The following post I copied froma member on another website. What do you guys think? It was posted 3/06 :http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=751605
been looking for days for a good web sight. I am having trouble finding one. So take my comments for what they are worth.... I think I have good logic on the subject. There are two basic types of petrolium oil... ash based and parifin based. Avoid parifin based oils at all costs. These include penzoil and quaker state. parifin based oils need far more additives to preform as well as ash based oils. The oils now days must conform to manufacturers specs and all are good if they claim to be compliant. As far as muti weight oils.... follow fords recomondations! Unless your FI or beating the **** out of your car. If Ford recommends 5W-30, Use it!! unless you can get a synthetic in 0W-20. (over kill). The point is that the bigger number is important for hot operation. The lower number (lower is better) is for cold start up. Some people here have said that before changing oil to run it for 15 minutes so the oil thins out. WRONG!! With multi viscosity oil, the oil can acually get THICKER with heat. It is designed to do that. the point of having your oil warm before an oil change is to suspend the contaminates in the oil before you drain it. Period. It isn't to make the oil thinner. An indy team in the 1970's thought they could beat the friction of an engine by making an all ball bearing engine with ball bearings on the crank and rod bearings. they found out after MUCHO dollars that they gained little to no horse power with the bearings. That is right.. our oil pressure bearings are as effective as ball bearings. Liuqid ball bearings is an acurate statment..even thou it is made by a sub standard oil company. Think about it... if you have pressurized oil pushed into the bearing clearances.. your not seeing any metal to metal contact. that is how our engines can see 200,000 plus miles on them. If the oil did any worse, we wouldn't get 20,000 miles on them before they are worn out. Now for synthetics. Yes they are better. Do we need them? Except for the extream racing people ... NO. They lubricate no better. Oil film is oil film. If your reaching race speeds with the resultant higher oil temps.. then go for synthetics! The benifits of synthetics are that they hold up to high heat better, and the additive packages last longer. That is all!! Think about it.. from O weight up to 50 weight.. which flows easier? the zero does of course. What do you want in your crank case at a cold start up? an easy flowing zero weight? or that thick *** 50 weight oil that takes 20 seconds to get to the bearings? Zero for me thank you! The beauty is that the 30 in the 0W-30 formula protects the engine that is hot at the 30W value. You have the best of both worlds. Hope this helps people understand. I am still looking for a web sight that explains it better than I can....
been looking for days for a good web sight. I am having trouble finding one. So take my comments for what they are worth.... I think I have good logic on the subject. There are two basic types of petrolium oil... ash based and parifin based. Avoid parifin based oils at all costs. These include penzoil and quaker state. parifin based oils need far more additives to preform as well as ash based oils. The oils now days must conform to manufacturers specs and all are good if they claim to be compliant. As far as muti weight oils.... follow fords recomondations! Unless your FI or beating the **** out of your car. If Ford recommends 5W-30, Use it!! unless you can get a synthetic in 0W-20. (over kill). The point is that the bigger number is important for hot operation. The lower number (lower is better) is for cold start up. Some people here have said that before changing oil to run it for 15 minutes so the oil thins out. WRONG!! With multi viscosity oil, the oil can acually get THICKER with heat. It is designed to do that. the point of having your oil warm before an oil change is to suspend the contaminates in the oil before you drain it. Period. It isn't to make the oil thinner. An indy team in the 1970's thought they could beat the friction of an engine by making an all ball bearing engine with ball bearings on the crank and rod bearings. they found out after MUCHO dollars that they gained little to no horse power with the bearings. That is right.. our oil pressure bearings are as effective as ball bearings. Liuqid ball bearings is an acurate statment..even thou it is made by a sub standard oil company. Think about it... if you have pressurized oil pushed into the bearing clearances.. your not seeing any metal to metal contact. that is how our engines can see 200,000 plus miles on them. If the oil did any worse, we wouldn't get 20,000 miles on them before they are worn out. Now for synthetics. Yes they are better. Do we need them? Except for the extream racing people ... NO. They lubricate no better. Oil film is oil film. If your reaching race speeds with the resultant higher oil temps.. then go for synthetics! The benifits of synthetics are that they hold up to high heat better, and the additive packages last longer. That is all!! Think about it.. from O weight up to 50 weight.. which flows easier? the zero does of course. What do you want in your crank case at a cold start up? an easy flowing zero weight? or that thick *** 50 weight oil that takes 20 seconds to get to the bearings? Zero for me thank you! The beauty is that the 30 in the 0W-30 formula protects the engine that is hot at the 30W value. You have the best of both worlds. Hope this helps people understand. I am still looking for a web sight that explains it better than I can....
