Very minor question, just got the Aisin TKH-002 kit to do the TB, and was under the impression the hydraulic tensioner uses engine oil pressure in addition to the spring to add tension. Eyeballing the replacement, there doesn't appear to be a hole. Is it just filled with oil to dampen it and does not use engine oil at all? I'm sure it's the right part, I'm just curious.
Honda J35 timing belt question
- Thread starter Dave Sherman
- Start date
Thank you!
Yep, what he said. Just a basic tensioner.
Yes, they were highly recommended as being the place to make sure you get a legit kit. A little nervous because it's my first TB job, but after various Youtube videos and a writeup on the Piloteers forum, it seems straightforward. Fingers crossed our crank pulley bolts come off and all goes smoothly.
My suggestion, get the bolt loose days BEFORE the day you want to do the timing belt, so you can have time to work on it, take it somewhere else for them to break free, or buy the tool(s) you need to do it.
Those bolts are no joke, and if you don't have the right tools, or the stomach to do the starter bump method, they can kill your project in short order. Get it broken loose and tighten it back up, it will be fine to drive on until your day to do the job rolls around.
Don't think that just because you have a 1/2 impact you're going to get the thing off either. There are some tools that will do it, but plenty of them fail.
Breaker bars have been broken, I've personally broken the stupid hex holding tool they make for them, tears have been shed, new curse words invented, etc.
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Thanks, I've got the Lisle impact socket, air impact, a couple of breaker bars, and the crank holding tool. I gather it's hit-or-miss, so even the Lisle socket isn't always successful. It had crossed my mind that the indy shop down the road has probably done them, so I might be able to hire them to crack it loose and snug it back up for the short trip back to my garage.
Long breaker bar jammed underneath and starter to break it free, it really is a quick job on these.
The weighted socket is definitely a huge help in getting the bolt off.
I'd say the most important thing is to make sure the keyway is back in on the crank pulley and then do 2 full rotations of the crank to make sure all your marks are still in the right position.
Also, the rear camshaft likes to jump on you so make sure to hold it in place with a wrench (14mm I believe).
I'd say the most important thing is to make sure the keyway is back in on the crank pulley and then do 2 full rotations of the crank to make sure all your marks are still in the right position.
Also, the rear camshaft likes to jump on you so make sure to hold it in place with a wrench (14mm I believe).
When I did the belts on my BMWs and a CRV. I set the #1piston at TDC before I took belts off.
There are marks on the J Series pulleys that you set everything to before taking the belt off. For the most part, unless you're really in there bumping around, things will stay put. If they don't you just put a wrench on the pulley and reset it to the mark.
I'm surprised you recommend (??) that method
That seems to be the key tool. When my son-in-law did the TB on our Odyssey, even his 1/2" I.R. pneumatic impact couldn't get it off. We ended up getting it off with the method ^ above.
I have a IR PowerSocket.....Done quite a few J-Series TB jobs & hasn't failed to remove a crank bolt yet. The breaker bar method works well most of the time.
Ayup, the IR power socket is the ticket on these. Usually get them with my cordless impact and the power socket. If its real tough I wind up going to air. Havent needed the holding tool to get one loose since I bought the power socket
Agreed. I haven't had luck getting one off with my Milwaukee Mid Torque, but an IR 2235timax and a Lisle damped socket spins them off fairly easily.
The rear cam does like to spin sometimes. Having the timing set dead on reduces the likelihood of this. I like to use the window in the cover for the front cam to confirm #1 TDC.
Make sure you replace the idler pulley bolt. A lot of people do not replace it and it is supposed to be replaced. The new Honda bolt comes with some type of red threadlocker pre-applied, but I don't think it is Loctite Red.
It needs to be replaced bc it has used treadlocker on it, not bc it is worn out. What doesCline or Trav think/do?
Depending on the model year, Honda actually wants you to install a new bolt AND use thread-locker.
I had wondered if that bolt had to be replaced since I saw it mentioned in some Honda service manual excerpts, but the kits don't come with it and there's no mention of replacing it in the kit instructions. Asking on the piloteers forum, the prevailing response was that most Honda technicians don't replace them and just put new threadlocker on. I suppose for the whopping $6 to order a new one from Majestic it's not a big deal to replace it. Doesn't seem like it's a TTY bolt like a cylinder head bolt, but I will agree it's a bad day if it comes loose or shears.
Edit: Would it need Loctite blue or Loctite red? Not sure if the red stuff from the factory is equivalent to red Loctite.
Edit: Would it need Loctite blue or Loctite red? Not sure if the red stuff from the factory is equivalent to red Loctite.
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