Honda Pilot Brake fluid change/flush

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parshisa

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So, there is a ton of write ups and videos online how to do that but they all vary. I guess, my may question/concern is pumping the brake pedal to gemerate pressure/bleed fluid. How do you folls do it?

I have a nice bottle with one way check valve so fluid/air won’t be forced back in when brake pedal is let off.

Share you experience and you’ll get 2 points to your karma.

P.S. this will be my first time doing brake fluid change so don’t judge me too hard
 
If you have a helper, use the 2 person method, closing the bleeder before letting up the pedal. If it's just one person, open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed.
 
I got a pressure adapter for Honda vehicles.

The only way I refresh fluid in any of my vehicles is via a pressure exchange. Easy, one person job that way...

Some rumors that like the PSF, Honda brake fluid may be semi-unique and beneficial to your system.

I got some cheap as an add-on for a discount parts order, but not sure I'd make it a habit personally; haven't looked into the sanctity of Honda brake fluid much though.
 
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
If you have a helper, use the 2 person method, closing the bleeder before letting up the pedal. If it's just one person, open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed.


I have done the solo method -- just crack open the nipple and gravity will push the fluid out. Keeping the reservoir topped off also helps keep the "force" to push the fluid out.

I even have a motive bleeder that I can use to pressurize the reservoir, but most SUV/trucks have enough height difference between the top of the system and the lowest point.
 
I have done the solo method -- just crack open the nipple and gravity will push the fluid out. Keeping the reservoir topped off also helps keep the "force" to push the fluid out.

+1
 
These days I use an enema syringe to suck the fluid out via the bleeder, then push new fluid back in, upwards.

I know gravity works, because I've had the brake fluid leak out via a faulty wheel cylinder, but I can generate more pressure with a syringe, and can cycle in and out to free trapped air, and maybe a bit of sludge.

Pedal pumping is pretty tedious, and runs the risk of over-travel of the master cylinder piston, which can damage seals on an old system.
 
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
If it's just one person, open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed.

This. I never believed it until I tried it, and now regret the wasted years!
 
I have often read that if you use the Two Person Method, you may end up with a leaking Master Cylinder, because
you are moving the Piston where it normally does not go (causing the Seal to get scratched up).

If you don't have a Pressure Bleeder (pressurizes the Fluid Reservoir),
I would try Gravity Bleeding first
If your fine with how long it takes, NO possible harm to your Master Cylinder.

I Pressure Bleed - I'm happy.
My Nephew Gravity Bleeds - he's happy.

Suggestion: If you suspect the fluid in the Reservoir is dirty/contaminated,
use the Turkey Baster Method to exchange it first.
That way your NOT sending all that dirty fluid thru the system.

And as you may have read, start at the farthest brakes first.
 
There are plenty of threads here that describe solo brake bleeding simply using vinyl tubing, a catch bottle, AND pumping the pedal yourself.

Check this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ag-Q_lP0dOk or start at minute 6 here to see the method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc

Like many, I do these additional precautions: I apply silicone grease around the bleed nipple threads (zero air admittance) and I use a wood block underneath the pedal to prevent pressing the pedal to the floor. I also have the vinyl tube go up from the bleed nipple so that any air bubbles travel up and away. Heed the warnings about brake fluid being a paint remover.


Follow the service manual for bleed sequence. If not available, many people seem to get by bleeding from farthest to closest corner sequence.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
There are plenty of threads here that describe solo brake bleeding simply using vinyl tubing, a catch bottle, AND pumping the pedal yourself.

Check this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ag-Q_lP0dOk or start at minute 6 here to see the method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc

Like many, I do these additional precautions: I apply silicone grease around the bleed nipple threads (zero air admittance) and I use a wood block underneath the pedal to prevent pressing the pedal to the floor. I also have the vinyl tube go up from the bleed nipple so that any air bubbles travel up and away. Heed the warnings about brake fluid being a paint remover.


Follow the service manual for bleed sequence. If not available, many people seem to get by bleeding from farthest to closest corner sequence.


I use the vinyl tubing with a 2L bottle as a catch can. It works great. I can bleed all four wheels by myself in maybe 30-45 minutes if I'm taking my time. With the tubing you can see the color of the brake fluid go from a brownish color to clear. Very satisfying to watch!
 

Here's the procedure that Honda recommends for the Pilot. I guess my main question is how this correlates with the possibility of damaging and leaking master cylinder?
confused.gif
 
I just did it to my Odyssey and I use the store brand DOT3 not the Honda genuine fluid.

What I did pay more attention to is cleaning the mesh filter with brake cleaner before filling fresh fluid. There was quite a bit of green-ish and grey-ish deposit in it.

I did it just like how most people say, start with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder and work my way to the one that's nearest. I probably flush a bit more fluid than I need to but the fluid is not that expensive.

It took around two hours but it was worth it. I can immediately feel the difference.

My 2 cents would be when you pump the brakes, try to use all the muscles on your leg.
 
Originally Posted By: newbe46

What I did pay more attention to is cleaning the mesh filter with brake cleaner before filling fresh fluid. There was quite a bit of green-ish and grey-ish deposit in it.



Never found anything that needed brake cleaner, and this isn't one either.

Brake cleaner tends to have fairly aggressive volatile organic solvents in it, probably not rubber friendly and not something I'd want in my brake system.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Never found anything that needed brake cleaner, and this isn't one either.

Brake cleaner tends to have fairly aggressive volatile organic solvents in it, probably not rubber friendly and not something I'd want in my brake system.


Whoops. I did let it air dried for a couple minutes before putting it back to the reservoir. Just to make myself feel better now.
 
I use this adapter for Honda’s with my Branick bleeder. Zero mess, fits perfectly - even on older ones prior to 2014. You may be able to use it with a Motive if you change out the fitting.
 
You didn't do the rear calipers?

With the 2man method, what is that about pushing the brake pedal too far damaging the cylinder seal? It doesn't quite make sense to me on how this is even possible
 
I've always done the 2 person method. Pump, Pump, Pump, firm pressure on the pedal with person 1, person 2 opens the bleeder slightly until the pedal falls to the floor and is held there until the bleeder is closed. Do this a couple of times per wheel filling the master cylinder with fluid in-between.

Every couple of years with a quality properly rated DOT fluid for your vehicle and you are golden.
 
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