So I'm in the middle of a timing belt change on my son's car, but waiting for a part to be delivered in a few days. I needed to do an oil change on it also. I know that it's best to drain oil shortly after a car has reached normal operating temp, but given the fact that the car can't be started now, can't I just take a heat gun and warm up the pan to get a more effective drain out? Thanks.
Heating the pan
- Thread starter Jarpin
- Start date
Sure... Or you could just drain it cold and avoid the mental gymnastics
Just drain the oil
in this case just drain it. don't think it's that cold in texas right now, is it?
Lol...thanks. mental gymnastics avoided.
I have over 200,000 miles on an engine that was not warmed up for more than the time to start it and drive it forward onto the ramps. No I wouldn’t bother to warm it. 
Agree with everything being said. Even more, with a heat guns you'll likely burn the protective paint on your oil pan (or even burn the pan itself if it's plastic as on some Ford and VW). Just drain the oil and don't look back.
Drain the oil cold, it isn't going to make any difference in the world for the one time you're doing it. If you feel bad about it let the oil drain an extra hour or so.
Since it's setting for a while, just let it drip.
I agree with all of the above suggestions, and technically, all the "bad stuff" is now in the pan after sitting for this long.
If you wanted another alternative, they do make a magnetic, electric pan heater that you might find a useful addition to your toolbox.
If you wanted another alternative, they do make a magnetic, electric pan heater that you might find a useful addition to your toolbox.
Just drain it. Worry about something else if you must. Ed
I have never changed oil on a warm motor if I have the option to skip it. The cool oil comes out just fine. maybe it flows slightly slower, but I know it has all drained into the pan after sitting over night meaning less mess when taking the oil filter off and much less likely to get hot oil all over my hands/arms. Also, I am much less likely to burn myself by accidentally touching the exhaust.
no it's clining to the metal parts in the engine. But heating the oil just in the pan won't get the warm, higher solubility oil all over the engine to suspend the varnish precursors again.
If the oil was hot while it was running and all the oil went to the pan when it was shut off, how is that any different than draining the oil hot?
Since you are already doing internal engine work, I would wait until the work is complete. Run the car long enough to confirm everything is functioning properly then change the oil.
good point
I supose mainly the stuff that fell out of suspension in the pan. How hot was the oil at last shutoff though?
I supose mainly the stuff that fell out of suspension in the pan. How hot was the oil at last shutoff though?
Thanks for all the replies fellas, I learned some new stuff in the process. I just changed it today. Jacked it up to one side in the morning, and loosened the plug just enough for a small trickle for the whole day. Dripped until nothing left in the evening. Worked out great.
I've been changing my own oil for about 44 years and you could probably count on your fingers the number of times I've changed oil on a hot engine. I normally try to change oil after the car has been sitting all night and is stone cold. When it's been sitting for several hours as much oil as is going to has already drained to the oil pan so pulling the plug just lets it out.