Installed the clamps yesterday and no leakage overnight. I'll see how they hold up.
Hose clamps that won't leak in cold weather
- Thread starter brianl703
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Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I just don't know how the shops get by doing a job when they can't re-tighten the hose clamps? I did some work in a shop many years ago.
Never saw the vehicles come back. But that doesn't mean everything was A OK? Everything I do now I re-tighten at least once.
If you look at the parking lots it seems almost all cars lose something! Wonder if that's the cause of some of the leaks?
I just don't know how the shops get by doing a job when they can't re-tighten the hose clamps? I did some work in a shop many years ago.
Never saw the vehicles come back. But that doesn't mean everything was A OK? Everything I do now I re-tighten at least once.
If you look at the parking lots it seems almost all cars lose something! Wonder if that's the cause of some of the leaks?
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Are those constant-tension hose clamps any good?
My Crown Vic starts leaking from both ends of the upper radiator hose whenever it gets cold (15-20 degrees) overnight. The constant-tension hose clamps with the spring on the worm drive bolt are supposed to be the solution to the problem.
Yes, I've tried tightening the hose clamps that are on it now. Doesn't help. NAPA has the constant tension clamps, and they also have T-bolt clamps.
Which would you use to solve this problem?
(There is a distinct possibility that the hose clamps on it now are garbage, because one of them started stripping out and I wasn't cranking on it very hard..)
I'd try the constant tension hose clamps. It's worth a shot. The best OEM hose clamps I see are made by BMW. You can swing by a dealer (if there'e one close) and buy a few. I use them on every vehicle I service.
Are those constant-tension hose clamps any good?
My Crown Vic starts leaking from both ends of the upper radiator hose whenever it gets cold (15-20 degrees) overnight. The constant-tension hose clamps with the spring on the worm drive bolt are supposed to be the solution to the problem.
Yes, I've tried tightening the hose clamps that are on it now. Doesn't help. NAPA has the constant tension clamps, and they also have T-bolt clamps.
Which would you use to solve this problem?
(There is a distinct possibility that the hose clamps on it now are garbage, because one of them started stripping out and I wasn't cranking on it very hard..)
I'd try the constant tension hose clamps. It's worth a shot. The best OEM hose clamps I see are made by BMW. You can swing by a dealer (if there'e one close) and buy a few. I use them on every vehicle I service.
Once I bought the special tool for them, I love the spring clamps that manufacturers use. Never have a leak.
(And the advice to check the hose bib is good- most of the things I have bought that have them nearly always show some inconsistencies in the casting. The little plastic or metal seams don't line up exactly when they are cast and leave a convenient path for fluid to leak out of. I always go over them with a file and make sure they are mostly circular. And on existing parts, there is almost always some little piece of crud or lost hose material that needs to get filed off, or there will be a leak.)
If worm-type clamps are preferred, the kinds where the edges are rounded are supposed to be better, so they don't cut into the hose material.
Regardless, I've always thought that the hose material is chosen so that when the correct tension is put on a clamp, the hose material will conform to any changes in temperature and not cause cold-weather leaks. In my experience, if the hose and clamp and bib are good, there is a pretty good margin between "too tight" and "leaking". You have to clamp down pretty darn hard on a good hose to be able to ruin it.
(And the advice to check the hose bib is good- most of the things I have bought that have them nearly always show some inconsistencies in the casting. The little plastic or metal seams don't line up exactly when they are cast and leave a convenient path for fluid to leak out of. I always go over them with a file and make sure they are mostly circular. And on existing parts, there is almost always some little piece of crud or lost hose material that needs to get filed off, or there will be a leak.)
If worm-type clamps are preferred, the kinds where the edges are rounded are supposed to be better, so they don't cut into the hose material.
Regardless, I've always thought that the hose material is chosen so that when the correct tension is put on a clamp, the hose material will conform to any changes in temperature and not cause cold-weather leaks. In my experience, if the hose and clamp and bib are good, there is a pretty good margin between "too tight" and "leaking". You have to clamp down pretty darn hard on a good hose to be able to ruin it.
Spring clamps are the best IMHO. They give the proper tension to the hose.
One big pointer with clamping onto a plastic radiator outlet is NOT to over tighten. I've seen idiot mechanics torque down on those plastic radiator outlet tubes and fracture them . They don't need that much pressure to secure the hose. Thats one big reason I like the spring clamps. They're idiot proof when it comes to proper tensioning.
