Help reading SDS

[kschachn]

Not that I know of… I’m having a problem keeping an oil in the 30w range for 3,000 miles with this car. It’s a TGDI 2.0 and it will turn a 10+ CST at 100c to a >8.6 in 2,750-3,000 miles. This run is Castrol Edge High Mileage 5w30. I’ll sample at 3k and see if it shears or fuel dilutes to a 20w. If so, I’ll most likely try a 10w30 something and possibly a 5w40 down the road. This oil is actually proving to have slightly better fuel economy than the past oils. It’s only been in 1,100 mile so far though so definitely not conclusive. I’m. Only gathering info from the SDS to try and learn the differences and see if one holds grade better than another. Really just trying to learn.

If you have fuel dilution which is likely, no brand or base composition will withstand that better than any other. Only grade can do that.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

If you have fuel dilution [...]

[...], you need to fix it, or minimize it as much as possible.

 

[mpgo4th]

If you have fuel dilution which is likely, no brand or base composition will withstand that better than any other. Only grade can do that.

Which is why I’m researching and looking for answers as to which oil will stand up to fuel dilution better. A 10w30, 5w40, euro 5w30 who knows. I’ve got a couple of UOA on the forum showing my diluted used oil. I’ve use QS full synthetic 5w30 before but wasn’t able to sample at the time. On paper it’s one of the most robust 5w30 I’ve found. I may run that again and sample. I just have a hunch that a 10w30 (possibly QS) is just what this engine needs.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

I just have a hunch that a 10w30 (possibly QS) is just what this engine needs.

Trying to fix your problem with motor oil is like attempting to cure cancer with vitamins and supplements.

 

[mpgo4th]

Trying to fix your problem with motor oil is like attempting to cure cancer with vitamins and supplements.

Its an inherent problem with direct injection. There is no fix. I’m not trying to fix anything. I’m trying to prolong my engine life.

Would you not agree that if I ran an oil that actually stayed in the specified grade through an OCI that the results could possibly be less wear on internal parts?

 

[PimTac]

Which is why I’m researching and looking for answers as to which oil will stand up to fuel dilution better. A 10w30, 5w40, euro 5w30 who knows. I’ve got a couple of UOA on the forum showing my diluted used oil. I’ve use QS full synthetic 5w30 before but wasn’t able to sample at the time. On paper it’s one of the most robust 5w30 I’ve found. I may run that again and sample. I just have a hunch that a 10w30 (possibly QS) is just what this engine needs.

There is nothing on a safety data sheet that will tell you how an oil will perform with fuel dilution. As mentioned already you will have to step up a grade to have any meaningful effect or change your oil more often.

The winter rating has no relevance in this equation.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

Its an inherent problem with direct injection. There is no fix. I’m not trying to fix anything. I’m trying to prolong my engine life.

Would you not agree that if I ran an oil that actually stayed in the specified grade through an OCI that the results could possibly be less wear on internal parts?

Here are the problems:

1. You're only thinking viscosity. Fuel dilution affects ZDDP and other additives, as in, it diminishes the oil's ability to do its job and protect your engine. Beefing up the viscosity alone won't be enough for you to keep your engine in good shape.
2. Some fuel dilution is normal, excessive fuel dilution is not. It's either driver induced due to short tripping combined with using cheap fuel (it's a T-GDI), or due to carbon buildup on the intake valves (not enough air gets into the combustion chamber - air/fuel mixture might be incorrect), or leaking injector(s). There are many other factors to consider. Find a good mechanic that is professional and specializes in European vehicles. Pay to have your vehicle diagnosed correctly.

High quality engine oil is meant for preventative maintenance. Think of it as eating healthy, taking your vitamins and supplements, using decent care products, etc. All those items help you live a healthier life, but none of them will help you limp along or fix you if you get sick. The same is true for motor oil: it just can't fix mechanical problems. That's not what it's meant to do.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

I have no idea. I was lost at hydroisomerized. Is that a lesser grade than a group 3 product?

Hydro-Isomerized - Hydrocracked waxes are reconstructed into a liquid and have excellent low temperature properties. These base oils are GTL (Gr 3+) and behave a lot like PAO.

Gr 3 can have hydro-isomerized wax added to it.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Which is why I’m researching and looking for answers as to which oil will stand up to fuel dilution better. A 10w30, 5w40, euro 5w30 who knows. I’ve got a couple of UOA on the forum showing my diluted used oil. I’ve use QS full synthetic 5w30 before but wasn’t able to sample at the time. On paper it’s one of the most robust 5w30 I’ve found. I may run that again and sample. I just have a hunch that a 10w30 (possibly QS) is just what this engine needs.

There's no "problem" with fuel dilution per se. IMO it gets over 5% then it's a problem which points to a mechanical issue otherwise I would not get obsessive over it.

 

[Revving2Redline]

was wondering if someone can give me layman's answer to what I am looking at with the SDS and Tech Sheet for the Hotshots Transmission Restore. If someone can also explain what it means,etc that would be helpful and I'd be greatful too. Thanks

Currently using it(Hotshots) as the BG CVT 303 additive I couldn't get anymore and retail shops want over 35$ a can and I gave the last two cans of the BG to daughter in her junky Nissan Jatco CVT transmission that I managed to save with Castrol Transmax/BG 303.

 

[blufeb95]

was wondering if someone can give me layman's answer to what I am looking at with the SDS and Tech Sheet for the Hotshots Transmission Restore. If someone can also explain what it means,etc that would be helpful and I'd be greatful too. Thanks

From what I can find "11138-60-6" is a type of polyol ester oil, so the SDS just says it contains mostly polyol ester oil and says nothing else, if it contains anything else it's proprietary and is not of health concern that it must be disclosed.

 

[Revving2Redline]

From what I can find "11138-60-6" is a type of polyol ester oil, so the SDS just says it contains mostly polyol ester oil and says nothing else, if it contains anything else it's proprietary and is not of health concern that it must be disclosed.

so is that okay? sounds like it's safe?

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

It’s Castrol Edge High Mileage 5w30. I did a VOA and it didn’t look very impressive on paper. I’m going to run a UOA at 3k miles and see where we’re at with it. Want to see if it’s worth the price.

Not being rude here, but use the search function. There are many, many posts by oil formulators and industry insiders on here that are counter to your beliefs.

1. A $30 oil analysis is not going to tell you if an oil meets a given spec, or how well the oil will perform.

2. Many of today’s additives will NEVER show up in a UOA, and those can be the things that separate the “meets the spec” oils and the “no holds barred, top shelf” oils.

Run it whatever OCI you normally do; Edge is a good oil and OAs aren’t representative of certifications or performance levels. If your engine is a diluter, you only have two choices to extend your OCIs- start using a 40w oil, or keep really short OCIs.