I have a 2002 Taurus/Vulcan. Replaced idler pulley & whole tensioner assembly & put on a new Dayco belt--still squealing. Put on a Goodyear Gatorback (not cheap) belt and squealing stopped. Been good for over 6 months, but fingers are still crossed.
help me please. 2002 ford taurus. Couple of issues
- Thread starter misswolfxd
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If there was no misfire codes stored, the cat(s) could be plugged causing your low power condition. Or, you have been driving the car so long with it running poorly it ruined the cat. Many things can cause misfires, this is why you should bring the vehicle to a shop with the proper diagnostic equiptment.
This car needs to be driven with a scan tool to watch live data to see whats happening when its running poorly.
Get the running problem fixed then worry about the belt noise.
This car needs to be driven with a scan tool to watch live data to see whats happening when its running poorly.
Get the running problem fixed then worry about the belt noise.
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Well the hubby just pulled the fuel filter off and it was full of nasty rusted gas. He is in the process of putting the new one in. I will let u all know if that is the problem. If its not maybe i can find a mechanic work with u
The light didn't go off.
Well it didn't go off but then we were informed that we needed to disconnect the battery for a few minutes so the computer could reset itself. We connected it back and turned on the car and the light is off now. I'm wondering if I have to drive it for a bit to know for sure if its fixed.? It would be sweet if it is only a $12 part. Cross your fingers!
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Simply changing the fuel filter won't help you on the P0420 code. I will take a few drive cycles for it to set again, but it'll be back.
If your check engine light was flashing, there was quite likely a misfire occurring. Does the engine need tuned up? Is the ignition coil pack functioning properly? (Common failure on this engine) are plug wire arcing to ground or each other? Using a simple spark tester may yield the answer.
If you have the money to spare, invest in a scan tool with live data. It will make helping you easier. However, if you're not too good turning wrenches or don't own much in the way of tools, then maybe it is a wiser idea to bring it to a mechanic with a good reputation and have them fix it.
If your check engine light was flashing, there was quite likely a misfire occurring. Does the engine need tuned up? Is the ignition coil pack functioning properly? (Common failure on this engine) are plug wire arcing to ground or each other? Using a simple spark tester may yield the answer.
If you have the money to spare, invest in a scan tool with live data. It will make helping you easier. However, if you're not too good turning wrenches or don't own much in the way of tools, then maybe it is a wiser idea to bring it to a mechanic with a good reputation and have them fix it.
Yep. the light came back on. No we don't have any extra money for the scan tool. I I'm going to have a mechanic look at it monday. im just at loss here. my van is breaking down at the same time as the car. the money situation is not good right now. sigh... thank you.
While replacing plugs and wires hubby noticed wires 5 & 6 were backwards. Could this have been the problem???
Nope.
If it's a Vulcan the squealing is probably the cps as mentioned previously. It's well documented on TCCA forums. If you get it replaced make sure to avoid Dorman for this part, they are known to fail much faster than the Motorcraft part.
Sounds like you just have a laundry list of problems which is common with these cars. I know I have a 99 vulcan myself it has lots of issues but usually still goes from a to b.
Lets just say I'm relieved it's not my only car anymore.
Sounds like you just have a laundry list of problems which is common with these cars. I know I have a 99 vulcan myself it has lots of issues but usually still goes from a to b.
Lets just say I'm relieved it's not my only car anymore.
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The easy way to tell if the cat has melted down and is causing this trouble is to simply remove the front O2 sensor and let it hang then start the engine.
It will be loud but the check engine light should go out and the misfire should stop. If it does you know you need a cat.
If money is tight a good used one from a junk yard maybe an alternative to an expensive original.
It will be loud but the check engine light should go out and the misfire should stop. If it does you know you need a cat.
If money is tight a good used one from a junk yard maybe an alternative to an expensive original.
Carquest replaced the belt. SO FAR Its not squeeling. Now I am wondering what the firing code is on the plug wires. They were 123465. We had bought new plugs n wires yesterday for it. Hubby didn't think that was right. I looked up the firing code on the INTERNET and the diagram that I found didn't match how they had it. So he put them on how the diagram showed and it popped,spit. n sputtered. So he put them back how they were originally and its idle is smooth. So at this time we are really confused!
I have another question. As i was reading this code print out i noticed that the Oreilleys guy typed in that it was a DOHC and that it was a LX. This is wrong! Its a OHV AND NOT AN LX. Will that possibly throw a wrong code??????
Originally Posted By: misswolfxd
I have another question. As i was reading this code print out i noticed that the Oreilleys guy typed in that it was a DOHC and that it was a LX. This is wrong! Its a OHV AND NOT AN LX. Will that possibly throw a wrong code??????
