Honda sm 0w-20 (Idemitsu), 7000 mi, 2004 Accord I4
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Originally Posted By: k24a4
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Thanks for posting.
I don't know what to make of your numbers, gpshumway. It must still be break-in numbers. All the I4 Honda motors I've seen have very low wear metals, usually single digit or low double digit.
My honda HATED the Idemitsu subaru 0w20 - the last case i bought was definitely a change in formulation from the first batch. Differing # and plant code, etc. I tried 4 combos and only with the LAST one running does the engine run what I know as proper. Smooth, powerful and low noise. QS defy 5w20 and the big one - WIX 71356 filter. The honda(fram) filter is terrible. Loose it. The car ran OK with a purolator, but, only with the wix was it 100% no issues. Its not oil thicknes either, as i tied an experiment adding 1L 10w40 M21 racing synthetic to the 0w20. No difference in noise except a tiny bit less deep knocking going up steep hills with hot oil. these engine are prone to carboning up (which can cause zero deck piston interference knock) with mild (economy) driving so run it wide open in the 4- 5700 rpm range a few times a week for a good five seconds to keep it clean. these engines are in a near RACE TUNE and need to be excercised and cropped HARD.
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Thanks for posting.
I don't know what to make of your numbers, gpshumway. It must still be break-in numbers. All the I4 Honda motors I've seen have very low wear metals, usually single digit or low double digit.
My honda HATED the Idemitsu subaru 0w20 - the last case i bought was definitely a change in formulation from the first batch. Differing # and plant code, etc. I tried 4 combos and only with the LAST one running does the engine run what I know as proper. Smooth, powerful and low noise. QS defy 5w20 and the big one - WIX 71356 filter. The honda(fram) filter is terrible. Loose it. The car ran OK with a purolator, but, only with the wix was it 100% no issues. Its not oil thicknes either, as i tied an experiment adding 1L 10w40 M21 racing synthetic to the 0w20. No difference in noise except a tiny bit less deep knocking going up steep hills with hot oil. these engine are prone to carboning up (which can cause zero deck piston interference knock) with mild (economy) driving so run it wide open in the 4- 5700 rpm range a few times a week for a good five seconds to keep it clean. these engines are in a near RACE TUNE and need to be excercised and cropped HARD.
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Thanks for posting. I have a bunch of this oil, so it's nice to see that it's holding up well. I simply wouldn't read too much into low double-digit aluminum numbers from a single UOA. They're still well within the acceptable levels, and it's a single data point.
The important things, at least to me, is that the oil seemed to stay in grade and the TBN-retention was good. Keep in mind that starting TBN is quite low with this oil (5.2-5.9 depending on who's testing it), and the drop in typically non-linear--so I think this oil has plenty of service life left. I did 7.8K on my second run, and I'm not hesitant at all to run it for 10K (I will on the next run, which will be in warmer weather with more highway miles).
The important things, at least to me, is that the oil seemed to stay in grade and the TBN-retention was good. Keep in mind that starting TBN is quite low with this oil (5.2-5.9 depending on who's testing it), and the drop in typically non-linear--so I think this oil has plenty of service life left. I did 7.8K on my second run, and I'm not hesitant at all to run it for 10K (I will on the next run, which will be in warmer weather with more highway miles).
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
My honda HATED the Idemitsu subaru 0w20 - the last case i bought was definitely a change in formulation from the first batch. Differing # and plant code, etc. I tried 4 combos and only with the LAST one running does the engine run what I know as proper. Smooth, powerful and low noise. QS defy 5w20 and the big one - WIX 71356 filter. The honda(fram) filter is terrible. Loose it. The car ran OK with a purolator, but, only with the wix was it 100% no issues. Its not oil thicknes either, as i tied an experiment adding 1L 10w40 M21 racing synthetic to the 0w20. No difference in noise except a tiny bit less deep knocking going up steep hills with hot oil. these engine are prone to carboning up (which can cause zero deck piston interference knock) with mild (economy) driving so run it wide open in the 4- 5700 rpm range a few times a week for a good five seconds to keep it clean. these engines are in a near RACE TUNE and need to be excercised and cropped HARD.
Interesting. Thanks for posting that. Your engine is of course a different series from mine. I'm not sure the common and different design elements between the L-series and R-series.
