Higher RPM 4 cylinder - Oil strategy

[NewGuy]

Gentlemen -

I would like some advice from the Group. I know that changing the oil regularly and doing all the preventative maintenance will keep my car running well for many years, but BITOG is all about the pursuit of the "best" oil selection.

Background:
I recently sold my 2004 Tahoe (211,000 miles - no issues) and purchased a 2007 Acura TSX (6 speed). There are huge differences in the vehicles that might need a new oil strategy. The Acura is made to rev higher (5k rpms are not uncommon when hitting an on-ramp) and it is a 4 cylinder. The Tahoe was a V-8 with tons of torgue at low rpms.

Side Note: Switching cars will save at least $2K/yr in gas at $2.75/gal. That is a lot of $$ savings over 4-5 years. This is the main reason for the switch.

I drive a lot for work (35k+/yr) and I want to use the Acura OLM. My first oil change was between 5-6k. I believe this will be typical. The OLM on the Tahoe would allow 10k OCIs, but I never took it that far.

I put Mobil Clean 5000 in the Acura at my last oil change because I had some left in the garage. I planned to do a shorter (3k) oci as a flush and then switch to something else. I purchased some PYB for the next change, but now I am leaning toward PP for a few OCIs just to give the engine a good cleaning. Then I may switch back to PYB.

Questions:
- Would the higher revs of this smaller 4 cylinder lead you to one oil vs. another?
- Does the strategy for using PP for a few OCIs to remove deposits seem sound?
- Would anyone ever use M1EP or Castrol Edge for an extended drain in one of these engines?

I searched the UOA section and could find no reference to these engines. Any advice would be appreciated!!

 

[bepperb]

The TSX engine isn't really anything you should worry about. The bottom end of the engine is the same as on my Accord, a CRV, an Element... etc. So, you can search UOA's and get a good idea from them. The real difference is the top end, your cam system is completely different. In fact, when dynoed together the engines are about identical until the max torque point where the 160hp regular variant drops sharply and the 205hp tsx much more slowly. A top end similar to the TSX is used with a different block and crank to make the Civic SI engine. They really are very common, just not in your form. And trips to redline certainly won't be a problem.

And they are incredibly easy on oil. If it were mine I'd probably run whatever your favorite 5-30 for 7500 ~ 10,000 miles.

This engine would be a great one to go for extended drains with EP, SSO, Edge. It's specd to go 7500~10,000 miles on dino.

 

[Johnny]

Good advise from bepperb. With the miles you travel it must spend a lot of time on the highway, which is easy on both the engine and the oil. I would just stick with the PYB and change it every 5-6K and be done with it.

Nice car.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

My yaris engine did not like PYB under high stress conditions, though it did fine at low RPM /LOW loads. I would look at M1 HM or AFE or Edge. I would not put in an oil to "clean things up" then go back to an oil that will gum things up again. I have never been satisfied with any 5w-30 conventional oil in my small engines. And given the amount of cleaning the true synthetics do after running even the best conventional oils at short intervals - I would find and stick to the SAME brand and weight synthetic for the longrun.

 

[Johnny]

Oh ARCO, PYB will not gum things up. Give us a break.

 

[fdcg27]

We've owned a number of Hondas over the years, and have two at the moment.
Every Honda we have ever had, back to our '76 Civic, needed to be revved hard to make any useful power.
My '99 Accord, for example, only comes alive at 4000.
I give it regular Italian tune-ups, and the Honda music after four grand is smooth and pleasant.
While they are rev-happy, Hondas are not at all picky about oil.
Go through the UOA forum, and search UOAs of Hondas and Acuras.
Good luck finding a bad one on any oil.
That said, I'd go with PP, M1, or any other oil you like, and trust the OLM.

 

[rclint]

I have a 02 Accord, and have ran several Honda's with 4 cylinder engines. The liters may change, they may have swapped a few things here, and there, but they boil down to the basic design. I can assure you PYB will serve your engine well under high RPM, I have ran it several times with zero problems out to 7500 miles, nor did it cause any type of sludge etc. You can run any kind of oil you want as long as that's what the OEM specs, as far as brand, conventional, synthetic whatever you want pour it in with no worries. The engine is super easy on oil, and this is one place I will confront Johnny on oil !! You can run the severe service interval with no worries at all on conventional oil, put in synthetic and run it out more if you like, or run synthetic out to severe service if you like, just keep in mind that conventional will hold up with no problems.

