Is there a mileage marker or car age at which time shocks should be replaced on a car -- or at least checked thoroughly? Or is this something you just determine by feel on the road - i.e. feeling potholes or bumps more and more?
I don't do any off roading and am not really interested in modding my car to be something it isn't. The roads here are pretty good with an occasional pothole or bump or two giving my butt a bit of a knock.
Short of a trustworthy mechanic giving me sound advice, how can I tell if the shocks on either of my cars need to be replaced?
Thanks.
How do you know when shocks need to be replaced?
- Thread starter Pajamarama
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Oil leaks
Severe nose dive when braking
The back of the car goes way up when braking
The back of the car goes way down when you floor the gas pedal
Car bounces like a bobblehead doll over bumps
Tires get weird wear patterns that don't look like underinflation on misalignment wear
And sometimes the car making clunking noise over bumps if the mounts and bushings on the shock/strut have worn out.
Don't rely on the bounce test. I tried it and no indication that the struts neeed replacing. I removed one and it was done, had to replace them. Artificialist has all the symptoms listed.
The bounce test was valid on big old softly sprung cars like an 84' Chevy Caprice. It's not valid on mist anything modern.
I think the standard answer from the shocks company is anywhere from 50-60k but I've gotten 80-90k out of a set with mostly highway miles. Even if they're not completely gone, it might be worth replacing them, did my struts again not too long ago and the handling is crisper and response is better. It's harder to control a car while it's bouncing up and down.
OK, one more newbie question:
Is it necessary or best to replace all 4 struts/shocks at once, or can you do only front or back?
I had never replaced struts until my 1997 Malibu had a coil spring rust and break. I was going to replace both sides in the back with the easy-strut and the shop had a Monroe special so it wasnt a whole lot more to do the whole car. 111k miles at the time. I now have 135k on the car and it improved the ride and handling to the point I hate to get rid of the car. Michigan is real hard on struts and shocks. Honestly I think you can get away with just replacing the leaking strut and if youre ok with that, you will save some money. If youre going to keep the car a few more years its worth it to get new shocks/struts all around. They usually are stiffer. YMMV
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Oil leaks
Severe nose dive when braking
The back of the car goes way up when braking
The back of the car goes way down when you floor the gas pedal
Car bounces like a bobblehead doll over bumps
Tires get weird wear patterns that don't look like underinflation on misalignment wear
And sometimes the car making clunking noise over bumps if the mounts and bushings on the shock/strut have worn out.
Originally Posted By: Pajamarama
OK, one more newbie question:
Is it necessary or best to replace all 4 struts/shocks at once, or can you do only front or back?
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Thanks everyone for your answers.
There's 100k on my Taurus wagon and sometimes I wish it handled better -- less road bumpiness, better maneuverability, less steering wheel jitteriness (sometimes). Then again it's a wagon and will never be a sports car.
Maybe when money's not so tight I can replace the struts/shocks since I'm going to keep this car for a while.
Really worn out shocks have a tire bouncing like a basketball on really broken up pavement. This shows up easily when turning moderately hard on a rough road, as the tire won't grip with so little time on the road.
I've still got the original front struts in the Tracker and they are still acceptable on choppy roads, I hopefully won't have to replace them before the vehicle is done.
On the front, bad struts bottom out when moving too fast over bumps or dips.
When I sold auto parts for a living I attended a seminar on shocks and struts put on by Monroe. The best test they gave us was to drive the car a few miles and check the temperature. A shock or strut that is working will be warmer because dampening causes heat, bypassing fluid will not.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
200k and going strong on the Accord.
Rule of thumb is every 50K, some don't make it that long, some go longer. I'd your feeling more bounce, more body roll, plenty driving when braking hard or a not so planted feeling when driving I would replace them. I'm a big fan of Bilsteins.
Wayne
Originally Posted By: VicVinegar
Originally Posted By: dblshock
200k and going strong on the Accord.
Bounce test is worthless according to a rockauto.com newsletter article.
Struts have 3 valves, when you bounce test you activate the valve that gets used the least. The first two valves get most of use and wear out quicker. Posted the article in article section months ago.
Last time I took my Jetta to the shop for inspection they failed it for bad struts. I'm 99% sure they didn't drive it. Yet I got to inspect the struts afterwards, and yep, zero resistance. RMA'd them, Koni replaced, so they were dead. How did the shop know? I'll have to ask next time I go, I guess.
[Unfortunately the shop put the struts back in at full soft, so I honestly can't tell any difference in how it rides.]
One thing I've noticed on my car, might only be my car, but when the struts were at the end, if I were to brake moderately hard for a light, and come to a full stop, and wait for the car to level off, wait a few seconds, then let off the brake (manual trans) I could feel the car drop in the rear. Normally I'd think suspension bushings but both times it went away with new struts.
I can tell by driving the car. Of course, of they are leaking then they need to be replaced as well. Just replaced a pair on my beater because when one leaks, it can get water in it which them freezes in the winter and the ride is really harsh!
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