HM oil and oil leaks

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Messages
139
Location
New York
I have a 96 Toyota Avalon with the 3.0L V6 engine, it had over 150K miles on it. I have been using GTX HM oil on it for the last 3 oil changes, total miles driven is about 16K. On the last (the 4th) oil change a little over a month ago. I got a hold of some old Havoline 5W30 oil (not the DS) for a good price. So I decided to try it out on the Avalon. The Avalon had a slow oil leak for a long time, just a couple drops over night here and there. But after this recent oil change with the dino Havoline oil, the car started to leak oil a lot more and somehow, the driping oil start to get onto the exhault pipe and start smoking after the engine is off. I don't really know what happened, whether this faster oil leak is due to the switching to the regular dino oil or not (especially the old havoline with a high molly content). Can anyone shine some light on this subject please. Thanks.
approved.gif
 
you've probably got it right. likely stopping the use of HM oil meant no more seal conditioners, which likely led to the seals drying up a bit, becoming slightly smaller. hence the leak.

i think.

although i may be totally off.
 
I think you need to have a mechanic shine a light up there and find out of there is a problem in need of repair.
 
The GTX HM probably softened and swelled the seal just enough to slow the leak. In some cases, an HM oil will stop a leak completely.
 
The current Havoline oil in the Avalon only has less than 2000 miles on it. I am thinking about changing the oil back to GTX HM this weekend. I don't plan to change the filter again this time. Do you think that's a good idea not change the filter and just change the oil back to GTX HM?
 
If its the same vis. the havoline will flow much quicker thru the engine thats why its leaking more. Havoline uses a much better basestock than Castrol.
 
The Havoline has been in the engine since 8/29/07. Both oils are 5W30 (Havoline and GTXHM).
 
Why 10W30, the oil cap calls for 5W30. It is very cold here in upstate New York in the winter, I may have a hard time starting the car when it is 20 degree F outside using 10W30.
 
go with maxlife 5W-30 blend. it will probably bring the leak to a stop if its a minor leak. great oil too, be confident it is protecting the ---- out of your engine. good cold temp flow too.

ps - where in upstate are you? buffalo? rochester?
 
Rochester, my daughter had the car since the last Havoline oil change. She called me yesterday telling me after she stop the car and turned off the engine. She saw smoke coming out from or under the car. I really don't know exactly what's going on, but I will have the car back this weekend. I have to take the car out for a ride and then take a good look under the car to see when the smoke came from. I am pretty sure I tighten the oil filter and the drian plug very well when I change the oil, but you never know after that. Alway something with an old car.
 
10W-30 Maxlife should be good down to 0*F, but if it makes you feel better then go with the GTX HM 5W-30. But I'm thinking you should go ahead and run the Havoline for a whole OCI since it's only been in there for a month.
wink.gif
smile.gif
 
I finally got the Avalon back from my daughter today. After I shut off the car, I put a piece of cardboard under the car. An hour later I checked the cardboard and found a couple drops of oil in two places. Looks like they are coming from the seals around the oil pan. I clean up the seal and drove the car later and did the same thing and found a couple drops of oil on the cardboard again. I think there is a slow leaks from the oil pan seal. I wonder going back to GTX HM oil will slow them down because of the seal conditioner in the HM oil just like before. I am going to change the oil tomorrow and put GTX HM oil back in. Can anyone give me an idea of how much it costs to replace the seal on the oil pan. Thank you for any help sny can give me.
 
Just slide underneath there and snug up those little pan bolts. I'd use a 1/4" drive set up so I wouldn't have to worry about over tightening them.
 
I agree with Merkava
smile.gif
-- I've fixed a couple of oil pan drip/leaks by just tightening the oil pan bolts. Seems quite common that they can get a little loose and cause little leaks.
 
I had try that, I used a nut driver with a handle and try to tighten those bolts. But they won't move at all. What else can I try? Any other suggestions?
 
So, can anyone give me an idea how much it costs to replace the seal on the oil pan?
 
"So, can anyone give me an idea how much it costs to replace the seal on the oil pan? "

That all depends. On some cars you can do the job in 1/2 and hour on a lift. On other cars it can take several hours. It all depends upon what needs to be removed in order to get the oil pan off. Any shop which regularly works on Toyotas should be able to give you a good estimate by phone if the oil pan seal is all that needs to be replaced. The part itself should be pretty cheap.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top