Heavy trailer towing - what oil to use?

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I thought this was an oil discussion group. I'm looking for oil advice.

I'll rebut with some comments:

- The OEM Saturn 2000 lb (200 lbs tounge wight) rated hitch attaches to the car with 3/16" plates of steel installed inside the trunk, with 1/2" bolts clamping the plates down, going through the floor, through two additional welded layers, the edge of the main chassis stiffeners (looks similar to a frame, but it's welded directly to the trunk) and then into the hitch.
- The stock suspension and chassis is very stiff - stiff enough to provide a very stable ride with the trailer behind. I've improved this by installing Moog CC681 rear springs and the car (and trailer) sits level, fully loaded with the trailer attached (165 lb toungue weight).
- Also, the aftermarket adjustable 16.5 mm rear sway bar provides even more stability.
- The 205/55R15 tires resist lateral motion well.
- Braking is handled with a top of the line Prodigy inertia brake controller.
- Large Mckesh rear view mirrors provide excellent view behind/beside the trailer.
- The pop-up camper actually weights 1385 lbs, but is closer to 1700-1800 when loaded.
- When closed the camper is less than 4 feet high so the aero drag and cross wind push isn't that bad.
- The setup is so stable that there is no tendancy at all for any unstable sway to occur. At highway speeds, emergency manouvers can (and have been) be achieved with ease, with no jacknifing instability at all.
- The setup handles well enough, twisty, mountain roads can actually be fun (although I'm afraid of the trailer tires not being up to the task).
- My wife is even willing to drive.
- I've been towing for over 20 years and as far as stability & braking this is one of the easiest TV/trailer combinations to drive. My current 1 ton Chevy truck (almost 7000lbs itself with both tanks full) with 300 hp, towing the loaded 8000 lbs float is far less stable, has less get up and go and is in general more of a chore to drive.
- There are many pickup trucks out there hauling more than twice their own weight behind them. I'm hauling a little more than 1/2 (when the car is loaded).
- Power to weight: truck + 8000 trailer = 2 hp/100 lbs, loaded car + trailer = 2.8 hp/100 lbs
- Truck seats 3, no A/C, get's terrible fuel economy - car seats 4, A/C, cruise, good sound system, and gets 28 mpg (Canadian gallon) when towing.
- On the negative side, the engine's power is in the 5000-6000 rpm range, so it will see a fair bit of that when climbing hills.

Yes, there are more ideal tow vehicles. This is what I've got at the moment, it works well enough for me and the engine is probably the biggest weak link (IMO - although if I'm willing to rev it up I don't slow traffic).

Can we have an oil discussion?

Steve
 
Steve,

If you want to try a 40wt, I'd definitely consider the Mobil Delvac 1, 5w-40, which is a very high quality synthetic. I think it would work very well in this application and is available in Walmarts in Canada ....

TooSlick
 
BTW Norm & anyone interested,

It is my first Saturn and I bought it after much research into the durability of various cars (I also had a $3500 GM Visa incentive). It seems if you drive these cars hard they just don't break - nor burn too much oil (baby them and they will burn more oil - especially pre 1999). The high mileage guys on the Saturn mailing lists are typically getting 300-400,000 miles between rebuilds with oil consumption being the reason (sticking piston rings). The guys racing them are only rebuilding the engines to get more power (then they sometimes blow up).

I bought it new (custom ordered) in late 2000, fully loaded, including the leather package & alloy wheels for $17,500 Canadian ($11,500 US) after the rebate. I broke it in carefully for the first 1000 kms and have driven it hard since.

The only "durability" problems so far - I just changed both outer tie rod ends and the exhaust resonator (cracked at weld). I changed the front pads at 130,000 kms (I've worn out a few sets of racing compound pads & rotors on the track though). Everything else is original.

0-60 times are a fairly consistent 7.9 seconds according to the G-tech pro (one magazine claims 7.6, but I can't beat 7.8 - and I have sticky tires). It gets 46-48 mpg on the highway.

Even the 4 wheel independent suspension is well designed. I've run the suspension geometry and it's surprisingly good. 0.1°/in of bump steer in the rear, -0.1°/in at the front, decent roll centers, scrub radius, & spring rates.

On the track with the 205/55R15 Michelin Pilot XGT V4's and the rear sway bar set on stiffest it will out corner most of the cars I've run against (without slicks - even some with), including BMW 325, 328, 330, 540, Porsche 944 turbo, Civic SiR's, 1.8T Golf's, Focus ZX3, Sentra SE & SER, newer Mustang GT's, etc. (of course on the straights I have a little trouble with some of them). Twisty, short tracks like Shannonville is where it shines.

