Hi, I am NEW-Heres my beliefs

Status
Not open for further replies.
Messages
14
Location
kerrville,Tx
Hi-Noob here. Now, Im not talking specialty oils, which are the best of course, but deliver margianlly better extended life. Heres my non-scientific non-tech beliefs about oil and lube. What do you thinK?---- The following is advice I offer just from a common sence approach. I have used Rotella t synthetic from WAl-Mart (which I do not use anymore since it has now gone up a few dollars in price), and Fram Tough Gaurd filters.Fram Tough Gaurd filters offer excellent filtration, at a reduced oil flow. This is why I use synthetic oil, or at the very least a good mid-grad Semi-synthetic like Exxon Superflow.Any filter that has excellent filtration is going to be a compromise in the oil flow charectar of the filter. I am a bit concerned about the quality of construction, but I do change my filter every 4000-5000 miles. Also, the Fram has an Anti-Drainback valve. Still, I might switch filter brands with a little more research. One thing for sure-the Fram is the easiest to put on and take off-- this is no small concern on the 22r engine. I also use "RIslone" because its the only FAA approved oil additive, but i do not use it in my toyota, only in my older Ford truck with the 360 V-8 and 130,000 miles on it . Regarding the Junk you reccomend ,its just a gimmick. Just flush your engine every few oil changes with Berryman Chemtool before your oilchange and theirs no need for that crap. In addition, I agree that "Lucas" is junk, except for that its probaly good for your TAnk as a upper cylander lube and fuel system cleaner . Furthermore, nearly any oil that has the API sl- and "J" specs is sufficient. I currently use Wal-Mart Tech_synthetic at 12.00 for 5 quart bottle.Stay away from Motorcraft-it isnt rated to specs for Toyota-at least not that I could tell.One thing i do not do is puit any Teflon into my engine.I do use the very best synthetic Valvoline or similar fuel system /upper cylander lubricant once a year at least. __________________ 1989 2wd 22R;Mallory Hyfire Igntion,Magnacore wires,K/N filter,Gabriel Steer stablizr,Hellwig rear SWwaybar,Edelbrock shocks,Cooper tires 205-70-14,14X6 Steelies, LC Eng dbl. row time chain kit w/ cast iron oil pump, Porterfield r2 Front Discs/Carbon Kevlar rear drums,Zoom2 clutch Last edited by sloppybeak : Today at 01:12 AM.
 
Messages
1,261
Location
KY
quote:
I have used Rotella t synthetic from WAl-Mart
Very good oil.
quote:
and Fram Tough Gaurd filters.Fram Tough Gaurd filters offer excellent filtration, at a reduced oil flow
Fram's suck any day. Use Wix or purolator.
quote:
I also use "RIslone" because its the only FAA approved oil additive,
A good oil doesnt need additives.
quote:
Regarding the Junk you reccomend ,its just a gimmick
What junk might that be?
quote:
Just flush your engine every few oil changes with Berryman Chemtool before your oilchange and theirs no need for that crap
Hmm, I dunno.
quote:
I agree that "Lucas" is junk, except for that its probaly good for your TAnk as a upper cylander lube and fuel system cleaner
Yes there oil additives arent much, But their ucl is decent.
quote:
Furthermore, nearly any oil that has the API sl- and "J" specs is sufficient
SL or SM.
quote:
I currently use Wal-Mart Tech_synthetic at 12.00 for 5 quart bottle
Another decent oil.
quote:
Stay away from Motorcraft-it isnt rated to specs for Toyota-at least not that I could tell
Motorcraft is a very highly regarded oil just like all conoco-phillips oil's.
 

jerryjg

Thread starter
Messages
14
Location
kerrville,Tx
ahaha!just as I thought-I am being laughed at. In this case however, this is good, because it confirms what I pretty much knew, that I am an idiot who doesnt know squat about Petoleoum technology, and I am spouting off in front of actual experts and making myself look like a fool. well, guess i will shut up and listen and try to learn something. One thing thats always confusing is how even experts disagree about everything, so guys like me are often left wondering and in the end, have to go with coomon sence approaches to oil and lube. [I dont know]
 
Messages
1,261
Location
KY
Just pick up any SM rated oil(on sale of course) and a good filter(almost anything except fram) Supertech, Purolator, Wix, also on sale. And do 5k changes or whenever you get bored whichever comes first. And your engines should live long happy lives.
 
Messages
258
Location
Ft. Morgan, CO
Generally frams are not worth the money, the walmart filters are believed to be better by most. You can use motorcraft filters too, which are even better. You can probably cross-reference one to your toyota too if you wish to do so upon more research. Motorcraft oil is good, toyota specs aren't something to go by. As any SM oil sold at walmart should pass it, whether or not it says so on the bottle. And don't mind the people laughing, it is good natured. Welcome. [Smile]
 
Messages
2,698
Location
Silicon Valley
About the nicest thing I've read on here about Fram OFs is:"I've used them for umpteen years, and nothing bad ever happened." That's actually been my experience, but now I know better. Even Michael "Fram" Wan read on his Fram box that it is only good for 90 days. PS. Check out the BITOG consensus on K$N. That should broaden your horizons, if not change your beliefs entirely. My advice is to avoid talking out of your bum if you can help it, even if you are trying to be helpful and don't mind being laughed at. So if you don't know, don't say anything. Very low bee-ess factor here...
 
