How do I know when to start using High Mileage oil?

[friday]

Hello everyone, I got 5 qt. of MaxLife free from a promotion. Now I am not sure when or if I should start using it. My '97 Civic has about 140k mostly freeway miles and has it oil and filters changed every 7 to 8 thousands miles with whatever oil and filter were on sale the week before. It uses about a quart every oil change. So I don't think I *need* the high mileage oil, but since I got them I like to know if it is safe to use, then go back to the 69 cents oil? TIA

 

[Spector]

IMO unless there is a significant seal leak or oil consumption there is no need to chagne what has worked well up to that point. Further, these high mileage oils are marketing hype IMO and would not make any difference is what you see anyway. A quart in 7000 miles is nothing so I would not change the oil, weight etc. Yes, you can use the oil you have.

 

[unDummy]

It was free, use it. If your oil consumption increases, then you'll know what not to use. If it decreases, then you'll be able to make your own decision on whether to keep the high mileage oil or switch back to the cheapo stuff.

 

[HOndaGuy]

try to stay with the same brand name. Example, castrol gtx, gtx high mileage, or syntec.

 

[Drew99GT]

That's an interesting find! For 5w-30 use in wintertime, I think a high mileage oil is the only way to go, as they are blended to 12 Cst at 100C but still pump 5w. Only problem is I can't find 5w-30 high mileage of any brand anywhere in Colorado Springs

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by TallPaul: I am using Maxlife in all my vehicles. It is better than the standard oil because it does not have the "Energy Conserving" rating, which means it is a more robust oil that cannot pass the fuel mileage test and beat the mileage of a 5w30 synthetic oil.

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I was not too impressed with the wear numbers in my LT1 Firebird using Maxlife 10w30, even with it's viscosity being 11.5cst at 100C it still lacked the antiwear additives needed to protect this hard driven engine. I was impressed with it's relatively decent TBN retention though, and very good viscosity retention, at least in 10w30 form.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by Drew99GT: That's an interesting find! For 5w-30 use in wintertime, I think a high mileage oil is the only way to go, as they are blended to 12 Cst at 100C but still pump 5w. Only problem is I can't find 5w-30 high mileage of any brand anywhere in Colorado Springs

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I'm surprised. WalMarts around here carry both the Pennzoil and Valvoline flavors. 5W-30 and 10W-30...

 

[rpn453]

I've gotten the impression from advertisements that high mileage oils have additives to swell the seals. If high mileage oils do this, then it's probably best not to use them continuously. Seal swell can damage seals that don't need it. Probably not going to hurt anything if you use it for a single oil change. Definitely not a problem to switch back to your normal oil after. I have over 300,000 km on my 2.5L Grand Am and it uses about 1 litre per 10,000 km. It's seen mostly M1 10W-30 (summer) and 5W-30 (winter) over the last 100,000 km. If it ever starts consuming oil, I'll probably just go to a heavier grade where temperatures permit. IMHO the high mileage oils are more about marketing than anything else. Their definition of an older engine is equivalent to my definition of an engine in its prime. [ October 24, 2003, 02:35 PM: Message edited by: rpn453 ]

 

[Patman]

The high mileage oils contain esters to help swell the seals, so it's not harmful at all, as many synthetic oils contain esters too.

 

[Bror Jace]

"I was not too impressed with the wear numbers in my LT1 Firebird using Maxlife 10w30" That's too bad Patman because the early batches were loaded with moly and put up some fairly impressive numbers 2+ years ago. fiday, if given Max-Life for free, I'd simply use it. I am not too concerned about occasionally switching brands of oils. I don't think that "backyard blending" or switching oils are practices likely to produce a superior lubricant ... but I'm equally sure it will do no harm if done only occasionally. In general, I'd run these "high mileage" oils at pretty much any time in a car's life. The seal swelling effect of the esters designed to minimize consumption is minor. Any time after 50,000 miles is fine. My fave othese ester-fortified oils is the Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle formula (Group II+ base oil, some ester, some moly, oh my! ) ... but I'm interested to see the Chevron stuff as well. --- Bror Jace

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bror Jace: That's too bad Patman because the early batches were loaded with moly and put up some fairly impressive numbers 2+ years ago.

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When I first joined this site, when it was on the old message board, you may remember I was using Mobil 1, and heard you guys talking about Maxlife and it's good dose of moly, which is why I made the switch. I started out using the SJ formula, which must've been one of the last batches of it, because it had no moly. Then I tried an interval with the SL formula, and found out not only did it not have moly either, but the rest of their additive package was even weaker too, they reduced zinc, phosphorus and calcium by quite a lot, despite them claiming otherwise. The originals on this board will recall my shock and dismay when I got my very first UOA back and found almost no moly in it whatsoever! I was ready to strangle someone at Valvoline! It's funny how things have changed, because here I am now using an oil with no moly in it, and seeing my best wear numbers to date.

 

[eljefino]

Just a quick heads up on the five quarts free promotion: They want the screw tops from Five one quart jugs. So don't go buy one five quart jug like I did. I'm still going to send in for the rebate & see what happens.

 

[Swift]

I came across that promotion also and plan to put it in my wifes 160,000 mile 4Runner. Heck can't hurt for an oil change and since when do ya get something for nothin?

 

[goldfinger]

Agreed. As the alot of people say "Any SL rated dino will go 3,000 miles". If it's free, might as well try it if you have a higher mileage car. I can't imagine it hurting anything. Free oil is a good thing! Too bad I can't get a different addy and redeem a few more.

 

[TallPaul]

I am using Maxlife in all my vehicles. It is better than the standard oil because it does not have the "Energy Conserving" rating, which means it is a more robust oil that cannot pass the fuel mileage test and beat the mileage of a 5w30 synthetic oil. The only way Dino oil can do that is by temporary viscosity sheer throught the bearings. Some manufacturers use this along with thinner 5w20 and 5w30 oils to meet CAFE standards, but in the long run it is not so good for our engines. See: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=518&relatedbookgroup=Maintenance http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/dearmfr/ccd0006.pdf [ October 24, 2003, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]

 

[Jelly]

quote:

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Originally posted by TallPaul: It is better than the standard oil because it does not have the "Energy Conserving" rating...

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Doesn't mean it is any better Paul...I'll put Chevron Supreme or regular Pennzoil up against MaxLife any day of the week...

 

[JohnnyO]

quote:

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Originally posted by rpn453: I've gotten the impression from advertisements that high mileage oils have additives to swell the seals. If high mileage oils do this, then it's probably best not to use them continuously. Seal swell can damage seals that don't need it. Probably not going to hurt anything if you use it for a single oil change.

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My feelings exactly. I'm changing the oil in my beater work van today (ex-phone co. '87 Astro 4.3L, 120k). I switch Max-Life and plain ol' Valvoline every other change with an AC filter. (They have a plant in my town so I buy local, I know y'all bag on Valvoline...the new Ranger and the wife's car get M1.) The van would smoke on warm start-ups with 5w-30 but doesn't with 10w-30. No owners manual, the dipstick says 10w-30 and the filler cap says 5w-30.