One big pointer with clamping onto a plastic radiator outlet is NOT to over tighten. I've seen idiot mechanics torque down on those plastic radiator outlet tubes and fracture them . They don't need that much pressure to secure the hose. Thats one big reason I like the spring clamps. They're idiot proof when it comes to proper tensioning.
I like the spring clamps too. No one has mentioned lubricating the hose under the clamp to allow the rubber to compress more uniformly. I just use slightly soapy water.
This type of leak is way too common. It doesn't seem to occur on new vehicles from the factory as those spring type clamps they use don't really have that much holding power, yet, they never leak?? When changing out a hose all surfaces s/b taken down to shiney-like new-condition. The oldtimers trick is to put some INDIANHEAD gasket cement on the surface that the hose slips on and believe me it will never leak and re-torques will not be necessary. If you're keeping the vehicle use the good silicon hoses.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1020 gives an overview of the pros/cons of what is available. Penske is using heat shrink technology on all the freightliners in their fleet.
Originally Posted By: H2GURU
This type of leak is way too common. It doesn't seem to occur on new vehicles from the factory as those spring type clamps they use don't really have that much holding power, yet, they never leak?? When changing out a hose all surfaces s/b taken down to shiney-like new-condition. The oldtimers trick is to put some INDIANHEAD gasket cement on the surface that the hose slips on and believe me it will never leak and re-torques will not be necessary. If you're keeping the vehicle use the good silicon hoses.
I guess I'm an old timer. I mentioned that above. I only use it if there is a problem a clamp won't resolve.
This type of leak is way too common. It doesn't seem to occur on new vehicles from the factory as those spring type clamps they use don't really have that much holding power, yet, they never leak?? When changing out a hose all surfaces s/b taken down to shiney-like new-condition. The oldtimers trick is to put some INDIANHEAD gasket cement on the surface that the hose slips on and believe me it will never leak and re-torques will not be necessary. If you're keeping the vehicle use the good silicon hoses.
I guess I'm an old timer. I mentioned that above. I only use it if there is a problem a clamp won't resolve.
Constant tension clamps expand and contract with engine heat which keeps them from coming loose over time reducing damage to the hose. A leak developed in one of my screw clamped heater hoses after a month so I’m pulling the screw clamps off and replacing them with constant tension clamps spring from eBay. I suspect the car companies switched to them because it reduced warranty claims.
Why aren’t these clamps easier to find at auto stores now that most car companies have switched to them?
I use RTV blue when I need to lubricate the hose joint.
Why aren’t these clamps easier to find at auto stores now that most car companies have switched to them?
I use RTV blue when I need to lubricate the hose joint.
T-bolt clamp perhaps?
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Installed the clamps yesterday and no leakage overnight. I'll see how they hold up.
They've been working fine. No leakage, no coolant loss.
Installed the clamps yesterday and no leakage overnight. I'll see how they hold up.
They've been working fine. No leakage, no coolant loss.
^^^ Glad to see it's working out for you. A little old timer's trick I used to do was to use Permatex #2 on the inside of the hose. Only drawback is you have to cut the hose to get it off next time. I also like the GM type spring clamps, but in some locations they're a PITA to remove and reinstall. Unless the clamp has easy access, I will use the worm screw typr.
Sealer is one way to insure that you won't have a comeback.
Not usually necessary, but a valuable tip.
If you have one shot at a hard to get at hose and are concerned about it leaking, sealer can be smart.
Maye a heater nipple is out of round or corroded - something like that.
Not usually necessary, but a valuable tip.
If you have one shot at a hard to get at hose and are concerned about it leaking, sealer can be smart.
Maye a heater nipple is out of round or corroded - something like that.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I just don't know how the shops get by doing a job when they can't re-tighten the hose clamps? I did some work in a shop many years ago.
I'll tell you how: we mechanics just tighten the clamps unreasonably tight. Personally, I squirt some oil into the worm gear so that I can get the clamp stupid-tight without binding. I put them tight enough to distort the hose some, but not tight enough to cut into it or strip the worm gear. It's NOT ideal, and I don't do this on my own vehicles. But if you're using cheap worm-gear clamps, this is pretty much the only way to send a vehicle away from the shop and be reasonably sure that radiator hoses and such won't leak in cold weather.
