Correct.... UNLESS those same "engineers" say to use 0W-16! Then you automatically know they're full of
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How Adding Too Much Oil Can Be Detrimental To An Engine
- Thread starter BlueOvalFitter
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Correct.... UNLESS those same "engineers" say to use 0W-16! Then you automatically know they're full of
!!
Wow that escalated quickly.
Some people don't realize how much power they are throwing away to little free things. I know a local bracket racer who has a mild 383ci SBC making ~400 hp. He's using 20W-50 oil in a standard 5 quart pan that he overfills to 6 quarts... and can't figure out why his oil pressure keeps dropping to zero on the top end. He's also probably killing 20 hp or more between the viscosity and windage. I have 5.5 quarts of 0W-12 in a 7 quart pan with a windage tray and crank scraper.
I must've mentioned my neighbor's 2002 Audi A4 w/3.0l V6?
The neighbor said, "I keep adding oil and it keeps smoking."
I drained ~11 quarts of oil from the engine. The oil was filled with black crumbs, like crumbs in a toaster's catch tray.
I drove the car until it stopped smoking. FYI: It takes 6 qt.
I strained the crumbs out with cheesecloth and reused it (always efficient)
The neighbor said, "I keep adding oil and it keeps smoking."
I drained ~11 quarts of oil from the engine. The oil was filled with black crumbs, like crumbs in a toaster's catch tray.
I drove the car until it stopped smoking. FYI: It takes 6 qt.
I strained the crumbs out with cheesecloth and reused it (always efficient)
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It depends on an engine how much it can safely take more than max.
In BMW track/racing community overfilling is normal as N54/55 engines (non M versions of N55) are known to have oil starvation during high G loads turning left. People regularly overfill with a quart.
So, it depends on an engine.
In BMW track/racing community overfilling is normal as N54/55 engines (non M versions of N55) are known to have oil starvation during high G loads turning left. People regularly overfill with a quart.
So, it depends on an engine.
Well, he is lucky it didn’t lock.
I'm talking about different guys in one shop, they have no incentive to gouge anything, just different ideas about what is correct for the 2014+ 5.3.
This is because the original manual called for 8.5 quarts, then GM issued an update that corrected the manual to 8 quarts. It applies to all 2014-2018 5.3 and 6.2 engines. Also, having changed the oil on both these engines, the dipstick doesn't seem to be very accurate either. After the update to 8 quarts, I put that in during an oil change and then checked the dipstick. It was low by about a quart. Yet if you add another quart and bring it up to the full mark then take it for a 10 minute drive the dipstick will show over by about .5 quarts or more. Let it sit and cool back down, it'll be lower than the full mark but at least be between the Add and Full lines. Not sure why these engines do this as every Chevy 350 I've ever dealt with took 5 quarts exactly and never had any issues with the dipstick reading correctly.
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If a little is good, then moar is better!
My sons 1996 Toyota Corolla's engine (1.8) holds 3.7 qts. He adds 4 qts. and calls it a day.
I would do the same. It's only 1/4 of a qt.
If anyone tells you putting 8 qts in will cause harm, I would really doubt their automotive knowledge frankly.
Too add, re-read the blurb article...........YES overfilling is not smart at all. BUT 1/4-1/2 quart?
I put oil capacity into much the same category as tire pressure. They engineer a wide variance into both of them, because they know most consumers are not the sharpest knives in the drawer. And that's who is going to be in charge of their pressures and levels. (Or the monkeys at Quick Lube).
A half quart either way isn't going to matter. Perhaps not even a full quart is some engines. Just like 5, or even 10 PSI either way isn't going to be the end of the world with your tires.
If it did there would be trashed engines, and destroyed tires everywhere. The fact is it takes extreme neglect to damage either one. Sure, here at BITOG we can come up with how and why that isn't true. Because of the rotation of the Earth, or if the Sun hits the left or right tires, which is why you should only drive your car at night, for uniform heating of the rubber.
But in the grand scheme of things, it's not going to matter 98% of the time. Just dump in what the manual say's it holds, or pump them up to what the door sticker says. And motor on happily.
A half quart either way isn't going to matter. Perhaps not even a full quart is some engines. Just like 5, or even 10 PSI either way isn't going to be the end of the world with your tires.
If it did there would be trashed engines, and destroyed tires everywhere. The fact is it takes extreme neglect to damage either one. Sure, here at BITOG we can come up with how and why that isn't true. Because of the rotation of the Earth, or if the Sun hits the left or right tires, which is why you should only drive your car at night, for uniform heating of the rubber.
But in the grand scheme of things, it's not going to matter 98% of the time. Just dump in what the manual say's it holds, or pump them up to what the door sticker says. And motor on happily.
It depends on the engine, i guess.
My S2000 has a windage tray under the crank to avoid oil foaming, for example.
My Kawasaki ZRX 1200 engine has exactly the same Bottom end as the previous ZZR 1100 engines. Kawasaki has lowerd the oil volume and the position of the oil gauge glass on the ZRX 1200.. Many ZRX owners (me to) overfill the engine. Everyone is puzzeld why kawasaki has done this... and agin, the Bottom ends of the engines are 100% identical.
