And again, check you valve retainers! The best oil in the world won't do you any good if you drop a valve!
Honda S2000 - Oil Recommendations & Cam Lobe wear
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Originally Posted by StevieC
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
Any HTO 06 will be fine.
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Any HTO 06 will be fine.
Why should he chase an oil designed for an old Acura turbo engine?
The F20C doesn't need HTO-6, and never has. Literally ANY 10W-30 will do fine, per the OM and FSM. I personally would run an xW-40.
Any HTO 06 will be fine.
Why should he chase an oil designed for an old Acura turbo engine?
The F20C doesn't need HTO-6, and never has. Literally ANY 10W-30 will do fine, per the OM and FSM. I personally would run an xW-40.
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
Why not though? It's $9 and can be used for 3-4 oil changes. I'd take that over a $2 filter with an unknown efficiency rating.
Originally Posted by StevieC
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
Why not though? It's $9 and can be used for 3-4 oil changes. I'd take that over a $2 filter with an unknown efficiency rating.
Couple photos of mine. 187k miles. Head was rebuilt about 30k ago. Previous owner downshifted into 2nd on the highway.
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
I use a Fram Ultra if that is what you are implying and to me efficiency is something I want. I understand that in the case of that Toyota it doesn't seem to matter but to me it does. Further I intend to do longer OCI's so I want as much junk in the oil out of there between changes. That's me though.
Originally Posted by StevieC
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
I use a Fram Ultra if that is what you are implying and to me efficiency is something I want. I understand that in the case of that Toyota it doesn't seem to matter but to me it does. Further I intend to do longer OCI's so I want as much junk in the oil out of there between changes. That's me though.
What does the manual spec? I had a 2001 S2K before my Elise and it was a great car...enjoy.
I seem to remember that the ROW manual recommended 5w-40, The 2001 US manual recommends 10w-30 from -20C up, and 5w-40 for all temps. It also says "...10w-30 recommended for optimum fuel economy.....may use 5w-40 ...if temperature goes below 0F/-20C". Me, I used Redline 5w-40 and OEM filters. I made the decision to potentially sacrifice some economy for the protection of the heavier oil. I was doing some car control clinics and HPDE's at the time.
I seem to remember that the ROW manual recommended 5w-40, The 2001 US manual recommends 10w-30 from -20C up, and 5w-40 for all temps. It also says "...10w-30 recommended for optimum fuel economy.....may use 5w-40 ...if temperature goes below 0F/-20C". Me, I used Redline 5w-40 and OEM filters. I made the decision to potentially sacrifice some economy for the protection of the heavier oil. I was doing some car control clinics and HPDE's at the time.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Any HTO 06 will be fine.
Why should he chase an oil designed for an old Acura turbo engine?
The F20C doesn't need HTO-6, and never has. Literally ANY 10W-30 will do fine, per the OM and FSM. I personally would run an xW-40.
High tempeture deposits,just own experience with honda engines. many hot spots in a honda engine.
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Any HTO 06 will be fine.
Why should he chase an oil designed for an old Acura turbo engine?
The F20C doesn't need HTO-6, and never has. Literally ANY 10W-30 will do fine, per the OM and FSM. I personally would run an xW-40.
High tempeture deposits,just own experience with honda engines. many hot spots in a honda engine.
Originally Posted by rsalan
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
Why not though? It's $9 and can be used for 3-4 oil changes. I'd take that over a $2 filter with an unknown efficiency rating.
It really does not matter.
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
The best part is the oil filter. Now there are members who will only use a filter which advertises a cherry picked best results 99% single pass efficiency. It really does not matter as long the oil flows and does not starve the engine.
Why not though? It's $9 and can be used for 3-4 oil changes. I'd take that over a $2 filter with an unknown efficiency rating.
It really does not matter.
I disagree. Extra metal floating around and insolubles that a higher efficiency filter catches can prevent excessive wear and sludge formation. Is it needed say in the Toyota I cited above? Maybe not. Can we definitely say we don't need it? I don't think so and given the cost is so inexpensive and it can be run for so long why not just run one for whatever benefit it can provide?
Originally Posted by StevieC
I disagree. Extra metal floating around and insolubles that a higher efficiency filter catches can prevent excessive wear and sludge formation. Is it needed say in the Toyota I cited above? Maybe not. Can we definitely say we don't need it? I don't think so and given the cost is so inexpensive and it can be run for so long why not just run one for whatever benefit it can provide?