On the negative side there are a number of annoying rattles, there were a number of warrantied build problems (power window switch, broken seat bolster, ECU timing retard bug, rattles, etc.), the body panels line up like a cheap plastic car, the gearbox is a little notchy, the suspension is a little underdamped (IMO), it now burns a little oil, the A/C isn't that powerful and whistles on recirc, and it looks like - well - a Saturn (not my favorite styling).

They are a popular car around here, but I'm not one of the typical "Saturn family" types. I bought it for functional/performance/price reasons not the no hassle sales, etc. (I'm a mech. engineer).

For the price I'm very happy with it.

Steve
 
Regarding the original post:

Why is true? I have not heard this before.

".....5th gear provides very little manifold vacuum and I don't want to sludge the engine up."

As far as oil advice, I guess M1 0W40 would be OK. It's readily available and best of all it's ... OK and readily available.

Your biggest problem is which route to cross the Rockies. There are great knee puck slider roads or boring interstates. I can't help you with the boring routes but I can recommend some of the more scenic and twisty roads between Denver and the left coast.
 
I was doing a little more digging and found a new (to me) oil - Delvac 1. It seems to be a synthetic flavour of the Delvac 15w40. It's a little thinner - 15 cSt at 100°C and it's rated as a 5w40.

I don't know what it's worth - or where to get it.

Mobil 1 0w40 wasn't on the shelves at the local stores. Normally I've always shyed away from wide multigrade oils because I'm concerned about the viscosity modifiers breaking down.

Satterfi - 5th = sludge:

As far as the intake manifold is concerned an engine is a vacuum pump. The throttle is a restrictor on the inlet to the manifold. Open the throttle, especially at lower rpms and the vacuum drops. A friend of mine develops OBD II I/O systems - so I'm often running with real time sensor outputs. When cruising in 5th with the trailer, the manifold "pressure" almost equals atmospheric pressure - or no vacuum. Since the PCV system requires manifold vacuum to suck (sludge forming condensable) vapours out of the engine to allow them to be reburnt, no vacuum = no positive ventilation = sludge build up (I'm not sure how fast, but it definitely will build up faster).

Steve
 
But the engine is hot at these operating conditions so condensation is not a factor.

Not all 4 stroke engines (ie motorcycles) have PVC systems so I don't see why you have to have one to keep the oil from sludging.


quote:

Originally posted by SaturnSL2:
....
When cruising in 5th with the trailer, the manifold "pressure" almost equals atmospheric pressure - or no vacuum. Since the PCV system requires manifold vacuum to suck (sludge forming condensable) vapours out of the engine to allow them to be reburnt, no vacuum = no positive ventilation = sludge build up (I'm not sure how fast, but it definitely will build up faster).

Steve


 
“Normally, I've always shyed away from wide multi-grade oils because I'm concerned about the viscosity modifiers breaking down.”

That was always my thinking as well but some of the newer synthetic formulas (others here can list which ones if they’d like, I’m not too sure about brand compositions anymore) do not use more polymer VII (Viscosity Index Improver) but instead use a higher ester content and these highly stable esters have a natural wide temperature spread without the use of unstable goo.

So, some of those wide multi-grade prejudices may be becoming dated.
dunno.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
I'm not even close to an expert regarding engine sludge formation and I am very interested in knowing more about this topic.

My understanding is crankcase gasses (blowby), which are typically dirty enough to be smokey, contain all sorts of nasty contaminents. Everything from carbon soot to various acids are in some level of suspension in the gasses.

The detergents in the oil can deal with a lot of these, but only for so long before it starts to break down and get contaminated. These saturated gasses will condense/particles fall out of suspension both in the oil and on any slightly cooler surface (since the blowby is very hot, the gasses cool as they pass through the engine). This scum builds and hardens, eventually turning into the hard, crusty crap you see under the valve cover and plugging the return oil gallies.

The better the crankcase ventilation system, the more of this crap is removed from the crankcase - hence less sludge and longer oil life.

What I wonder is: Is there enough blowby in my car in 4th that the PCV system is already not useful?

When an older engine (more blowby) is working very hard, the PCV system is often overloaded to the point that these gasses actually flow both through the PCV valve and out the crankcase vent (instead of fresh air sucked in).

At this point, the PCV system is doing little and the oil has to deal with the maximum amount of the blowby contaminants. The question in my mind is - is this occuring in 4th gear? If so, perhaps 5th gear would actually be easier on the engine.

Maybe I can devise some sort of test to find out... Hmmm long hose connected to breather, running into car to see if smoke comes out while towing in 4th...

Steve

[ April 23, 2003, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: SaturnSL2 ]
 
Now I'm off topic...

I've been reading a little more and have pretty much decided to run a 15w40 heavy duty oil. Probably either Delvac, or Penzoil long life.

