Honda H22A4 Synthetic vs Dino Oil Results

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The original post indicated that the dino oil was also run 7500 miles, not 3000 as some previous replies indicate. Did I miss something?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Smitty:
The original post indicated that the dino oil was also run 7500 miles, not 3000 as some previous replies indicate. Did I miss something?

"The 3000 mile dino change interval is what the TOP (NASTY) valve cover was created by."
 
jthorner:

Completely certain about the maintanence record and oil change interval.

I've seen pretty much that level of grime on 3 of 7 VC's so far. Each of the 3 used dino oil... only one with a clogged PCV.

kevz:

The PCV on my H22A4 was stuck for at least the last 20,000 miles and my VC looks great. So I doubt that's the issue... but it could be.

On the rides I've looked at... one 2 mine (and one not pictured) has clogged PCVs.

Ballbearing:

Good news.

Primus:

Certainly gives you something to think about.

cangreylegend:

All good points... all true. Yes. the H22A series does have an oil cooler... but... it doesn't seem to make a difference in the valve cover areas.

Alan:

Well, Alan, it's 7 applications on one engine type. So I've fairly confident that with the Honda H22A series engines... things will generally contrast out this way.
 
From his second post:

quote:

The 3000 mile dino change interval is what the TOP (NASTY) valve cover was created by.

Compared to the 7500 mile Mobil 1 / AMSOIL change interval that I used on my (BOTTOM) H22A4 for 50,000 mile longer...

 
I wonder what property of the dino oil caused the sludging that the synthetic didn't. For example, Chevron Supreme 5w-20 has a flashpoint of 460 F. Mobil 1 0w-20 has a 450 F flashpoint. Would the Chevron Supreme cause sludging compared to M1?
 
Flash point is just one of many factors affecting the others propencity to sludge. The dino oils come out od the bottle with more radical hydrocarbons in the lighter more volitile spectrum. It is the combination of light hydrocarbon and cheap VII's that cause alot of sludge when left in the engine too long.

The light synthetics like 5W30 will have little to no VII's, less solvents and no radical hydrocarbons thaqt do not belong. This makes it much more difacult but not impossable to get sludge.

Synthetics usualy have better additive packages ans use higher grade VII's as well.
 
I'm questioning the"dino" oil as to what brand AND did it meet at least the SL spects. I have seen many engine apart at 125,000 miles that had 4,000 oil/filter changes and the ONLY time I saw anything this bad was from a taxie that spent 80 percent of the time idiling in 90+ tempetures in Chicago.
 
i know someone who purchased a used/abused accord and it's valve cover looked nothing like what's shown above. it's got some varnish on everything, but no sludge.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Smitty:
Berge, I still say it says the dino was run 7500 miles. Gerhardb could you clarify that for us?

Actually, I've been referring to a few different engines.

The nasty pic above was 7500 mile intervals on dino.

Two of the other units I inspected and compared had been using dino at 3000 mile intervals and had similarly nasty valve covers.

What I need to do is find out what oil they've been using.

All of these rides are 1997+ Honda Preludes.
 
This is really a poor example.

7,500K intervals with dino and synthetics is not ideal at all,at least where the dino is used.
 
While I agree the Synthetic Pic is much better lets not condem the dino oil out of hand. So what if the vapors in the valve cover condense and gum up the covers. What do the mechanicals look like?

I had a '56 Mercury that had valve covers that always looked like crap but the mechanical components were just fine.

Keep in mind that the dino was run closer to it's limit, if not past it.
 
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