Exactly. You're getting a better quality product, that does a better job, for the same overall price. Why not?
Some of us want our engines to run at 250K mi the same way it did at 5 mi. I don't think having less crap floating in the oil throughout its life would hurt.
I disagree. Extra metal floating around and insolubles that a higher efficiency filter catches can prevent excessive wear and sludge formation. Is it needed say in the Toyota I cited above? Maybe not. Can we definitely say we don't need it? I don't think so and given the cost is so inexpensive and it can be run for so long why not just run one for whatever benefit it can provide?
Exactly. You're getting a better quality product, that does a better job, for the same overall price. Why not?
Some of us want our engines to run at 250K mi the same way it did at 5 mi. I don't think having less crap floating in the oil throughout its life would hurt.
Originally Posted by rsalan
Originally Posted by StevieC
I disagree. Extra metal floating around and insolubles that a higher efficiency filter catches can prevent excessive wear and sludge formation. Is it needed say in the Toyota I cited above? Maybe not. Can we definitely say we don't need it? I don't think so and given the cost is so inexpensive and it can be run for so long why not just run one for whatever benefit it can provide?
Exactly. You're getting a better quality product, that does a better job, for the same overall price. Why not?
Some of us want our engines to run at 250K mi the same way it did at 5 mi. I don't think having less crap floating in the oil throughout its life would hurt.
Your attempting to do the physically impossible. No engine will run the same at 250K miles as it did at 5 not would you want it to because it's still breaking. Not to mention oil filters do not guarantee a engine will not wear.
Originally Posted by StevieC
I disagree. Extra metal floating around and insolubles that a higher efficiency filter catches can prevent excessive wear and sludge formation. Is it needed say in the Toyota I cited above? Maybe not. Can we definitely say we don't need it? I don't think so and given the cost is so inexpensive and it can be run for so long why not just run one for whatever benefit it can provide?
Exactly. You're getting a better quality product, that does a better job, for the same overall price. Why not?
Some of us want our engines to run at 250K mi the same way it did at 5 mi. I don't think having less crap floating in the oil throughout its life would hurt.
Your attempting to do the physically impossible. No engine will run the same at 250K miles as it did at 5 not would you want it to because it's still breaking. Not to mention oil filters do not guarantee a engine will not wear.
Originally Posted by SR5
However the Castrol Edge 5W30 in Australia is a Euro A3/B4 oil with a higher HTHS (> 3.5 cP) and it's "only" API SL (not SN) which means it doesn't have a limit placed on it's ZDDP level. I hear it has about 1000 ppm Zinc. It's still passes all the API SN quality tests, it's just is above the chemical limit. This SN Vs SL ZDDP limit only applies to 30 grades and below, so not 40 grade oils.
This is all very important to note, especially when looking back at the original 10w-30 recommendation, where it would be a 10w-30 conventional ILSAC meeting the basic spec, versus a 5w-30 A3/B4 one might find now.
However the Castrol Edge 5W30 in Australia is a Euro A3/B4 oil with a higher HTHS (> 3.5 cP) and it's "only" API SL (not SN) which means it doesn't have a limit placed on it's ZDDP level. I hear it has about 1000 ppm Zinc. It's still passes all the API SN quality tests, it's just is above the chemical limit. This SN Vs SL ZDDP limit only applies to 30 grades and below, so not 40 grade oils.
This is all very important to note, especially when looking back at the original 10w-30 recommendation, where it would be a 10w-30 conventional ILSAC meeting the basic spec, versus a 5w-30 A3/B4 one might find now.
I have 145k miles on my '06 S2000 and run it the way it should be ran. High rpm's and I do that in high heat(100F + air temp) I suggest you go to S2ki and look at all the engines that have gone boom.Some go bad at the bearings(spun) some at the pistons(scored cylinder) some just drop a valve for some unknown reason. I run high moly(550+ ppm) with 1200+ ppm ZDDP, and my wear numbers are low for the miles I put on the oil(7000 to 7500 miles)No need to change the oil sooner if its doing its job which is lubricating and protecting from metel to metel contact. At the very least I run Mobil 1 0/40 with a full can of MoS2. For most of the last three years I run 2 qt's of M1 0/50 racing oil(or M1 V-Twin 20/50) and 4 qt's of M1 0/40 with a Baldwin B202 oil filter.