I like the fact that the Penzoil has lots of moly and detergents in it, so it seems like a good candidate. The Delvac has less moly.

The question now is do I simply run regular oil until the day we leave - or is there an advantage to running the HD fleet oil earlier. My concern is being so thick when cold, lubrication may be weak during startup and initial running. On the other hand the extra detergents may clean up the engine ahead of time so as not to contaminate the oil as much when working hard.

(the other question is now 4th or 5th gear)

Steve
 
Steve,
Mobil Delvac 1 is Mobil's synthetic 5W-40 oil mainly for heavy truck engines. Try looking for it at a truck stop or truck supply store. Due to the 5W viscosity, it'll flow fine when cold. It's certainly good for more than 2500 miles...some truckers are running this for 50-60,000 miles.


Ken
 
Saturn

The Delvac 1300 has less Moly but more Boron.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000054

I would install the oil the night before the trip.

If you can obtain Delvac 1, this would be the better choice for all your driving conditions.
I assumed from your previous posts that you did not have access to Amsoil, Schaeffer, or Delvac 1.

As my Moma used to say, "Quit worrying and go..go"

[ April 23, 2003, 03:00 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
I don't know anything about Boron as an additive and couldn't find anything in a quick search of this board.

How does it compare to moly? I notice the Penzoil long life has both lots of moly and a fair bit of boron.

I notice Delvac 1 has zero moly, but lots of boron.

I guess in my case any of these will probably do as it will be mostly highway cruising - hopefully lubricated hydrodynamically.

You assume right - I didn't find any of those at the local CT's and Walmarts (but don't mind looking a little harder). How expensive is the Delvac 1. The Delvac 1300 15w40 was quite cheap - $12 (Canadian) a bottle.
 
Delvac 1 at our truckstops runs about $6.95/Qt. USD.

Boron (and Calcium Carbonates) have been formulated into a new set of esters as Anti-wear and Friction Modifiers.

Some time ago a Cummins article about a different type of moly additive (moly dithiophosphate) which inferred, but not proved that it created corrosion of copper metals. Well, some people with little knowledge of additive chemistry started circulating a rumor that ANY moly would corrode the copper bearings of diesels, which is an INCORRECT statement . This caused Mobil to leave out ANY moly whatsoever in the Delvac 1 formulation and substitute concentrated Calcium and Boron.

Go with the Delvac 1300 and you will have all the protection you need.
smile.gif


[ April 23, 2003, 04:52 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
BTW, when I said the Delvac 1300 was $12/bottle - that was for a 4 liter (a little over 4 quarts) bottle (about $8 USD for 4 quarts).
 
Look for Delvac 1 at Walmart in the "heavy duty" section, not the normal "auto" section. It should be in a black 4L jug, it only comes packaged like that. It's a lot more expensive than the Delvac 1300, about $8 per L or $32 for the jug I think.

Here in Toronto the local Noco outlet sells the M1 0w40 for $7.25/L. Maybe you can find a distributor like that in Ottawa. Good luck.
 
Long time Saturn owner here.

I like the M1 0w40 for your application. Get lube to the timing chain fast. Autozones all carry it.

I'm worried about your cooling system being up to the job. My Saturn didn't kick on the cooling fan until the temp was WAY up there. I'd suggest looking into wiring up a manual on switch to activate the cooling fan. That way, you can kick it on at the start of a long hard grade instead of the car waiting until the temp is almost critical to turn on the fan. Heck, you just might want it on all the time with that load.

How old is your coolant? If it's more than a year or two old, consider flushing out the system and refilling before your trip.

Check out Saturnfans.com and PM Wolfman or Luke to get instructions on the fan switch.
 
I searched for the Delvac 1 and asked the guys at the auto counter. They apparently don't sell it at our local Walmart.

I ended up picking up 2x 4 liter jugs of Delvac 1300 15w40. I'm going to wait until it warms up considerably before running it (just changed the oil a few hours ago - 10w30 Quaker State).

Steve
 
I haven't had any trouble with cooling pulling the trailer yet...

When it was +33°C (~90°F) last year (towing an older Bonair pop-up - similar weight), with the A/C on fairly high, the temperature gauge sat around 3/8ths of the way up cruising at about 110 km/h (70 mph) - on the flat.

It was obviously close to the limit though. It normally sits at 1/3 and the gauge would wander a little if I pushed it harder (went up a small hill) or eased off a little. I have also noticed if I'm towing without the A/C on (cooling fan off) and I come to a major slow down or hit city traffic the temperature shoots up to about 1/2 quickly and then the fan kicks in.

I do plan to run 70% water (50/50 now) and was thinking about adding some Redline water wetter as well. Anyone know if it is compatible with Dex-cool?

Steve
 
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