Messages
1,610
Location
Ohio
Dont feel bad jerry, I used to believe the world was all puppy dogs and chocolate truffles, but now I know Elvis is dead, O.J. did it, Fram's are a rip-off and when the boogy man goes to bed at night he checks his closet to make sure I'm not in there... Hey strings, by cock you do mean male chicken right.. [Big Grin]
 
Messages
23,892
Location
CA
quote:
Even Michael "Fram" Wan read on his Fram box that it is only good for 90 days.
Well...the recommended oil change interval for their Extra Guard filter is 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Their product warranty, however, will cover any failure provided that the filter is running per OEM drain intervals. Go figure, but I think there's a good reason why they say 3 months or 3000 miles on the Extra Guard (given its construction), as they specifically advertise their Extended Guard for long drains.
quote:
Fram Tough Gaurd filters offer excellent filtration, at a reduced oil flow.
Agreed. $5/filter, good bargain. But some members are not impressed by the cardboard endcaps or the design of the anti-drain back valve, but neither of those are an issue to me, personally.
quote:
This is why I use synthetic oil, or at the very least a good mid-grad Semi-synthetic like Exxon Superflow.Any filter that has excellent filtration is going to be a compromise in the oil flow charectar of the filter. I am a bit concerned about the quality of construction, but I do change my filter every 4000-5000 miles.
4-5K is fine for the filter, as for the rest of that particular sect of your post, I'm confused. [Confused]
quote:
Also, the Fram has an Anti-Drainback valve.
Actually its dependent on the particular filter model due to engine design (way filter mounts), but most do have an anti-drainback valve.
quote:
One thing for sure-the Fram is the easiest to put on and take off-- this is no small concern on the 22r engine.
Agreed.
quote:
I also use "RIslone" because its the only FAA approved oil additive, but i do not use it in my toyota, only in my older Ford truck with the 360 V-8 and 130,000 miles on it .
No its not needed.
quote:
Regarding the Junk you reccomend ,its just a gimmick. Just flush your engine every few oil changes with Berryman Chemtool before your oilchange and theirs no need for that crap.
No that isn't needed either if you change your oil at reasonable intervals. A periodic treatment of Auto-RX won't hurt either, but your engine will stay clean at reasonable oil change intervals.
quote:
Furthermore, nearly any oil that has the API sl- and "J" specs is sufficient.
For many cars on the road made before 2003, answer is yes. But API SM oils are much better.
quote:
I currently use Wal-Mart Tech_synthetic at 12.00 for 5 quart bottle.
Just use the conventional 5W30 Supertech Oil for about 1/2 the price and change it every 5000/6mo and save your money.
quote:
Stay away from Motorcraft-it isnt rated to specs for Toyota-at least not that I could tell.
Not true. All Motorcraft oils are rated for API SM/GF-4. Toyota recommends usage of oils that carry an API and ILSAC certification, both of which Motorcraft oils meet. Check the API service rating on the back of the bottle.
quote:
One thing i do not do is puit any Teflon into my engine.
Agreed.
quote:
I do use the very best synthetic Valvoline or similar fuel system /upper cylander lubricant once a year at least.
I'd just dump in a bottle of Chevron Techron (not Progard) 500 miles before each oil change (assuming that you change your oil every 5K).
quote:
just as I thought-I am being laughed at.
We're just trying to show you our thoughts.
quote:
I am spouting off in front of actual experts and making myself look like a fool. well, guess i will shut up and listen and try to learn something.
Well, most of us are more educated than the average consumer, but only a few members are actual experts in the field. Stay around and learn something. [Welcome!]
 

blupupher

Site Donor 2021
Messages
6,948
Location
Katy, Republic of Texas
quote:
Originally posted by Michael Wan: ...Well, most of us are more educated than the average consumer, but only a few members are actual experts in the field...
Well I'll be the first to admit I know nothing. [Smile] Jerry, welcome to the board. best advice I can give is to just read, read, read. I spent weeks reading stuff here before I even registered, much less posted. Most all of my questions I had have been answered by others before I asked (heck some questions were answered that I did not even know were questions I had). Take the giggles with pride, we were all there at some point, and no harm or meaness is intended.
 
Messages
524
Location
Central Oklahoma
"I think Havoline is the best all around oil, period." Could be. Or nearly identical cousin, Chevron. "My grandpa used Pennzoil his whole life, but he must have just gotten lucky or something, because everyone who has a brain knows that Pennzoil causes sludge (it's been proven again and again)." Maybe in the 60s/70s into 80s. Doesn't anymore, very fine add package. Top rated mineral on this board with Castrol GTX, Texaco, Chevron, TropArtic blends. Many like the HM versions, too.
 
Messages
8,937
Location
SC
quote:
Originally posted by stringsattached: Motorcraft and Super Tech are "ok" (just ok) brands because they have wax in them, which can stick to the inside of your engine and then come off in big clumps later on, destroying everything, though this doesn’t always happen. They may work alright for a short time, but don’t be penny wise and pound foolish, as they say: your waxy oil might end up costing you a new engine! (Oil without wax is called "de-waxed" or "isomeritized".) Havoline is a de-waxed group I oil, which is why it is the best.
And the hits just keep on comin'!! [LOL!] [LOL!] [LOL!]
 
Messages
8,937
Location
SC
quote:
Originally posted by Zaedock: George Michael is in the house. [bowdown]
We are going to lose the ability to use the quote reply because of posts like yours. [Roll Eyes] Tony has repeatedly asked everyone to stop quoting huge sections of posts with only a one or two line response of your own. This is a total waste of bandwidth and bandwidth costs money.
 
Messages
4,118
Location
Olathe, KS
When did Ford put 360s in their trucks? Must be before my time. I know of 302, 351, 460, and the new 4.6L and 5.4L, etc. did you place a Dodge engine in a Ford truck?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top