck to me means the actuator is failed. I did put one into a specific place because it had hybrid vacuum auto controls and manual vent closure, and I thought the manual part was enough.
Its not so much the cost of the actuator, its more like the hassle of replacing it. Some cars require you to remove the dashboard to replace the actuator
I changed out one on a crown vic. Hurt my chances of going to heaven.
If you intent on keeping the car for a long time, buying some blend doors might be a wise investment.
They are mostly made of plastic, time, heat, turns them into paper.
They are mostly made of plastic, time, heat, turns them into paper.
What about making them from a 3D printer?
Keep your cabin air filters clean?
In short there's nothing you can do other than leaving the temp at 72 degrees year round but the doors will still move on an automatic climate control system. Sometimes the doors are fine but the motors go out.
yep, my 99 accord is the same, been stuck between floor and dash vents for 4-5 years now...one of these days I'll get to it
A fortnight ago we had a cold spell to the tune of 0*F and the temperature blend door on the driver's side got logy.
After warm up I thought to dial it up to full hot, wait a few seconds then turn it down.
It freed up.
Was the actuator motor's grease thick? Could a hint of moisture cause the door itself to stick?
I don't know.
2007 Volvo V70 base w/126K
The passenger's side worked fine.
If nothing else it "affirmed" my practice of running the AC often to keep moisture in the cabin as low as can be.
Obviously this "affirmation" doesn't follow the deductive path.
After warm up I thought to dial it up to full hot, wait a few seconds then turn it down.
It freed up.
Was the actuator motor's grease thick? Could a hint of moisture cause the door itself to stick?
I don't know.
2007 Volvo V70 base w/126K
The passenger's side worked fine.
If nothing else it "affirmed" my practice of running the AC often to keep moisture in the cabin as low as can be.
Obviously this "affirmation" doesn't follow the deductive path.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
Unless you can find a program for the exact part online you have to have a way to measure/model it exactly and create a program. Sending one out to have it 3D scanned probably not worth it unless you're going to produce them.
I wonder if vehicles with auto climate controls use beefier blend door actuators than the base models? I'm guessing not.
Definitely I would think that minimizing how often you change the temperature, or stick with manual mode instead of auto will preserve the lifespan. I changed out a Ford unit recently and it's all just plastic parts on the actuator. A dinky little motor and plastic worm gears.
Definitely I would think that minimizing how often you change the temperature, or stick with manual mode instead of auto will preserve the lifespan. I changed out a Ford unit recently and it's all just plastic parts on the actuator. A dinky little motor and plastic worm gears.
Maybe? The ones I’ve seen aren’t too complicated. A flap with two nubbies to pivot on and some foam trim on a sealing surface. The foam trim could be hardest if it’s a wiping surface. Some of these wouldnt be hard to produce with 1/8 acrylic plastic and soft metal bits, so even basic 3D printing could handle it. in my experience it’s the servo that’s the problem.
except for the fresh/recirc flapper in the Gen 4 caravan we had…. It was a cylindrical, rotary arrangement, which would have been harder to fabricate crudely.
this is one thing I absolutely appreciate about my 1991 Toyota Previa. The flaps are cable actuated, operated by levers. No motors involved. This is one way simpler works better. I am not so lazy I need a servo motor to open and close a flap!
There's so many failure points with today's electronic blend doors there's no way to mitigate them.
Worse yet, I know any FCA/Stellantis vehicle I've owned since ~2013 actuates blend doors automatically in some sort of test mode when you open/close the vehicle's doors after the vehicle has sat for some time. My 2013 Grand Caravan and 2017 Ram 1500 did it, as does my 2019 Ram 1500 classic.
Worse yet, I know any FCA/Stellantis vehicle I've owned since ~2013 actuates blend doors automatically in some sort of test mode when you open/close the vehicle's doors after the vehicle has sat for some time. My 2013 Grand Caravan and 2017 Ram 1500 did it, as does my 2019 Ram 1500 classic.
sell your gm and buy a toyota
Why would anyone do that? Toyotas suck.
after 2 failures i blocked the ac ducts in dash mode and never touch the temp control. if its cold -i drive my sorento . gm doors are prue garbage . plastic gears inside. my friend is on blend door in his silverado
your an idiot . toyota best car in the whole world . has been for 40 years
Toyota is a trash can car for third world countries.
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