No. The code numbers will be read correctly. Descriptions (in words) may be incorrect for the wrong vehicle, only for codes higher than P1000 and usually not within the same manufacturer and close year, but the number reported will still be correct. Codes with numbers P0xxx are universal.
That said, has the misfire been resolved yet? The most common causes would be a faulty coilpack, PCM, or eroded spark plugs. If it only happens under load (on your uphill) you can rule out the PCM. Spark plugs are easy enough to look at and will usually be worn to twice the spec. gap before you experience this problem.
I have another question. As i was reading this code print out i noticed that the Oreilleys guy typed in that it was a DOHC and that it was a LX. This is wrong! Its a OHV AND NOT AN LX. Will that possibly throw a wrong code??????
No. The code numbers will be read correctly. Descriptions (in words) may be incorrect for the wrong vehicle, only for codes higher than P1000 and usually not within the same manufacturer and close year, but the number reported will still be correct. Codes with numbers P0xxx are universal.
That said, has the misfire been resolved yet? The most common causes would be a faulty coilpack, PCM, or eroded spark plugs. If it only happens under load (on your uphill) you can rule out the PCM. Spark plugs are easy enough to look at and will usually be worn to twice the spec. gap before you experience this problem.
Originally Posted By: Trav
The easy way to tell if the cat has melted down and is causing this trouble is to simply remove the front O2 sensor and let it hang then start the engine.
That would be difficult to do on this vehicle without a lift. An easier (but less reliable) test would be:
Hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum and tape it to the windshield. Find a nice long stretch (preferably an upgrade) with little traffic and accelerate gently. If opening the throttle and increasing engine speed cause vacuum to drop this suggests an exhaust restriction.
Increasing engine speed should increase vaccuum if all were healthy, but with a clogged cat (or a clogged air filter) the vacuum will decrease instead.
If vacuum increases until misfire occurrs and then vacuum suddenly drops and the needle shakes, nope, not a clogged cat.
The easy way to tell if the cat has melted down and is causing this trouble is to simply remove the front O2 sensor and let it hang then start the engine.
That would be difficult to do on this vehicle without a lift. An easier (but less reliable) test would be:
Hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum and tape it to the windshield. Find a nice long stretch (preferably an upgrade) with little traffic and accelerate gently. If opening the throttle and increasing engine speed cause vacuum to drop this suggests an exhaust restriction.
Increasing engine speed should increase vaccuum if all were healthy, but with a clogged cat (or a clogged air filter) the vacuum will decrease instead.
If vacuum increases until misfire occurrs and then vacuum suddenly drops and the needle shakes, nope, not a clogged cat.
No it hasn't been resolved. Funny thing is we replaced plugs n wires in it but when we use the correct firing order it spits n sputters. If we use the firing order it came to us with it idles smoothly???
Originally Posted By: misswolfxd
No it hasn't been resolved. Funny thing is we replaced plugs n wires in it but when we use the correct firing order it spits n sputters. If we use the firing order it came to us with it idles smoothly???
This is likely to be a small matter of confusion. The cylinder firing order is actually 1-4-2-5-3-6.
If you look at the coilpack like a distributor it appears to be 1-2-3-4-6-5 but that is not the firing order. There is no rotor following a circle in that little box. Instead it fires the 1-5 coil, then 3-4 coil, then the 2-6 coil, then it starts all over again. If you were to number the posts on the coilpack they would be a row of 1-2-3 and one of 5-6-4 in the same direction. You can safely swap and of the three pairs and it does no harm and will continue to function the same except that the electrical polarity is reversed.
Basically, if it doesn't misfire at idle there's no reason to worry about the firing order. It is correct or you've swapped a pair on the same coil which is effectively the same as correct.
No it hasn't been resolved. Funny thing is we replaced plugs n wires in it but when we use the correct firing order it spits n sputters. If we use the firing order it came to us with it idles smoothly???
This is likely to be a small matter of confusion. The cylinder firing order is actually 1-4-2-5-3-6.
If you look at the coilpack like a distributor it appears to be 1-2-3-4-6-5 but that is not the firing order. There is no rotor following a circle in that little box. Instead it fires the 1-5 coil, then 3-4 coil, then the 2-6 coil, then it starts all over again. If you were to number the posts on the coilpack they would be a row of 1-2-3 and one of 5-6-4 in the same direction. You can safely swap and of the three pairs and it does no harm and will continue to function the same except that the electrical polarity is reversed.
Basically, if it doesn't misfire at idle there's no reason to worry about the firing order. It is correct or you've swapped a pair on the same coil which is effectively the same as correct.
It is the catylatic converter. :-(
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