Headlight Lens cleaner?

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I have sandpaper in 1000,1500, 2000,& 2500 and plan to install new bulbs..9012 in place of 9006 for improved vision. I want to know if any cheap wipe on wipe off product will be able to remove oxidation from the light housing? Also, is 2500 grit fine enough or go for 3000? All tips appreciated thx! smile
 
<span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">I haven't tried sandpaper on headlight lenses, but that Meguiar's plastic cleaner works pretty good.</span>
 
I go 1000, 2000, then to a paint polishing compound. Oxidation is a change in state of the plastic housing. You can't really reverse it with a WOWO product, just remove it. Regardless... It should only take 15-20 minutes to do both lights. It's pretty quick. Faster than a trip to the store to find something else
 
Check out this stuff called Light Rite. You sand the lense down then spray with the clearcoat included. We sell this stuff at work. I'm taking this stuff to the local Lexus dealer all the time. They love it and the lights come out looking really good and clear. http://searchautomotive.net/
 
Do you have a wool pad, rotary and compound? After sanding to 2500, the lenses will be cloudy. You will need to remove the sand scratches using a wool pad (or heavy foam cutting pad) and a rotary, followed up by a medium polishing on a medium polishing pad (to remove the micro-marring).
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Do you have a wool pad, rotary and compound? After sanding to 2500, the lenses will be cloudy. You will need to remove the sand scratches using a wool pad (or heavy foam cutting pad) and a rotary, followed up by a medium polishing on a medium polishing pad (to remove the micro-marring).
I have a HF DA, would that do the job? I have 3 foam pads for compound, polish, and wax..so i guess i could go with the compound pad. You think using a compound followed by polish should clean things up nice?
 
NO sand paper unless you know what you are doing. Use Meguiars PlastX with some passion by hand with a foam pad or a DA. apply a dime size amount on pad and rub HARD across the lens until product becomes clear. then wipe off with MF towel. a little dab will do it. you probably will have to do this twice or more depending on cloudiness. works awesome followed up with Plexus. thumbsup
 
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If they're really yellowed and rough I start with 800 or even 400 then work up to 2000, then do the steps in the $8 turtle wax kit, they come out great. I still have to use the polish from the kit every 6 mos. or so after.
 
PlastX is about $5 at Wally World. The Plexus is hard to find local. Bought mine at a motorcycle dealer, check around. Amazon has it. Down side it is pricey, about $24..... crazy good thing with Plexus I use it on my glasses, etc. one thing I have learned about detailing is start with the least aggressive product then work your way up.
 
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I'd give PlastX a try before going to sandpaper and other methods. PlastX, a few paper towels, and a little elbow grease did a great job on our Saturn.
 
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
I'd give PlastX a try before going to sandpaper and other methods. PlastX, a few paper towels, and a little elbow grease did a great job on our Saturn.
Yep!!! thumbsup Great job, it does take some elbow grease.
 
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Don't forget to end with a UV blocker or sealant of some sort. I've used one from BlueMagic or good 'ol 303 protectant.
 
any liquid UV blocker you need to keep on top of it and keep applying or protecting the blocker layer, otherwise all your elbow grease will be wasted pretty quickly. If you can't trust yourself to stay on top of it and prefer to save your elbows and just do it once, you need to take a big step up and apply a PPF on top of your uv blocker once it's all done. The PPF will additionally (minorly) improve the clarity as the adhesive will fill in minor imperfections, while the toplayer is factory smooth.
 
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Been using bluemagic headlight polish with a 3in wool pad on my drill for a long time now. Works great. Uses diminishing abrasives so initial bite is aggressive but finishes perfect. Word of advise try not to work it until dry...but if you do just wipe clean with qd or ipa... and reseal/wax/protect when done.
 
There's a video going around on Facebook where a guy uses some Repel mosquito repellant with 40% DEET. He just polishes the headlight with a rag soaked in the DEET. Don't know how well it holds up. Everything I have ever tried takes off the protective coating and then you need to start redoing the treatments every 6 months or so.
 
There is another video showing the after effects of the Deet. It does clean but it is literally melting the plastic and can destroy your clear coat paint if it came in contact with it. Look for video from ChrisFix.
 
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