I can't say I've had the same experience. My R18 seems to run very well on the Idemitsu oil, at least as well as on the new C-P Honda 0w20, and not noticeably noisier than the factory fill. It's a bit hard to tell though, all engines make a bit more noise in the winter around here and I changed the oil in late February. I have the later SM version which has the API doughnut on the bottle.
I used the OEM filter for the first change in the car and have a PureOne on it now. Again, no substantial operational differences between the three oils and two different filters.
My car gets a fitting workout regularly in addition to goosing the fuel with a little Redline SI-1 at each fill. I may switch to FP+ though.
My honda HATED the Idemitsu subaru 0w20 - the last case i bought was definitely a change in formulation from the first batch. Differing # and plant code, etc. I tried 4 combos and only with the LAST one running does the engine run what I know as proper. Smooth, powerful and low noise. QS defy 5w20 and the big one - WIX 71356 filter. The honda(fram) filter is terrible. Loose it. The car ran OK with a purolator, but, only with the wix was it 100% no issues. Its not oil thicknes either, as i tied an experiment adding 1L 10w40 M21 racing synthetic to the 0w20. No difference in noise except a tiny bit less deep knocking going up steep hills with hot oil. these engine are prone to carboning up (which can cause zero deck piston interference knock) with mild (economy) driving so run it wide open in the 4- 5700 rpm range a few times a week for a good five seconds to keep it clean. these engines are in a near RACE TUNE and need to be excercised and cropped HARD.
Interesting. Thanks for posting that. Your engine is of course a different series from mine. I'm not sure the common and different design elements between the L-series and R-series.
I can't say I've had the same experience. My R18 seems to run very well on the Idemitsu oil, at least as well as on the new C-P Honda 0w20, and not noticeably noisier than the factory fill. It's a bit hard to tell though, all engines make a bit more noise in the winter around here and I changed the oil in late February. I have the later SM version which has the API doughnut on the bottle.
I used the OEM filter for the first change in the car and have a PureOne on it now. Again, no substantial operational differences between the three oils and two different filters.
My car gets a fitting workout regularly in addition to goosing the fuel with a little Redline SI-1 at each fill. I may switch to FP+ though.
Because of the feedback here I'll do at least three consecutive oil changes with the Honda SM 0w-20, which I have on hand, when I'm finished with the Shell 5w-20 currently in the sump, in deference to all you data mongers out there. ;-) All four changes will be analysed by ALS.
thanks for the UOA. I thought the moly in Honda SM 0w20 shall be somewhere north of 800ppm?
Originally Posted By: gogozy
thanks for the UOA. I thought the moly in Honda SM 0w20 shall be somewhere north of 800ppm?
You are correct: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2118300&page=1
Not sure where half of it went.
thanks for the UOA. I thought the moly in Honda SM 0w20 shall be somewhere north of 800ppm?
You are correct: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2118300&page=1
Not sure where half of it went.
thanks for the link, the read out for other additives looks very close, except moly. perhaps Honda change the formula in between 2009 to 2011? if this is the case, I hope the Viscosity index stay the same as 2009 version.
Originally Posted By: 72te27
Is there another way to post the op's report? On my Ipad, only the identifying info for the report shows, no data at all.
Same thing happens on my phone. You cannot scroll within the "code", ie grey, box. Only way to scroll is via computer, afaik.
Is there another way to post the op's report? On my Ipad, only the identifying info for the report shows, no data at all.
Same thing happens on my phone. You cannot scroll within the "code", ie grey, box. Only way to scroll is via computer, afaik.
Yes they do and we both know that uoa is not a good choice to compare one oil against anothe. But you can see with your own eyes the tbn difference in about 700 miles or so and you know the difference in price re. one against the other.
Originally Posted By: Garak
What was the OCI on the previous PYB? Those numbers look pretty nice for a "mere conventional."
Originally Posted By: Garak
What was the OCI on the previous PYB? Those numbers look pretty nice for a "mere conventional."
Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
Yes they do and we both know that uoa is not a good choice to compare one oil against anothe. But you can see with your own eyes the tbn difference in about 700 miles or so and you know the difference in price re. one against the other.
Yup, the TBN was what I noticed first.
Yes they do and we both know that uoa is not a good choice to compare one oil against anothe. But you can see with your own eyes the tbn difference in about 700 miles or so and you know the difference in price re. one against the other.
Yup, the TBN was what I noticed first.
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