Helpe me unsieze my damm wheels

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It's like this every time I swap the summer tars for the winter tars. Granted I do take a bristle brush and apply anti-size to the back of the wheel /hub each time I am putting on the wheels and EVERY SEASON I usually get a wheel that I am fighting to get off.

With the cars on the jacks and stuff I'd prefer not to drop her down....just to use the weight to do the *grunt* on unseizing that damm pesky wheel.

Any advice fellas ?
 
What kinda car/wheels ya got there, partner?

My steelies on my 05 Camry never give me a problem and I don't use antisieze or a brush. Just torque 'em to 80 ft-lbs and they're good, even in this WI weather.
 
I'm with earlybird (Sorry, my accent's different!)

A little more detail as this seems to point to some other problem - like maybe not putting anitseize where it will do the most good?
 
maybe while the wheel is off sand the drum down to get all the rust off. then paint it so it wont rust. when paint is dry place wheel back on. I would think this would take care of it.

I know when my 03 dakota went in for inspection. they tried to remove the rear wheel and it was liek the nuts was still on it. after 3 min of kicking the tires it finally came off. there was alot of rust build up around center of the rotor drum (rear disks) will be pulling the wheels off in the spring and painting the rotor drum. I hope this works.
 
Usually a good kick will get them off.

I did have one time that the wheels were unbelievably stuck on the hubs though. When removing my winter wheels (OEM steelies) from my Mazda3 last spring, I had to loosen the nuts off a little (very little) and do some very hard cornering back and forth at low speed on a side street. After a few hard back-and-forths, there was a "bang". At that point, I'd pull over, tighten the freed wheel up, and do the next one. I had to do this for all 4 wheels.
shocked.gif
 
Jack the wheel up. Use a 8' length of 2x6 or wider plank and bash the inside of th wheel from the opposite side. To prevent the electrolytic bond , I use a fairly thick coat of chassis lube on the inside of thE alloy wheels and the hubs on my BMwS
 
My alloy wheels alway hung up until I applied Never-seize. If I didn't do it good enough ...I knew about it during inspection or during tire renewal.

The local tire shop has a sledge hammer for just such occasions. They, natually, don't beat the wheel. They just hit the rubber with a decent mass. Some use one of those composite dead blow hammers. This shop also offers to anti-seize the interior of the wheel if you want.

I try and only apply to the mating surface(s). If you get too paint happy you end up just attaching dirt or the stuff ends up migrating to the outer edge of the wheel.
 
As a rule, I never hammer directly on a wheel or rotor. I always put a piece of wood between the hammer and wheel.
 
We had this issue on my friend's M3 with HRE's last winter.

We eventually had to hold a few 2x4's and some old carpet against the wheel to protect it, and then we hit it with increasingly large sledge-hammers until we were using a massive one. It took a scary amount of force to free them.

we sanded his hub with emery paper and then applied anti-sieze very liberally on all contact surfaces. Removal this winter was no problem at all.

It is a problem on bmw's and porsches. I have even seen very very thin teflon or UHMW plastic wafer/discs with 5 bolt holes in them for sale. They are meant for BMW's and porsches to be installed between the rims and the hubs to prevent the corrosion caused by aluminum sitting next to steel (not to mention ambient corrosive elements). I don't remember where I saw those.
 
HA. I guess it's must by a BMW thang ;-)
It just so happens it's a X5 ....

Last year, I dropped the jack ever so slooooolwy down just to use the weight to free the wheel, and it went a lil bit too much. Thank goodness for the jackstands but all was well ---- whew !

I am so not looking forward to putting the winter tars on, but who knows - maybe luck will be on my side and it will be a breeze to take off this year .
 
There is a caveat with using plastic shims or painting the mounting surface. These layers can take a set and you lose the clamp load from the lug nots/bolts, ending with disasterous results. I work in the wheel corner industry and one of our clients had a rash of wheel-offs in their trucking fleet because of these shims. I recommend using antiseize paste.
 
My employer has a fleet of 96-05 Ranger pickups, and most if not all of them get this stuck-wheel problem. The problem is undoubtedly made worse since the shop never rotates the tires. Imagine trying to change a flat on the rear of a 10-year old truck on a wet, dark evening! At least the fronts are easier to get off because you can spin the wheel and thus hammer on opposite sides of the rim.
 
I went to work 2 hrs later as I need to get this done......
Maybe it's a winter wheels thing vs, the summer wheels - going to pay attention when the winter tars come off, but this time around they did not need any coaxing whatsover. Just a lil back and forth and they come right off.

And as I was driving to the station to put a lil air in, I said to myself....I hope I didn't put any the wrong way ( I was in a rush to wrap up and get to work) and lo and behold, the rears are installed backwards ....argh.....guess just means more wheel dismounting pratice time for me.
 
BFH, BF Prybar, Heck leave lugs little loose roll around parking lot in circles till it pops.

Then clean and grease or anti-seize.
 
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