Pretty hard to go wrong with this stuff for under $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...;linkId=6a24adf6fabc32e0a723d94f1d7a15a6
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/911gj0qvHrL._SY679_.jpg "[Linked Image]")
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...;linkId=6a24adf6fabc32e0a723d94f1d7a15a6
Help selecting oil for the 3.5L, V6 Toyota Tacoma motor?
- Thread starter Ed_Flecko
- Start date
Toyota's run on just about anything. They aren't picky. I chose Amsoil, that's right I said the A word. SS 0W30 a few times and currently XL 5W30.
Originally Posted by ARB1977
Toyota's run on just about anything. They aren't picky. I chose Amsoil, that's right I said the A word. SS 0W30 a few times and currently XL 5W30.
Is that better than the oil ad244 linked for $3.95 a quart?
Toyota's run on just about anything. They aren't picky. I chose Amsoil, that's right I said the A word. SS 0W30 a few times and currently XL 5W30.
Is that better than the oil ad244 linked for $3.95 a quart?
Originally Posted by ad244
Pretty hard to go wrong with this stuff for under $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...;linkId=6a24adf6fabc32e0a723d94f1d7a15a6
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...1/idemitsu-0w-20-5k-2014-venza-v6#UNREAD
Pretty hard to go wrong with this stuff for under $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...;linkId=6a24adf6fabc32e0a723d94f1d7a15a6
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...1/idemitsu-0w-20-5k-2014-venza-v6#UNREAD
I have the 2GR-FE engine in my 2016 Sienna which I think is very similar to the engine in your vehicle. I just switched it from TGMO 0W-20 synthetic to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 and I can tell you the engine is running much quieter, feel smoother and better fuel economy on the highway. I also made a similar change to this oil, but in the 5W-30 variety, for my Lexus LS430 with identical results. I am very impressed with this oil, give it a try and report back. I feel it is superior to the TGMO.
It doesn’t matter what oil you use. Our 3.5L Toyota 2019 blew two engines in the first year. One engine with TGMO FF and one with PP. if it’s defective it will blow no matter what. If it’s not it will last with any oil that meets minimum specs.
So after nearly 3 years my 2018 is about to turn 50k miles. It has run 0w20, 5w30,10w30 and 0w40 oils in this time.
I am currently settled in Kirkland 5w30 for 7500-10k intervals depending on how much towing , dust and idling the truck sees. The engine is starting to break in.
I am currently settled in Kirkland 5w30 for 7500-10k intervals depending on how much towing , dust and idling the truck sees. The engine is starting to break in.
How did that happen?
3 Blown Engines This year
So this weekend our 2015 Pentastar ate the camshaft at 72k miles. This is our 3rd major engine failure this year. I change the oil before the 10k miles recommendation. I follow maintenance and breaking in procedures by the book and yet here we are. I use Full Synthetic Oil. My Charger has had...
bobistheoilguy.com
Perhaps you've answered your own question.
It’s probably been 3 years since but, if I remember right, I read somewhere on this forum that TGMO 0W20 has better flow in cold temperatures and better shear numbers than the rest. The closest equivalent would be M1 AFE 0W20.
that being said I used quality oil in my new outback for 3 years/59k at 6k OCIs and it still burned oil when I sold it. No need to lose sleep over what oil you’re using as long as it meets the minimum standard. If your motor is gonna blow it will blow no matter what you do.
I’m personally a fan of valvoline. I like how simple their bottles look.
that being said I used quality oil in my new outback for 3 years/59k at 6k OCIs and it still burned oil when I sold it. No need to lose sleep over what oil you’re using as long as it meets the minimum standard. If your motor is gonna blow it will blow no matter what you do.
I’m personally a fan of valvoline. I like how simple their bottles look.
Poor quality. It threw a rod bearing at 2,700 miles. They put in a new short block. Then it started leaking oil so they did a gasket kit. The HG blew around 5k miles. I. The first year it was on engine number 3 fuel pump number three. The speedometer quit working and the fuel door had gotten stuck closed. So when the HG blew we were out of town and the local dealer refused us warranty because they said our warranty was tied to the dealer that did the engine swap and we would have to pay out of pocket. Less than 1 year old and about 5k miles it was fixed by Toyota under warranty and another dealer denied warranty repair because of it. Called Toyota corporate and they confirmed that was their policy. Our first and last Toyota will never buy another one. No reason to make a trip and ownership more stressful when it’s still under the bumper to bumper warranty.
I was sitting at a red light and the car started shaking and the check engine light started flashing. I used PP it’s entire life and never went the recommended 10k mile oic. It was replaced under warranty.
**** man that sucks. Toyota has awesome reliability. You should of played the lottery. I’ve had awesome luck, knock on wood with Toyota’s. I miss my old 3.4L but the 4.0L is just as good.
Yeah we traded in a 2011 Dodge Durango with 172k miles on it for something that has blown engines before oil changes are due.
Sorry about the bad luck with an engine but Toyota made good by replacing and entire short block with a new one from the factory. At that point it sounded more like a bad dealership install/repair of the new motor and that replacement block was OK. In any case you Lemon Law’ed the vehicle. Don’t know why the sad tale has any relevance at all to OP’s choice of motor oil.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2020
- Messages
- 11
You got a bad Toyota? Wow, what are the odds?
Like the fellow above, I, too, thought Mathew should start buying lottery tickets, simply because the odds of getting a bad Toyota are pretty **** high. Then I remembered that I, too, had gotten a bad one. A '90 Camry. Misfitted piston set (undersize) ; crazy rod knock @ 2k rpm. Engine rebuilt (short-block installed) under warranty at 800 miles. Ran like a nuclear reactor for years after that. That and the fact that Toyota USA couldn't have been more responsive in dealing with the issue for a first-time Toyota buyer sold me on the brand. (Of course, I'd prefer to win the lottery.)
We will now return you to your regular programming . . . .
I guess Toyota put all of their “reliability” efforts into the engine and not their frames.
Edit: And DEFINITELY not into door lock actuators or their terrible Delphi sourced HVAC components. Then again it’s easy to be “reliable” when it comes to tech when your solution is to simply not install any...
Edit: And DEFINITELY not into door lock actuators or their terrible Delphi sourced HVAC components. Then again it’s easy to be “reliable” when it comes to tech when your solution is to simply not install any...
Sour grapes. Does it really matter how they got to be #1. What are you driving, some FCA rat trap?
Similar threads
- Question