Don't go thin, let the engine warm up(oil temp takes longer to warm than water) before you start to bang on it. Have fun with it because thats what this car is made for.
These engines are very hard to rebuild so take care of the one you have. If you search on S2ki you will find most who try to rebuild their engine, well most don't turn out very good and they have to spend more money on a custom build.
So spend a little extra on a good oil that will let your S live a long life.
I don't know if you can get Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil SAE 10W-40 but it has a ton of anti-friction agents(moly 900, zinc 2200 phosphorous 2600) If your S uses oil like 1 qt. every 1500 miles the Lucas will kill your cat. converter sooner than a oil with less ZDDP in the oil. But if you don't run a cat this is one oil I'd try.
ROD
Don't go thin, let the engine warm up(oil temp takes longer to warm than water) before you start to bang on it. Have fun with it because thats what this car is made for.
These engines are very hard to rebuild so take care of the one you have. If you search on S2ki you will find most who try to rebuild their engine, well most don't turn out very good and they have to spend more money on a custom build.
So spend a little extra on a good oil that will let your S live a long life.
I don't know if you can get Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil SAE 10W-40 but it has a ton of anti-friction agents(moly 900, zinc 2200 phosphorous 2600) If your S uses oil like 1 qt. every 1500 miles the Lucas will kill your cat. converter sooner than a oil with less ZDDP in the oil. But if you don't run a cat this is one oil I'd try.
ROD
No idea why you would run a 44wt(avg.)or 50wt in the s2000 motor. With no consistency in issues I see no reason to go that thick. Much different than a BMW M motor that use the super thick oil.
My cSt is in the 40w range and the S2000 shears down oil very fast. I've seen UOA's that had 10/30 oil(Mobil 1, Amsoil and others) shear down to a 8.4 cSt in under 2000 miles. Any way you cut it, 8.4 is a 20w and the S2000 won't live with a 20w. I have read and seen first hand(not my S) how fast oil can drop its cSt number. So I use oil that will hold up to the demands that this engine puts on it and I hope I won't need a new engine for many miles.Like I said 145k miles(9 years) and going strong.
ROD
ROD
Since this year, i am also a proud owner of a S2000.
I will try this Oil next year: https://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/Product/show/p/ravenol-rsp-racing-super-performance.html
In my eyes, it´s a perfect match for the S2000 engine. HTHS, Viscoity, shear free, additive package. Perfect.
Here is more Info about the USVO line from Ravenol:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4891791/ravenol-usvo-oils#Post4891791
I will try this Oil next year: https://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/Product/show/p/ravenol-rsp-racing-super-performance.html
In my eyes, it´s a perfect match for the S2000 engine. HTHS, Viscoity, shear free, additive package. Perfect.
Here is more Info about the USVO line from Ravenol:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4891791/ravenol-usvo-oils#Post4891791
Originally Posted by ChristianReske
Since this year, i am also a proud owner of a S2000.
I will try this Oil next year: https://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/Product/show/p/ravenol-rsp-racing-super-performance.html
In my eyes, it´s a perfect match for the S2000 engine. HTHS, Viscoity, shear free, additive package. Perfect.
Here is more Info about the USVO line from Ravenol:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4891791/ravenol-usvo-oils#Post4891791
I would not say "shear free" without a UOA after say, 3000 miles(4828k). If you run at high rpm's(4500+) for 30 minutes or more at a time, this gets the oil hot and puts a good load on the oil. My oil starts out as a mid 40w and ends up at a high to middle 30w after 7000 miles.
Run that oil, get a UOA
ROD
Since this year, i am also a proud owner of a S2000.
I will try this Oil next year: https://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/Product/show/p/ravenol-rsp-racing-super-performance.html
In my eyes, it´s a perfect match for the S2000 engine. HTHS, Viscoity, shear free, additive package. Perfect.
Here is more Info about the USVO line from Ravenol:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4891791/ravenol-usvo-oils#Post4891791
I would not say "shear free" without a UOA after say, 3000 miles(4828k). If you run at high rpm's(4500+) for 30 minutes or more at a time, this gets the oil hot and puts a good load on the oil. My oil starts out as a mid 40w and ends up at a high to middle 30w after 7000 miles.
Run that oil, get a UOA
ROD
Think im going to switch to a 40 weight after reading these posts. Problem is, I still have 2x bottles of 10w30 edge at home.
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