Regarding the OP, I prefer spring-clamps when available- the ones made of a flat band of steel- NOT round wire. They ARE more difficult to install in many cases, but as long as they're in good condition and of the correct size, they'll avoid leaks and hose damage. I suspect that size is the reason why most shops don't use these clamps. The thickness of the hose is important with these clamps- it's not uncommon for aftermarket hoses to be a different thickness (and hence outer diameter) than the OEM hose. This makes it difficult to select the correct spring-clamp for the application, and can make re-using OEM spring clamps an iffy proposition. Whereas a worm-gear clamp can simply be cranked down tight and you're done. It's a trade-off between convenience and performance.
I agree with mechtech on the sealer issue. On my own vehicles, I usually put a thin layer of RTV on coolant hose nipples- which not only helps the hose seal, but ensures that it will come off without a fight next time I work on it. On customers' equipment, I usually don't use sealant- because it usually isn't necessary and some would consider it unprofessional (this really isn't an accepted practice- more of an improvisation). But in some cases (like radiator hoses) where a hose has to seal on a rusty or roughly-cast hose nipple, I'll put a thin layer of RTV on to help the hose seal. Even oil or grease will help in a pinch- the lubrication will help the hose clamp evenly and conform to the nipple.
I just don't know how the shops get by doing a job when they can't re-tighten the hose clamps? I did some work in a shop many years ago.
I'll tell you how: we mechanics just tighten the clamps unreasonably tight. Personally, I squirt some oil into the worm gear so that I can get the clamp stupid-tight without binding. I put them tight enough to distort the hose some, but not tight enough to cut into it or strip the worm gear. It's NOT ideal, and I don't do this on my own vehicles. But if you're using cheap worm-gear clamps, this is pretty much the only way to send a vehicle away from the shop and be reasonably sure that radiator hoses and such won't leak in cold weather.
Regarding the OP, I prefer spring-clamps when available- the ones made of a flat band of steel- NOT round wire. They ARE more difficult to install in many cases, but as long as they're in good condition and of the correct size, they'll avoid leaks and hose damage. I suspect that size is the reason why most shops don't use these clamps. The thickness of the hose is important with these clamps- it's not uncommon for aftermarket hoses to be a different thickness (and hence outer diameter) than the OEM hose. This makes it difficult to select the correct spring-clamp for the application, and can make re-using OEM spring clamps an iffy proposition. Whereas a worm-gear clamp can simply be cranked down tight and you're done. It's a trade-off between convenience and performance.
I agree with mechtech on the sealer issue. On my own vehicles, I usually put a thin layer of RTV on coolant hose nipples- which not only helps the hose seal, but ensures that it will come off without a fight next time I work on it. On customers' equipment, I usually don't use sealant- because it usually isn't necessary and some would consider it unprofessional (this really isn't an accepted practice- more of an improvisation). But in some cases (like radiator hoses) where a hose has to seal on a rusty or roughly-cast hose nipple, I'll put a thin layer of RTV on to help the hose seal. Even oil or grease will help in a pinch- the lubrication will help the hose clamp evenly and conform to the nipple.
I use #2 Permatex on the eroded aluminum nipples on my 22 yr old BMWs. I use my 1/4" nut drvers and all sorts of extensions an U-joints to reach some of them. For the easy ones, I wish I could easily buy torsion spring clamps and the tool I would use them. Even so, a pint of coolant disappears evry 2 months. I am not concerned.
Originally Posted By: brianl703
I went to NAPA and got the constant-torque hose clamps. For $6 each I sure hope these work better. They do look like they're worth $6-wider, looks much more heavy-duty.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7051507_0254113330
I'll be installing these without removing the hose. What I thought was a spring is actually 5 washers. I guess they act like a spring.
When using screw clamps, I prefer this design. They protect the hose from being cut into as readily as with cheaper clamps, and have built-in spring washers to keep tension more constant. Not really necessary, but definitely a step up from your average screw-clamp.
Unfortunately, they're expensive and hard to find.
I went to NAPA and got the constant-torque hose clamps. For $6 each I sure hope these work better. They do look like they're worth $6-wider, looks much more heavy-duty.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7051507_0254113330
I'll be installing these without removing the hose. What I thought was a spring is actually 5 washers. I guess they act like a spring.
When using screw clamps, I prefer this design. They protect the hose from being cut into as readily as with cheaper clamps, and have built-in spring washers to keep tension more constant. Not really necessary, but definitely a step up from your average screw-clamp.
Unfortunately, they're expensive and hard to find.
Expensive, yes. I had no trouble finding them at NAPA, though.
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