Havoline Dino 5W/20 SL Honda Accord 2003 I-4

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My third post for this car in just under a year. Again, nothing spectacular, rather boring which I guess is a good thing. First oil was Valvoline 5W30 SN, second was QS 5W30 SN, this one was Havoline 5W20 SL, all dino.
 
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Yep, there it is in black & white. Havoline is a much more stout oil than Valvoline. ...and yes, I have used Valvoline in the past.
 
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Consistently awesome. Rock on! . I hope I love the new SN Havoline as much as I do the SL and SM. I've only got 4 SM changes worth left.
 
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What is the Air filter and Oil filter?
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
FP 450 ?!
It must have been a typo, ARCO. Blackstone meant 540 F. wink
^Best post of the year for the UOA sub-forums! crazy
 
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Oh, and the other thing is...does Havoline still have 5w-20 SL dino available to the OP? If so, there you go. If not...? Strange comparing API SN to API SL here, all dino. whistle
 
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I like the comment about carry over oil. Although perhaps a bit of an exaggeration, it does put a spot light on the "benefits" of some people's insistence on 2 hour drains prior to reinsertion of the drain plug and what real benefits it actually yields.
 
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"most people don't realize how much carry-over stays in the engine when the oil is changed" ...yeah, including Blackstone themselves.
 
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High % of the polar metal compounds are on the surfaces and dont drain - regardless of drain time. You'll see Na and Mo and Zn carryover from a "dry" engine.
 
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vintageant, thanks for posting. Yes it's an excellent report. As I've said before, there really isn't much advantage in running a 5W-20 syn' over a premium 5W-20 dino oil. If one is going to upgrade to a syn' oil, go with a 0W-20 to take full advantage of the inherently higher VI. The 5W-20 is after all a dino grade.
 
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Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Best post of the year for the UOA sub-forums!
Well, a 450 F flash point for a conventional is way out in left field. Considering flash point is one of the more relevant stats from a UOA, one would hope it would be accurate. 450 F? Why not 540 F? Why not a million F? Their virgin SN/GF-5 conventional doesn't have a flashpoint that high, and this sample shows a bit more than a trace of fuel dilution. We have people obsess over irrelevant parts per million of iron in UOAs, and this flashpoint has raised few eyebrows? I'd be asking Blackstone about this, and if they stand by it, I'd ask them how many other conventionals with 0.5% fuel dilution also tested to a 450 F FP.
 
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I've said it for years-the open cup flashpoint is near useless. To get accurate fuel dilution values you need a closed cup flash or GC like Dyson or Polaris.
 

vintageant

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Air filter is K&N, recently cleaned and re-oiled. Oil filter is standard white Purolator. Last OC after this UOA was Havoline 5W20 SL dino again. I now have 3 bottles left which will be mixed with another 5W20 next time around.
 
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^Not bad silicon for a K&N, looks good. Otherwise, try upgrading to a Purolator PureONE to see if the insols can track down.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Best post of the year for the UOA sub-forums!
Well, a 450 F flash point for a conventional is way out in left field. Considering flash point is one of the more relevant stats from a UOA, one would hope it would be accurate. 450 F? Why not 540 F? Why not a million F? Their virgin SN/GF-5 conventional doesn't have a flashpoint that high, and this sample shows a bit more than a trace of fuel dilution. We have people obsess over irrelevant parts per million of iron in UOAs, and this flashpoint has raised few eyebrows? I'd be asking Blackstone about this, and if they stand by it, I'd ask them how many other conventionals with 0.5% fuel dilution also tested to a 450 F FP.
I'd bet a typo and FP more like...350?
 
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