High steering deadzone in 1994 Honda Accord

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Oct 15, 2022
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Recently bought a 1994 Honda Accord(odometer broke at 295k miles) for dirt cheap as a beater/backup/project car and so far I've replaced a bunch of things. Those things including:
- New valve cover gasket
- New pcv valve
- New balance shaft seal
- New front main seal
- New oil pump seal
- Both timing belts
- Both drive belts
- Water pump and gasket
- Thermostat(w new coolant)

The project is far from over, speaking in terms of cosmetics, a few worn out suspension components, and a power steering leak that I intend to solve soon. However I need uv dye and a uv light as I believe most of it's coming from the hoses behind the engine.

However, I got it back on the road with it recently and I've noticed there's a deadzone between 10 - 2 o'clock when switching directions to turn the car. I was wondering if this could be attributed to the leak, suspension, or the steering rack itself.
 
Yes of course, air in the system can cause that. To a lesser extent, so can severely worn tie rod ends. Other wear items can also contribute a little like the steering joint or ball joints.

Considering the age of the vehicle, unless you need the UV dye for some other purpose, I'd just go ahead and replace the 2 steering hoses.
 
Recently bought a 1994 Honda Accord(odometer broke at 295k miles) for dirt cheap as a beater/backup/project car and so far I've replaced a bunch of things. Those things including:
- New valve cover gasket
- New pcv valve
- New balance shaft seal
- New front main seal
- New oil pump seal
- Both timing belts
- Both drive belts
- Water pump and gasket
- Thermostat(w new coolant)

The project is far from over, speaking in terms of cosmetics, a few worn out suspension components, and a power steering leak that I intend to solve soon. However I need uv dye and a uv light as I believe most of it's coming from the hoses behind the engine.

However, I got it back on the road with it recently and I've noticed there's a deadzone between 10 - 2 o'clock when switching directions to turn the car. I was wondering if this could be attributed to the leak, suspension, or the steering rack itself.
Nice list of parts.i would guess you left out steering rack and other components. Worn out is a good term.
 
Leak in the hydraulic system will cause occasional heaviness in the steering, IF somehow air was getting in or you were loosing pressure. It certainly doesn't sound like that's the issue here.

More likely, you have wear in your steering rack or the associated track rods & track rod ends.
 
If the suspension parts are worn - do them first. Balljoint, bushing, and tie rod wear can cause sloppy steering. If the slop is still there - it's time for a new rack. Check on the rack particulars before starting the suspension work. Mercedes, for example, sells the rack with new inner and outer tie rods. By the time you price everything, the rack, if it includes tie rods, might be cheap, and at those miles, I would replace it anyway.
 
Pretty sure the older Honda's have a steering free play adjustment. Needs a special tool
Yes just like on my old Accord. The special tool is really only a wrench that will fit in the limited space. The FSM gives details on the proper adjustment.

C59548DC-EF5E-4033-8535-1A24F46C5693.jpeg
 
Had a '97 Accord that needed a steering rack at 280k miles. Didn't try adjusting for free play, but the rack was definitely leaking, and there was excessive steering play.

Sold it at that time with its' original clutch still functioning fine, and the engine still running like a top. Lots of various oil leaks though.
 
Yes just like on my old Accord. The special tool is really only a wrench that will fit in the limited space. The FSM gives details on the proper adjustment.

View attachment 137266
IIRC, That tool is used to preload a friction element in the rack, similar to the effect of a steering stabilizer on a 4x4. I could be wrong, but I don’t believe it has much of an effect on slop or play.

it would be very easy for any worn suspension component to introduce dead zones - especially tie rod ends, rack bushings to the subframe.

1994 IIRC was the most favored body style for all the accords. It looked a lot like what became the Lexus LS in a slightly lower roofline.
 
Recently bought a 1994 Honda Accord(odometer broke at 295k miles) for dirt cheap as a beater/backup/project car and so far I've replaced a bunch of things. Those things including:
- New valve cover gasket
- New pcv valve
- New balance shaft seal
- New front main seal
- New oil pump seal
- Both timing belts
- Both drive belts
- Water pump and gasket
- Thermostat(w new coolant)

The project is far from over, speaking in terms of cosmetics, a few worn out suspension components, and a power steering leak that I intend to solve soon. However I need uv dye and a uv light as I believe most of it's coming from the hoses behind the engine.

However, I got it back on the road with it recently and I've noticed there's a deadzone between 10 - 2 o'clock when switching directions to turn the car. I was wondering if this could be attributed to the leak, suspension, or the steering rack itself.
I've seen lower ball joints cause this before they break . Not sure why they do it but I've seen it
 
This is a longshot, but the 1st-gen (RWD) Mazda MPV's steering rack was secured to the steering brackets with clamps and rubber bushings. The rubber bushings would wear out in time such that the rack would initially be forced sideways when steering inputs were applied (instead of immediately pushing and pulling the tie rods), resulting in a dead zone. Cross winds on the highway were a bit disconcerting until I figured out what was happening.

It would worth checking if your Honda's corresponding bushings are worn.
 
Going to jack the car up today and check for any play at the wheels and will go under and inspect the bushings of the steering rack itself too. Thanks guys.
 
Going to jack the car up today and check for any play at the wheels and will go under and inspect the bushings of the steering rack itself too. Thanks guys.
For me I have found it easier to find this kind of wear when the vehicle is on ramps rather than on jack stands. This helps to constrain wheel movement and allows you to see worn steering components easier. You'll also need a helper.
 
For me I have found it easier to find this kind of wear when the vehicle is on ramps rather than on jack stands. This helps to constrain wheel movement and allows you to see worn steering components easier. You'll also need a helper.
I'd do that but I just learned how to drive manual and I don't want to send the car over the ramps 😅
 
I'd do that but I just learned how to drive manual and I don't want to send the car over the ramps 😅
I'd say it is going to be a lot more difficult to find worn components without the wheels being under load. Especially the rack bushings.

Perhaps you should take the vehicle somewhere for diagnosis if you're afraid to drive it up on ramps.
 
Yes of course, air in the system can cause that. To a lesser extent, so can severely worn tie rod ends. Other wear items can also contribute a little like the steering joint or ball joints.

Considering the age of the vehicle, unless you need the UV dye for some other purpose, I'd just go ahead and replace the 2 steering hoses.
Fair enough, however it seems like there's some metal pipes back in there too. Would it be wise to replace those? or just the rubber hoses where it's leaking at the seams?
 
I'd do that but I just learned how to drive manual and I don't want to send the car over the ramps 😅
That's an honest admission.

I did some work on my friend's Pontiac (G5?) a few years ago, and got him to drive it up on my ramps so I could get under to do an inspection.

He was very hesitant getting onto the ramps, and made a number of false starts. After he finally got the front wheels onto the ramps, he said "That was the hardest thing I've ever done!"
 
Tie rods are definitely worn. Lots of play and heard some clicking while moving the wheels at the 3 and 9 o clock position.
 
Fair enough, however it seems like there's some metal pipes back in there too. Would it be wise to replace those? or just the rubber hoses where it's leaking at the seams?
Do you believe those metal pipes are contributing to the "deadzone" or do you see them leaking?

I doubt the transfer tubes are available anyway. They aren't for my '96.
 
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