Higher RPM & Heat - Higher Viscosity?

[robert]

Would appreciate opinions from the educated masses. I have a 94 Celica, 1.8, 4 cyl, 5 speed, manual. Owners manual states 10W-30. My concern is that at 60mph in 5th gear, I am turning 3000 rpms. Most 6 and 8 cyl engines turn about 2000 rpms or less at that speed. When shifting in traffic, engine revs to 1500 to 2000 rpms. (More chance for oil shear?) I do not gun it. Toyota engines seem to produce more heat than the average engine. I do not have an actual heat guage with temp markings, only the C and H guage without actual temp. Guage indicates normal op temp, but you can feel heat. I feel guage is correct. Car is driven in severe conditons. 2000 miles per month, heat, stop and go, short trips. I have only owned this car for 6 months and need the best brand and viscosity oil to protect the engine. Due to severe driving conditons, I prefer 3K oil changes. Would appreciate advice. Thanks!

 

[dragboat]

I guess you did not get the answers you wanted here http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000123 I still say Chevron Supreme since you live in TX where it is available or Pennzoil both in 10/40 with the driving style and change intervals you have spoke of.Would go back to a 10/30 in latter September.

 

[87GT97CRV]

I'm in coastal So-Cali area, and I just changed the oil in my 97 Honda CR-V to Mobil SuperSyn, three qts. of 10W-30 and one qt. of 15W-50(Changed from 5W-30 tri-syn). It's quite warm out here now, the motor is a hard working 2.0L lugging 3300 lb. of wagon around as I rev the crud out of the engine to get anywhere. IMO it doesn't hurt to be safe on your viscosity choice based on your vehicle useage conditons.

 

[VaderSS]

I would not worry about the 10W30 holding up. It's what I'd run. If you are worried, get it analyzed. Then you can either change based on an informed decision or be confident in the 10W30 choice if the analysis comes out well.

 

[Dominic]

Just to throw my opinion into the boat - I would suggest the Valvoline Synthetic/Maxlife/Durablend 10W-30. I have used both the Synthetic and Durablend for years with no problems even with dogging the engine in dragrace / roadrace conditions. I've also tooled across the country at speeds approaching 100mph in the heat of the arizona desert with mobil1 without a hint of a problem, but that was on trisynthetic SJ. I can without a doubt recommend any valvoline product made as being one of the finest readily availble OTC oils on the market. If you want something better though, look at Redline and Schaeffers - those two so far are tough to beat in terms of quality, with the Schaeffers being priced far better I'm rough only 3800-II as well (after the oil has warmed up of course) and I am also looking for one of the best 10W-30s on the market to run in it. It will be interesting to see what comes of this thread

 

[robert]

dragboat - I did not intend to double post. The previous post did not address my concern about the high RPMs, which I now realize as a factor. These small engines really turn RPMs under normal driving conditioins. My apology to the board if this is considered a double post. Board Moderators: Please delete if you deem appropriate. I may should have added RPM info to original post, but I feel many do not like to scroll thru old replies. Again, my apology.

 

[dragboat]

Quote" My apology to the board if this is considered a double post." Without a doubt an appology is not neccesary.I just posted the thread becasue I did not think you got the answers you wanted.There were few that was answers to what you actually asked,same here. I doubt you want to use a Synthetic and change at 3K ? Those RPM's are nothing to be concerned with. I consider them extremly low. Again,if you are interested in 3k oil changes in above 90F heat the 10/40 is what you need. All the oil companies I know of has 90 F has the cutoff point for a 10/30.Even some owners manuals show this.Bet they get it from the oil companies. I use 10/30 in 105 temps but for 30 minutes periods on the hiway only then parked.You are driving much different,sitting at stoplites ect and that would IMO push a 10/30 oil and give your mechanic a reason to denounce what ever brand you have used per previous posts by me

 

[ZR2RANDO]

Robert, Given the conditions you described above, I would basically agree with most of the statements above. 10w/40 oil would help during the summer especially as you have a relatively low RPM engine and use 3k oil changes. I probably would use it all year, it is still considered a 10w oil at cold start during summer or winter (The pour/pump point is probably fine unless you hit -30F during the winter). The 40 would be fine for me given that the vehicle is a little worn in by now. A 15w/40 oil would decrease the amount of VII used in the 10w/40 oil, but either way, would be how I would be goin. see ya

 

[Al]

I'm doing what 87GT97CRV is doing 3 qts Mobil SS 10W-30 and a quart of 15W-50. I think its a good plan.

 

[Chris J.]

okay guys, since some of y'all recommend a 10w-40 for a 94 Celica, then what about a 02' Protege'5 that ahs only 7K miles? I drive HARD and change my oil between 2000-3000 miles because i live in atlanta, ga and the temps are up above 100 degress on the road. Ambient temps are i the 90's easy every day. Would I be okay to run a 10w-30 (i am now running Sytnec 10w-30), or to run a 10w-40? I was running Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 but, after reading various posts regarding the use of a higher viscosity than is recommended for an engine (my manual say 5w-30 or 10w-30 will go over 100 degress-not sure about that one though!), i changed it to 10w-30 Syntec. And since I drive in start-stop traffic and high heat and humidity (you Northerners have it SO EASY!-j/k), should I have gone w/ my original inclination 10w-40 Syntec? Again, it will only be in my engine for approx. 2,000 or 3,000.

 

[Johnny]

Chris J: Your 10W30 syntec will do just fine. Now if you think us Northerners have it easy, just come pay us a visit in January.