household battery octane rating

[huffmuds9320]

I used to like playing with remote control cars. Since they are powered by batteries, I kind of relate batteries to gas. At the gas station we all know they have regular, plus, and premium. So in terms of batteries, I made up a similar grade system.

Regular = heavy duty (carbon zinc?)
Plus = alkaline (Duracell, Energizer, etc.)
Premium = higher grade alkaline (Duracell Ultra, Energizer E squared)

As you step up to each grade, cost goes up just like gas.

Rechargeables like NiCd(Nickel Cadmium) and NiMH(Nickel Metal Hydride) are like alternative fuels such as E85, methanol, butane, etc.

Digital cameras would be premium required, while cd players would be premium recommended. I had a digital camera and tried putting in those heavy duty batteries and it already says battery low. Clocks I usually put in those heavy duty ones since they don't drain much, putting in premium is a waste.

 

[brianl703]

Batteries can be rated by capacity in amp-hours and also in terms of internal resistance (how much current they can supply).

As I recall, carbon-zinc batteries have a comparatively high internal resistance and so aren't very well suited to high current draw loads.

On the other hand, rechargeable batteries have a very low resistance and this is why they'll heat the metal up hot enough to burn if you short-circuit them.

 

[JHZR2]

look at li-ion batteries for about as good performance as you can get.

look for rigoni plots of battery performance to decide what you need.

JMH

 

[jmacmaster]

I've used numerous brands and types of batteries for clocks, flashlights, toys, etc. I've found that the best all-around and longest lacking battery is the Duracell copper and black colored alkaline battery. That's all I buy.

 

[PandaBear]

quote:

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the best all-around and longest lacking battery is the Duracell

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you mean the longest lasting? or longest lacking?

i'd love to use Li-ion / Li-pol in everything, but you need to use a charge controller in there to prevent permanent damage. For the usual sizes on low tech devices (non-processor controlled electronics), NiMH seems to be the best.

I would never use a lead acid in anything nowadays unless it came with the device initially (like TV remote) and use practically no power.

 

[JHZR2]

lol have you ever seen an Li-ion in a runaway reaction??? NASTY!

JMH

 

[Pablo]

quote:

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I would never use a lead acid in anything nowadays unless it came with the device initially (like TV remote)

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Gotta get me one of those!

 

[OriginHacker21]

In my uses Duracell has always outlasted everything. Rayovac has always been the weakest/soonest to die. The ener bunny second, and Duracell has gone far beyond that. My little desk clock lasted 7 months with 2 AA Energizers. It went over a year on Duracell.

Never used any of the other battery types.

As for remote cars... All those cheapy brands didn't even last half as long as name brands. I don't know why people buy those.

 

[jmacmaster]

"longest lacking"

Great misspell. I just tried to edit it to "longest lasting", but was informed that the time during which that message could be edited had elapsed.

 

[brianl703]

quote:

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I would never use a lead acid in anything nowadays unless it came with the device initially (like TV remote) and use practically no power.

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Lead acid batteries, like (correct me if I'm wrong) lithium-ion batteries, can only be used in devices which originally came with that type of battery.

I'm not sure much equipment (that the average customer would be buying) besides UPS systems use lead-acid batteries these days.

Did you perhaps mean carbon-zinc batteries?