Thank you for posting the link to the PDF, Critic. Interesting that it says not to re-use the motor mount bolts, that's a new one on me. Are those TTY bolts? At 33 ft-lb that doesn't sound like TTY torque. Also interesting that it mentions removing the rocker arm oil pressure sensor to get to the tensioner bolts. I'm assuming that's part of the VCM system, so if the PDF is for a 2016 I'm assuming a 2015 has one too. Would Permatex #2 suffice for the Hondabond liquid gasket?
Honda J35 timing belt question
- Thread starter Dave Sherman
- Start date
The 2016 engine is different; that one is the DI version.
The motor mount bolts have always been one time use per Honda. The threads on the bracket do like to strip out easily; I sometimes I have to timesert those holes. I keep a jack on the oil pan to support the engine during the initial loosening. Once the bolts are cracked loose and the engine drops a bit, use the floor jack to raise it back up.
I never remove that sensor. Just use a 10mm boxed end wrench to remove the bolt.
The motor mount bolts have always been one time use per Honda. The threads on the bracket do like to strip out easily; I sometimes I have to timesert those holes. I keep a jack on the oil pan to support the engine during the initial loosening. Once the bolts are cracked loose and the engine drops a bit, use the floor jack to raise it back up.
I never remove that sensor. Just use a 10mm boxed end wrench to remove the bolt.
Now I'm puzzled again. Willbur mentioned earlier that the idler pulley bolt isn't TTY. The torque spec (33 ft-lb) on that is the same as the motor mount bolts, and I would tend to agree that doesn't sound like a TTY level of torque. He explained that it gets replaced to save the time of cleaning up the old threadlocker, and the new bolt already has the threadlocker applied (makes sense). The motor mount bolts don't call for threadlocker (to the best of my knowledge), so what's the story behind those?
It's too bad Honda doesn't make the service manuals available on Helm's website like they did for my '08 CR-V, I'd happily spend the $10 for a 3-day subscription to get the official procedure for a TB replacement. Unfortunately, the write up in the maintenance forum here, the instructions that came with the Aisin kit, and various Youtube videos make no mention of replacing them.
It's too bad Honda doesn't make the service manuals available on Helm's website like they did for my '08 CR-V, I'd happily spend the $10 for a 3-day subscription to get the official procedure for a TB replacement. Unfortunately, the write up in the maintenance forum here, the instructions that came with the Aisin kit, and various Youtube videos make no mention of replacing them.
$25 for 1-day of access.
I have always reused the motor mount bolts. But I always replace the idler pulley bolt.
Thank you! Did not know Honda offered it directly through their site.
All Data or Mitchell diy versions? Alot cheaper but any good in your opinion?
The old Aisin kits did include that pulley bolt. Perhaps its left out now bc honda techs don't replace that pulley anymore. They tell me they don't go bad. But a new pulley is included. Six dollars for a new bolt it is nothing. There are 3 motor mount bolts to take the load. What's the chance of all letting go?
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The new alldatadiy isn’t shabby, but nothing is as complete as the real Honda service info.
Plus the fact that if the bolt is taken past its yield they wouldn't just give a torque value. Honda has had a long history of specifying certain critical bolts be replaced during repair, even my old 1996 Accord shows this for the engine mount bolts, same as here.
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Chase them with a tap, or a brass/nylon gun barell cleaner.
Lang Tools 2584 15-Piece Metric Thread Restorer Set, Black , Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJ48V0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CV05ZJ3VPM5DS8V5K69N
Here is my review of the Aisin TKH-002 kit: Honda V6 Aisin TKH-002 Timing Belt Kit - My Review
Still going strong after 4-years and 22,000-miles. No strange sounds. No failures. Idler pulley bolt was not supplied or replaced.
Confusing. That one mount bolt (lower left) has thread locker on it but the other two do not. Do we torque a new bolt with the locker on it to the same value as specified for all three? Getting that locked bolt was alot harder to remove than the other two so it cant be the same . Why does Honda put lock goop on one bolt but no the others?
IIRC the three 14mm bolts (on the bracket) that go into the engine had threadlocker. I always torque those bolts; the threads on the block side are kinda soft. Don't ask me how I know.
I don't pay much attention to the other three (two facing up, one going into the side mount); just get those tight.
My bolts only had a red thread locker (but its low strength) on one bolt. It came off a lot harder than the other two, so they did not have any. But, do we use the same value for all three? On the one with locker, a lot of the torque is overcoming friction and not clamping as the other two do. This is important to know bc of the soft block material, as you say. Strip out the threads and big trouble.
Chase it with a cheap carbon steel tap (not a high precision HSS tap specifically made to cut new threads) or cut 2 or 3 cuts with a dremel cutting wheel down the old bolt threads, this is a good thread chaser.
This trick is slick for brake line fittings that get the initial threads a bit buggered, a tap will not work as there is a flare end in there.
The Honda threadlocker has always been "dry," so I think all dry threads can see the same torque value.
I've always cracked them loose and ran them out with a cordless ratchet. Never really noticed.
As usual, technician's discretion...but please own the outcome of your repair.
No clue. None of the bolts that show replacement on my old Accord have locker on them from the factory nor do they say to add it during installation.
What does your 96 Accord have to do with a J35 V6?
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