How about a GC Redline mix?

[Thatwouldbegreat]

I know Pscholte may not like this.... but:


I have a 1995 325i convertible that is near the end of the ARX rinse phase.

I ~want~ to use GC but keep coming back to the 'its too thin' '3.5 HTHS is the minimum', 'but its ACEA A-3 rated and suggested for use in some European markets' debate.

Engine has 152K on it and we've had it for 6 weeks.

The ARX really brought the engine back to top shape.

Engine runs great, no oil consumption with Maxlife 10W-40 over 1500 miles of rinse cycle... even in the 105 degree heat.

Some posts on this subject have been to the effect that GC will be OK but there may be oil consumption with 0W-30 instead of 10W-40 or 15W-40.

I wonder if I should use VSOT or Redline 10W-40 with the GC to thicken up the oil a little bit.

This might be closer to the oil viscosity chart in the owner's manual.

How about 5 quarts GC to 1.8 quarts of Redline 10W-40 and a 7K to 10K OCI with LC-20 and FP60?

 

[shanneba]

I like GC in my 2003 330Ci. No oil consumption but I am only at 37000 miles.
The BMW synthetic 5w-30 does well for 5 - 6k intervals.
What about Syntec 5w-40 with GC? It has ACAE A3/B3 and the BMW LL-98 rating.

Why not run GC for 5000 miles and then run the Red line for 5k and compare the UOAs? You would then know if there was any consumption.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Curious!

Since you are totally convinced GC is the answer-ticket to your engine - with a booster from another oil or additive, then go for it.

I would try 6-1/2 qts of GC and a full bottle of VSOT (first OCI)... then switch to a half bottle afterwards. I'm assuming you have a 7-qt crankcase.

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

quote:

---

Originally posted by shanneba:
I like GC in my 2003 330Ci. No oil consumption but I am only at 37000 miles.
The BMW synthetic 5w-30 does well for 5 - 6k intervals.
What about Syntec 5w-40 with GC? It has ACAE A3/B3 and the BMW LL-98 rating.

Why not run GC for 5000 miles and then run the Red line for 5k and compare the UOAs? You would then know if there was any consumption.

---

I presume your owner's manual spec's thinner oil for '03 than for '95.

Does the manual approve 5W-30 for all temps?

 

[cguy]

I just changed my 8.1L Silverado with 6 quarts of GC Gold 0w30 with a twist of RedLine 15w40 1 quart. Smooooth for a big block!

 

[shanneba]

5w-30 is speced for all temps as the prefered viscosity in the 2003 owners manual. 5w-40 is listed as an option.

From the manual:
Use only approved BMW High Performance
Synthetic Oil.
.
.
.
Approved oils are in SAE classes
5W-40 and 5W-30. These kinds of oil may be used for driving
in all ambient temperatures.

 

[Alcibiades]

As I understand it, GC and Redline are totally different oils, presumably with totally different add packs. I would definitely use one, then the other, and compare UOAs, and then MAYBE mix them after consultation with someone like Terry Dyson who can really give you expert advice.

If you think the GC is too thin, why not try RL 5W-40?

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Alcibiades:
As I understand it, GC and Redline are totally different oils, presumably with totally different add packs. I would definitely use one, then the other, and compare UOAs, and then MAYBE mix them after consultation with someone like Terry Dyson who can really give you expert advice.

If you think the GC is too thin, why not try RL 5W-40?

---

I have a case of RL 10W-40 which I feel is the best oil for the 1986 325es M20 eta motor.

The 1995 325ic M50 motor is probably closer to the 1986 325es in terms of oil requirements than it is to the 2003 330i.

I have almost 100 quarts of GC green and I'd like to use it in the 1995 325i...I just think it is close to , or at, the low end of the viscosity scale for this motor.

So I really believe I should use Redline 10W-40, but I want to use GC 0W-30 or bump the viscosity just a bit higher .

The last few days I was down in Boulder and Denver and the temps were 100+.

I was thinking about the pros and cons of thin synthetic vs thicker synthetic oil. I want to use thin oil, but this motor needs 0W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40.

And GC is ~almost~ 0W-40...but not quite!

Here's the start of a thread by TooSlick on his 06 Outback oil chart:


Originally posted by TooSlick:
From my '06 Outback manual:

"Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However, in hot weather, oils of higher viscosity is required to properly protect the engine."

They recommend:

5w-30 for temps up to 100F
10w-30/10w-40 for temps > -5F/-15C

For HD use such as very hot weather or trailer towing:

30wt,40wt,10w-50,20w-40,20w-50

Sounds like a recommendation made by an experience powertrain engineer and NOT someone who's only interest is increased fuel efficiency.

TS

----------=========---------

In Germany Castrol specs :

1995 BMW 325i

Motor M50
optimaler Schutz und Leistung
Castrol GTX5 Magnatec 10W-40

---

Castrol USA specs:

Your selection
Category : Automotive
Sub-category : Car, Van, SUV, Truck
Manufacturer : BMW
Model : 325i
Year : 1995
Engine : 6 Cyl-2.5L
Climate : Above 5
Change Selection
Your Recommendations

Engine Oil

Castrol RX Super Heavy Duty
SM,SL,SJ 15W-40 - Engineered for Car and Light Truck Diesel Engines

Castrol

SYNTEC BLEND
SM,SL,SJ 15W-40 - Added Protection for Frequent Short Trips


---
Castrol UK:

Make BMW
Model 3 Series: 325i/is Coupe, -Convertible (M50, E36)
Engine P
Year 1990-97


Application Recommendation Capacity (ltr) Links
Engine (P) Castrol's best oil for your vehicle EDGE SPORT 0W-40 (a) 6.5


Alternative recommendation GTX MAGNATEC 10W-40 (a)



---
Castrol Australia:

BMW
325i E36 Series, 2494cm³ Eng. (1991-1995)


Crankcase

CASTROL MAGNATEC
Protection from the moment you turn the key SAE 10W-40, API SL/CF ACEA A3/B3 * Recommended for petrol or diesel cars, 4WDs and light commercials.

