Honda CBR F4i - Mobil 1 MX4T 2800 miles

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Mileage on unit - 14400

Oil use interval - 2800
Entire interval was highway miles with occasional redline bursts through the gears. No track days on this oil.

I dumped this oil and am now using Motul 300V race oil 10w40. I have two track days on this oil now and plan on dumping it after the third track day. Will be using Motul again after that intvral.

Safe to say I won't be using M1 anymore
thumbsdown.gif
. I have high expectations for the Motul since this is the best MC oil you can by, IMHO, considering the background and race teams that use this oil.

The first column is the interval with Honda HP4 and the second is the most recent with M1.

Metals HP4 MX4T
-------- ---- -----
Aluminum 10 17
Chromium 0 0
Iron 8 12
Copper 2 3
Lead 1 3
Tin 1 0
Molybdenum 1 0
Nickel 0 0
Manganese 1 1
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 3 0
Boron 234 117
Silicon 9 10
Sodium 3 2
Calcium 1461 2515
Magnesium 3 466
Phosphorus 724 896
Zinc 865 1048
Barium 0 0

Sus Viscosity @210F 58.2 62.6
(should be 65-76)

Flashpoint in F 375 360


Fuel %

AntiFreeze %
0.0 0

Water %
0.0 0.0

Insolubles %
0.1 TR

[ August 14, 2004, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: RC211V ]
 
Well-its O.K. But this oil is hugely overpriced. Serious shearing down. I agree with your action of changing to something else.
smile.gif


Motorcycles don't seem to draw much interest here
frown.gif
 
Same with me, I was running amsoils syn 10w40 motorcycle oil and after 2200 miles it sheared down to a very low 30wt (almost a 20) and my aluminum levels were 49! This was after a few track days though.
I think the key is to go with a 20w50 and it will shear down to a 40 wt in no time at all. This way I hope it will have a little better film strenght and prevent the aluminum levels from spiking so **** high.
 
Redline doesn't shear too much.

Silkolene is another option for those looking for a POE oil that resists shearing more than your average PAO.
 
quote:

Well-its O.K. But this oil is hugely overpriced. Serious shearing down. I agree with your action of changing to something else.

Motorcycles don't seem to draw much interest here

Yes, overpriced is a understatment. At $8 a qt., thats a buck over what I can get RL for!
rolleyes.gif


If the Motul does poorly, my last hope is RL 10w40. But Iam optimistic the Motul will do well since it is mostly ester. Don't know the ratio or the additive package but my UOA will tell.

The interval for the HP4 was 3500 miles. Stay away from the HP4.
spaz.gif
The oil was all highway at low rpm as well and it sheared to a high 20wt
shocked.gif
. I can't imagine how the Dino GN4 would do here or any dino for that matter.
nono.gif


Does anyone know if there is alum. in the gearbox? Iam just curious how much of these metals is engine vs. gearbox.
confused.gif
 
If shearing is an issue, and considering you probably only ride in warm weather, why not consider a monograde SAE 40 lube?
 
quote:

Originally posted by RC211V:


Safe to say I won't be using M1 anymore
thumbsdown.gif
. I have high expectations for the Motul since this is the best MC oil you can by, IMHO, considering the background and race teams that use this oil.



While I'll have to disagree Motul is the absolute best Bike oil money can buy I will say the Mobil 10w-40 synthetic is the last true synthetic of choice for me . Too costly for what you get in return IMO .

The 6 buck a quart Kawasaki 10w-40 which I believe to be relabeled Motul 10w-40 E-Tech is one fine oil quantified through analysis and easily obtainable .It's a PAO/Ester midrange oil from Motul vs their higher end stuff .

I prefer the 13cSt Maxima 10w-40 or their relative light weight 17cSt 15w-50 with literally a time again the anti-wear adds in a primary Ester base oil with just enough PAO to balance seal swell over the Mobil's products .

They have actually de-tuned the Maxima's down from around 3k ppm of zinc/phos to a little over 2k ppm in the latest generation .

Looking forward to seeing your Motul report thinking it should protect better when the going gets tough .

Track days and street riding both demand alot from these oils .
 
