Heavy oil RANT!

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quote:

GM would push 0W-20, but they don't.

No ..they don't recommend it ..but they do sorta use it. The current use of dino 5w-30 over the current normal OCI will result in the oil being a 20 weight.

They probably bank on this. Much like I think Amsoil banks on thickening for their extended drains. Their engines may have been able to complete some determined life cycle without undue failure due to using 20 weight oil ..but there was no such product on the market that could also meet their energy use reduction via the maintenance schedule. GM was probably not pressured like Ford to improve CAFE numbers that allow Ford to sell all their high profit gas guzzling vehicles. Hence Ford was the market leader in having this oil produced. Now that it is in production, you may see GM follow suit.
 
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Originally posted by BlazerLT:
Patman is probably freeing up a couple HP and MPG by using 0w30, getting better startup protection and less engine wear than anyone.

I though we went through this lesson already? CG is one of the most viscous 0w30s around except for Esso XD3 0w30. And Patman uses it in Toronto year round in his LS1 AND his wife's Honda. Lack of the energy star symbol indicates it's not designed to improve fuel mileage.

I give up. Unless you begin to look at actual viscosities vs. temperatures you'll never understand.
 
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Originally posted by 427Z06:
Unless you begin to look at actual viscosities vs. temperatures you'll never understand.

Sorry for the newbie question, but I'd like to understand so can you please tell me how to do this. Considering that I have 300° in-the-pan oil temps I would like to be able to at least estimate what the viscosity of the oil is while in use where it is most likely a fair bit hotter. Thanks.
 
BlazerLT, If all youare doing is looking at the first digit on the oil bottle and assumeing that a 0WXX oil must be thinner and more energy conserveing then a 10W30 or 5W30 you need to review how that rateing is issued and how viscosity is determined. You are missing a lot of details. GC is thicker and has a higher HTHS then M1 10W30! It lacks the Energy COnserveing seal for a reason!

I think that you, Dr. Hass and bugshu need to try to make fewer blanket statments based on SAE viscosity rateing becasue they just do not work when formulated oil is being discussed. This is especialy true when you do not have one specific application in mind!
 
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Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
BlazerLT, If all youare doing is looking at the first digit on the oil bottle and assumeing that a 0WXX oil must be thinner and more energy conserveing then a 10W30 or 5W30 you need to review how that rateing is issued and how viscosity is determined. You are missing a lot of details. GC is thicker and has a higher HTHS then M1 10W30! It lacks the Energy COnserveing seal for a reason!

I think that you, Dr. Hass and bugshu need to try to make fewer blanket statments based on SAE viscosity rateing becasue they just do not work when formulated oil is being discussed. This is especialy true when you do not have one specific application in mind!


You just don't get the point of this thread do you.

This is NOT about thin oils, IT IS ABOUT STOPPING PEOPLE FROM RECOMMENDING RIDICULOUSLY THICK OILS FOR ENGINE THAT DON'T NEED IT .
 
But you don't get it! XW40 is not "A ridiculously thick oil" It may be to you but not the rest of the world. I can walk in to Repco around the corner from my office and buy 40W70. XW40 is thin to medium.
 
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Originally posted by sprintman:
But you don't get it! XW40 is not "A ridiculously thick oil" It may be to you but not the rest of the world. I can walk in to Repco around the corner from my office and buy 40W70. XW40 is thin to medium.

Please understand, I am talking about people using thicker oils than what is supposed to be used in their engines.

Not the worldwide definition of what thin or medium oils are.
 
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Originally posted by BlazerLT:
... This is NOT about thin oils, IT IS ABOUT STOPPING PEOPLE FROM RECOMMENDING RIDICULOUSLY THICK OILS FOR ENGINE THAT DON'T NEED IT .

And I think everyone's saying this just doesn't happen here. But maybe that's just my Black&Tan talking... (my B&T would be coffee, followed by beer, followed by more coffee
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Originally posted by Grossomotto:

quote:

This is NOT about thin oils, IT IS ABOUT STOPPING PEOPLE FROM RECOMMENDING RIDICULOUSLY THICK OILS FOR ENGINE THAT DON'T NEED IT .

How about if you are trying to slow an oil leak?


Fix the leak, don't starve your engine for proper lubrication by using thick oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
BlazerLT, If all youare doing is looking at the first digit on the oil bottle and assumeing that a 0WXX oil must be thinner and more energy conserveing then a 10W30 or 5W30 you need to review how that rateing is issued and how viscosity is determined. You are missing a lot of details. GC is thicker and has a higher HTHS then M1 10W30! It lacks the Energy COnserveing seal for a reason!

I think that you, Dr. Hass and bugshu need to try to make fewer blanket statments based on SAE viscosity rateing becasue they just do not work when formulated oil is being discussed. This is especialy true when you do not have one specific application in mind!


This coming from a guy that recommends a 15w50 for a 1992 Toyota Celica with 209k on the odometer?

Gimmie a break.
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For example:

quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
98Cobra, Valvoline Maxlife is not usualy a good buy! In my neck of the woods they want between $21-$23 dollars for 4 quart jug. You can get a 5 quart jug of Mobil-1 Extended Performance 15W50 for $23 and it is a much better product then MaxLife Synthetic!!! Mobil-1 is 100%Synthetic and they gurnatee the product for 15,000 miles or 1 year! So that increases the vakue added right their! Walmart has the 5 quart Jugs for $23.

This is the stuff I am talking about. 15w50??!!
 
I'm with ya Blazer,you set the board on fire.!!!! O dubya is in..Good discussion going here...Keep it coming...Feel the love for the 0w20..
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Gosh, let's see:

In the first example the guy's already using 20W-50 & he's being told that 10W-40 or 15W-40 should be good.

In the second, the guy's not asking for anything in particular & the suggestions range from 10W-30 thru 15W-40, but nobody's really pushing any vis very hard.

In the last example, we have another guy who's "always" been using 20W-50 (in an engine with over 200k miles on it!), but is asking about 5W/10W-30s. Not too surprisingly, he gets answers that range from 5W-30 thru 15W-50.

I'm shocked, shocked I tell you!
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