I have used many many brands, I really have not found anything that tips my fancy to much, and that just brings up the point again that it's just not a picky oil engine. Mobil 1 is a good choice, I'm currently running 5w-20 EP, I have also ran with outstanding results PP, Quacker State synthetic, I really liked Castrol Edge, PYB, Havoline, many more I can't think of right now.

This is a good car to search out oil sales for, rebates etc. On the long OCI it's no problem keeping and eye out (ok looking all over) for on sale, clearance, rebates etc oil deals. If your not into oil stashing just grab enough for about 2 oil changes, then you will have no problem staying ahead while getting super deals on oil. I guess there is something to be said for picking one oil, and sticking to it, however I don't see any problems with today's oils by searching out great deals, and changing brands.

 

[kr_bitog]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
Oh ARCO, PYB will not gum things up. Give us a break.

It won't gummed up but may burnt off
This 1NZ-FE is oil killer when you use high rpm often.
Some resorts to 40 weight for conventional oil to better survive in it.
It seems the top part is comparatively hotter than other common Japanese engine, including other Toyota engine like the K-series.

 

[rclint]

Easy on Arco Johnny, you have to give him credit he is in "tune" with his car more than the rest if us humble aspiring BITOG members can only dream to be.

 

[Johnny]

Not sure I know what you are confronting me on there rclint. Are you talking about how long to run a conventional oil in a Honda product?

 

[rclint]

kr-bitog I may have posted before I knew all the facts about the engine. I'm not sure of the exact model my engine is, it's the 2.3l 4 cylinder v-tec. I have owned several Honda's as I said, and travel around 90 miles a day to work, and was working at a place 116 miles each way. I redline often, and never go a day without hitting redline, and I guess I drive to fast as well commuting via interstate it's easy to do, and you might get run over if driving the actual speed limit.. I think it's safer to drive 5-10 miles over the limit by far than anything under the limit, and at the limit. I have never seen any of the Honda's I have driven consume any oil from running high rpm

 

[rclint]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
Not sure I know what you are confronting me on there rclint. Are you talking about how long to run a conventional oil in a Honda product?


Yes Johnny, I should have quoted you. I disagree with you on the 5-6k OCI, run the OCI out to either the OLM, or the OEM specification..which should be 10k if however do check to the original poster.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Do we have supporting UOA data that shows in multiple applications that PYB or FS or MC5K or similar will last the OLM 8-10K with adequate TBN retention? I dont recall seeing that data other than in a LL synthetic. The OP is in NC so that would help having no sub zero winter.

 

[bmwtechguy]

Especially with his type of driving. Does not sound like he does many short trips around town at 35k miles per year. Easy on oil in that regard to be sure.

 

[Johnny]

I was just going by my Honda experience. My owners manual says to change oil at 5K.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
Oh ARCO, PYB will not gum things up. Give us a break.
I wasnt singling out PYB as a sludger, but trying to reconcile poor engine recovery after high stress driving on any typ conventional EC oil, the more consistent torque and less fuel sensitivity when using a true synthetic, and the protracted "cleanup" when changing over to a synthetic after using GF4 conventional in short OCI. No, I didn't pull any pistons in these cars recently - but it all seems to point to piston varnishing and loss of HTHS under stressors. I do respect Penn crude, and recall back in the grp I solvent refining days when this oil displayed a much better VI than other US geo crude and made a great oil. PYB is a great oil for those of us that dont drive like an Italian in a Fiat 128 1.1L

 

[rclint]

Arco I assume the manufacture of the car has much more than just UOA data for the interval they deem fit. This is one day I really don't feel like getting into a endless debut about anything much less engine oil. I just stated my opinion, along with facts stated so in the OEM stated OCI, and to check what the OEM calls out for the specified OCI, and also the specified what the OEM calls out for in specification of oil. If the original poster follows what the OEM deems necessary maintenance intervals for his car, along with specified oil viscosity I don't see any problem with him doing this while also researching which oil brand, conventional or synthetic etc etc to satisfy his longing quest for ultimate lubrication of his engine.

 

[Johnny]

I use to own a Fiat 128 and I know what you mean. At that time I used Pennzoil 20W-40 in it. Oh what a car that was.

 

[Nick R]

My own opinion is to run Mobil 1 EP with PureONE filters for 12K mile OCI.

 

[tig1]

The M1 EP oils are fine for a 4 cyl engine as are other oils.