[

Safe to say I won't be using M1 anymore
thumbsdown.gif
. I have high expectations for the Motul since this is the best MC oil you can by, IMHO, considering the background and race teams that use this oil.

The first column is the interval with Honda HP4 and the second is the most recent with M1.

]____________________________

Thanks for posting your data, I'd be interested to see the results from your replacement oil also.

Just in viewing some of the motorcycle oil analysis elsewhere in the threads, motorcycles seem to show alot more contamination to the oil much quicker.

IMO, That particular bike from the results 2800 miles is too long. Ive never taken mine over 2k, and I've run a few different oils. You've given me good reason to not run long change intervals on a motorcycle.

Thanks

[ December 04, 2004, 03:07 PM: Message edited by: Mackelroy ]
 
I still think mobil one and amsoil are good oils I just think the combined sump (tranny/block and wet clutch) chews the living P!SS out of oil. I think if you ride anywhere it is above 40 degrees you should go with a 20w50 oil, because its seems that they the big dogs sheer down too much. Mobil one according to the 3mp study is VERY sheer stable. I figure with a 20w50 oil youll still have protection over 1K miles. The 10w40 wt they recommend is if you go by the book and your shifting into 6th gear by the time you hit 35mph. Sure it will last for that Honda recommended 8K mile change LOL. Inline 4s just abuse the crap out of oils no way around it.
 
Does anyone know if there is alum. in the gearbox? Iam just curious how much of these metals is engine vs. gearbox. ++++++++++++++++

The stock clutch baskets are cast aluminum the largest part in the tranny, it's a constant aluminum provider on mc with wet clutch.
 
Run Shell Rotella dino truck oil (15W40) for 2000 mile intervals. You'll save enough on the cost of the oil to pay for your oil analyses--which will be quite good, I'm sure.
smile.gif


Dan
 
quote:

Originally posted by fuel tanker man:
Run Shell Rotella dino truck oil (15W40) for 2000 mile intervals. You'll save enough on the cost of the oil to pay for your oil analyses--which will be quite good, I'm sure.
smile.gif


Dan


........

I totally agree,though I use mobil delvac 1300 super 15/40. RMZ 450 mx bike shared sump.
KX 250 mx bike CLUTCH/TRANNY
HTHS numbers are 4.3 TBN= 12 with excellent phos and zinc levels. I would love to see motorcycle specific oils at 6-8.00 a qrt, against hdeo oils at 6.00 a gallon.Honda,yamaha suzuki,kawa,belray,silkolene,golden spectro etc.

I am a big fan of using a excellent dino oil,with frequent changes!!!!!!!!!!

KEITH
"LET'S JUST RIDE"
 
makelroy,
the almuminum can come from the pressure plate, clutch hub or clutch basket itself. possibly the pistons as well.
however, i would bet short hairs on the clutch pack.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 2003TRD:
Mobil one according to the 3mp study is VERY sheer stable. I figure with a 20w50 oil youll still have protection over 1K miles.

Just remember that the 3mp study is in a car, so no shared tranny to shear stuff. Take a look at M1 15W-50's performance in the "Mobile 1 15W50 5,127 miles Kawasaki Concours motorcycle" thread--it almost sheared out of grade, but it took over 5K miles to do so. That UOA is probably a better test of oil for our purposes, and it shows that M1 15W-50 is pretty darn robust!
 
See if you can find some of the new Amsoil "MCV" 20W-50 for your bike, RC211V. No one's posted a UOA on it yet that I'm aware of. It's supposed to be way different from the older Amsoil "bike" oils, more shear stable and better for gears.

I'm running the "MCF" 10W-40 in my ST1100 now. Good stuff so far.
 
quote:

The 6 buck a quart Kawasaki 10w-40 which I believe to be relabeled Motul 10w-40 E-Tech is one fine oil quantified through analysis and easily obtainable .It's a PAO/Ester midrange oil from Motul vs their higher end stuff .

Any specs online for this stuff? I haven't heard of it before; all I've seen is the conventional KawaChem oils like these. I have a UOA on what is probably the 10W-40 here that shows it sheared down to a 30-weight in about 3,000 miles.
 
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