Help with a fan belt. TIA

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Long story short my AC died in my van and with winter setting in I don't have the time or desire to mess around with it now. As it stands I can't drive it. I want to get a fan belt to bypass the AC for it but it's not as easy as ordering a belt for an 88 E-150 4.9L w/o AC. Reason being the thermactor pump was removed. None of the local stores can or want to get me a belt based on size. I did the math and I'm reasonably certain of the size, and was wondering if anyone has a link to a supplier or mfg. where I can plug in a belt size and get a part number for a belt. The belt I need is a 6 rib, 20mm wide 2410 mm long belt. Thanks. Boy to I miss the old school Mom and Pop parts stores.
 
K060846HD might be a schoche too long
That's the one I was looking at. After jerking around with the Thermactor pump and getting junk for replacements, I eliminated it, and was able to get a belt for it by cutting the old belt routing it, measuring it, and a bit of luck.

I might do a Google search and see if there's some old-timer like myself that eliminated the AC and Thermactor pump and posted a part # for the belt. I think I might have a better shot winning the lottery though. ;)
 
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I'm not concerned about the AC or defrost at the moment, with the mix mode and the blower working the window will stay clear. I just need the van running for some local work, and when I have more time I'll dig into it deeper.
 
Maybe dumb question but don't you need the AC to run the defroster?
It really helps to run the AC during defrost because the AC dehumidifies the air and makes the defroster work much better and quicker. It's not totally necessary, though. Quite a few cars built in the 60's never had air conditioning from the factory and the cars that did have factory air didn't have the AC compressors cycle during the defrost setting until the late 60s. (Not going to look up the exact date, but it was sometime around then)
But getting back to the OP's vehicle, yes, a working AC really would help to defrost the windshield.
 
I say the use of AC is most effective to deFOGGING the windshield and side windows, yes it will assist with defrosting, but you need heat for that to be effective.
 
Does the compressor run all the time? Can't you just pull the relay so you don't accidentally kick it on? I had an 86' Ranger that the A/C was no good on, compressor had a clutch.
 
Does the compressor run all the time? Can't you just pull the relay so you don't accidentally kick it on? I had an 86' Ranger that the A/C was no good on, compressor had a clutch.
No it is knocking with or w/o the relay plugged in. As far as I can tell the problem is with the compressor itself and not the clutch, which is why I'm trying to get a replacement belt, to bypass the AC and I'll deal with the AC in the spring.
 
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I told you it may be a dumb question, I don't know jack about electrical systems.

I was just wondering about how the electrical system would react when the defrost was turned on and no AC was present when it was designed to see one.
 
Plenty of vehicles through the 1980s didn't have AC. Or power windows. Or power door locks. Or power anything. It'll be fine. I had a 1988 E250 Club Wagon with that engine and 3 speed auto. Topped out around 70mph with the 4.11 rear axle. Like this:

1635342723224.jpg
 
As mentioned earlier, if you remove relay or unplug compressor, as long as clutch/pulley bearing is good you will eliminate compressor operation without any issues. Compressor just becomes an idler. If pulley bearing is shot that won't work.
 
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