I have done the "Fill it by the volume printed in the handbook" method a few times, never worked for me. I fill engines now judging by the dipstick or oil gauge. I check the oil level allways before i start the engine, when i could be sure that all the oil hass settled in oil pan. I allways keep it near maximum level. Better save then Sorry...
What realy puzzles me: When a engine is running, the oil level in the oil pan is reduced about 80%, because the oil is sucked into the pump, splashed around in the engine and needs a little bit of time to flow back. You could see it here from Minute 7:40 around:
With so little oil left at the bottom of the oil pan when the engine is actually running, how could a little overfill do harm? I just dont understand it.
My S2000 has a windage tray under the crank to avoid oil foaming, for example.
My Kawasaki ZRX 1200 engine has exactly the same Bottom end as the previous ZZR 1100 engines. Kawasaki has lowerd the oil volume and the position of the oil gauge glass on the ZRX 1200.. Many ZRX owners (me to) overfill the engine. Everyone is puzzeld why kawasaki has done this... and agin, the Bottom ends of the engines are 100% identical.
I have done the "Fill it by the volume printed in the handbook" method a few times, never worked for me. I fill engines now judging by the dipstick or oil gauge. I check the oil level allways before i start the engine, when i could be sure that all the oil hass settled in oil pan. I allways keep it near maximum level. Better save then Sorry...
What realy puzzles me: When a engine is running, the oil level in the oil pan is reduced about 80%, because the oil is sucked into the pump, splashed around in the engine and needs a little bit of time to flow back. You could see it here from Minute 7:40 around:
With so little oil left at the bottom of the oil pan when the engine is actually running, how could a little overfill do harm? I just dont understand it.
The engines in that article were 1.5-3 quarts overfull.
And at those high levels the symptoms only appeared at high RPMs.
To me that means a street engine with a properly sized dipstick will likely have no problem if 1/2 qt over full.
And at those high levels the symptoms only appeared at high RPMs.
To me that means a street engine with a properly sized dipstick will likely have no problem if 1/2 qt over full.
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'Likely'? Is 'likely' safe enough for you? These runs only revealed the obvious oil pressure issues. Nobody was looking into these engines. There could have been issues even at lower engine speeds which just nobody noticed. There even could occur issues with less overfilling, e.g. when cornering or braking and the crankshaft hitting the oil at one end of the engine. You won't suffer from this on a rolling road and we don't know this, at least this article doesn't reveal anything about this. However, be assured the manufacturer knows more than you.
Of course it depends on the actual engine and some other factors such as incline, acceleration, braking, cornering speeds etc..
However, because it DOES depend on several factors unknown to most, as a GENERAL recommendation, you have to be careful with generalizations.
Therefore it's dangerous making general claims such as 'it doesn't matter' or 'one more quart is ok' because in some cases it actually DOES matter (or isn't 'ok'). This is the 21st century and many people lack reading comprehension. As a result many readers tend to take generalized recommendation down the wrong pipe. What remains behind is 'it doesn't matter on any car' and that's potentially fatal.
The correct oil level is where the correct oil level is - between MIN and MAX. Do with your own car what you like to do with it, but please be careful with general recommendations on public forums.
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'Likely'? Is 'likely' safe enough for you? These runs only revealed the obvious oil pressure issues. Nobody was looking into these engines. There could have been issues even at lower engine speeds which just nobody noticed. There even could occur issues with less overfilling, e.g. when cornering or braking and the crankshaft hitting the oil at one end of the engine. You won't suffer from this on a rolling road and we don't know this, at least this article doesn't reveal anything about this. However, be assured the manufacturer knows more than you.
Of course it depends on the actual engine and some other factors such as incline, acceleration, braking, cornering speeds etc..
However, because it DOES depend on several factors unknown to most, as a GENERAL recommendation, you have to be careful with generalizations.
Therefore it's dangerous making general claims such as 'it doesn't matter' or 'one more quart is ok' because in some cases it actually DOES matter (or isn't 'ok'). This is the 21st century and many people lack reading comprehension. As a result many readers tend to take generalized recommendation down the wrong pipe. What remains behind is 'it doesn't matter on any car' and that's potentially fatal.
The correct oil level is where the correct oil level is - between MIN and MAX. Do with your own car what you like to do with it, but please be careful with general recommendations on public forums.
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OK understood, but that article REALLY didn't address your finer points nor did directly address the fact that some clown puts three qts over max.........kinda is an idiot and shouldn't even pop the hood.
Show me an engine with 7.75qts written required capacity, exact center of dipstick RANGE marks, that would even come up to MAX with 0.25qt more oil (8qts) AND with those 8 qts would suffer in any way. To me, this would be a very poor design!
Engineers design engines knowing maintenance is sloppy, so they can operate just fine over filled and underfilled by a large amount. I've seen many engines running just fine that are 2 + quarts low on oil. When most engines start, the level in the oil pan drops 1 - 2+ quarts, so it would be very hard to overfill an engine to the point the crank is touching the oil when running.
And MORE is best.If a little is good, then moar is better!
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