CASTROL GTX3
Superior Engine Protection SAE 15W-40, API SL/CF * Recommended for modern vehicles with multivalve engines, including turbo models.


---

In the US Mobil 1 specs :Current Vehicle:
Year: 1995
Make: BMW
Model: 325i
Engine Type: 6cyl. 2.5Liter


Mobil 1 0W-40

 

[GMorg]

Have you considered a summer/winter strategy that lets you switch between the GC and Redline?

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

quote:

---

Originally posted by GMorg:
Have you considered a summer/winter strategy that lets you switch between the GC and Redline?

---

I think this is the answer...for a coupe.

This convertible goes to sleep for the winter, there's too much snow!

So I keep thinking if there's a way to add a little Redline 10W-40 or VSOT and make the GC the summer oil.

 

[JR]

i know this is alittle different then your situation, but believe that if the gold gc held up here it would be good for you. I am using the gold gc in a generator that I use for powering my shed and barn. It is a 3500 watt surge coleman with a five-five ohv tecumsuh air-cooled. It was a hot day today. It peaked at 93-95 today. It ran none stop from nine this morning til about an hour and a half ago. These engine run very hot compared to an automotive engine. I have recorded temps close to 325 and five minutes after shutdown tonite I read 293. I have alittle more then sixty hours on this change and it has consumed little to no oil to speak of. not a drop today, even with all the heat and load. It runs a air compressor that put about full load on it. This thing ran off and on all day. As I was sand blasting today. So it got one heck of a work out today. Tomorow is goin to be 99. It is going to be a seven to eight day tomorow. If it holds it groud in this engine and has for several oci's close to 100 hundred hours each it should be more then able to handle the chore of lubin your bemmer.

kc

 

[Terry]

GC green is a hand in glove add pack with the base PAO. I assume that gold is similar. RL would not improve that formula.

 

[Terry]

No need to mix GC green or Gold with Redline. They are indeed completely different theories of formulation. More harm to the GC than the RL.

GC is a higher end of the spectrum SAE 30. i.e "thicker" on its own.

GC is a oil that can give better MPG and not be a SAE40, protecting as well or better than the "thicker" oils.

kc, I agree with you, In my Kohler 1 lung riding mower engine, GC is working really well. I add a pinch of LC too.. 106 in the shade here in Greenville today. Nice and toasty, a dry heat.

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

Thanks Terry!

So do you feel I can Run GC in the M50 motor for summer?

Or GC with LC-20, or VSOT?

I wish Castrol Germany spec'ed 0W-30, but if Terry says its OK

 

[Terry]

Yes. Use analysis before doctoring GC with anything.

Congrats on the good results with RX.

Terry

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

Thanks Terry!

I am very impressed with the ARX results.

I'm thinking about running 6 oz of ARX in the automatic trans for 1000 miles and then run fresh Castrol Dexron III ( H ) fluid with Lubegard red.

I've already done the normal filter service and complete Castrol Dexron III fluid change. But I wonder if a litle bit more cleaning might help.

I've thought of using synthetic Dexron III form Mobil 1 or Redline, but I've also thought about waiting for Dexron V.

Well F1 from France is about to start, so laptops down!

Paul

 

[Terry]

Paul, After the Auto-RX cleaning of the AT, For the absolute best syn ATF give Mola a email ring before using anything else.

His chemistries are way ahead of most that I am aware of. In add/base composition and formulation theory.

F1, vroom vroom 17,000 RPM....

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Terry:
Paul, After the Auto-RX cleaning of the AT, For the absolute best syn ATF give Mola a email ring before using anything else.

His chemistries are way ahead of most that I am aware of. In add/base composition and formulation theory.

F1, vroom vroom 17,000 RPM....

---

I'll check Mola...I'm waiting for some of his MTL-R to arrive.

F1's hitting 20,000 RPM vroom, vroom, vroom

 

[harrydog]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Terry:
No need to mix GC green or Gold with Redline. They are indeed completely different theories of formulation. More harm to the GC than the RL.

---

I have 5 qts of Gold GC and 1 qt of Redline 20w50 in my Subaru engine right now, just because I wanted to use the single bottle of 20w50 Redline that I had on my shelf.
Are you saying this could actually be harmful? I planned to leave it in for 5,000 miles.

 

[Terry]

harrydog, I don't know "exactly" what gold GC is since we did not strip it down to parade rest like the green GC. Like many things here.. many ASSUME it is similar.

No, you will not harm anything for a 5000 mile run in the sube but the mix is chemically not complimentary IF gold is like green.

Like everything else in life, the people who think every lubricant is basically the same are wrong. And those that chew their fingernails if they sneezed pulling a oil sample ( fearing water contamination) are equally just as wrong.

Oil analysis is a low cost viable accurate alternative to sweating those kinds of things.

It will tell you if we are over the edge with a problem regardless of chemistry mix and or mechanical issues.

In your case for that duration you are not.

Technical point is that the add pack ester EP component that can not be see in normal spectro in GC green is some kick buttocks stuff and dumping a qt of a POE based oil with a load of traditional ZDDP with Moly in it will not optimize the good old green, Pscholte oil....