Havoline 10W30 Dino, 6021 miles, 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 FFV

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Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger Supercab, 2WD, automatic transmission Engine: 3.0L V6 FFV Total miles: 68,184 Oil type: Havoline 10W30 Dino Oil interval: 6,021 miles Oil filter: Wix 51516 Makeup oil: None Sump capacity: 4.5 quarts Air filter: Wix Comments: Miles are 50% highway, 50% rush-hour traffic. During this interval, I started using Neutra in the gas with a couple of double-dose applications followed by normal dosage. The last 2000 miles I switched to using the FP/Neutra 3:1 Molabrew at rate of 1 oz to 5 gal.
code:
Lab used:      Blackstone
Report ID:     C20040
Report date:   06/10/04

Miles on oil    6,021     6,894 
Miles on unit   68,184    62,163    Universal
Sample date     05/22/04  11/28/03   Averages
               
Aluminum           2         3          4
Chromium           1         1          1
Iron               7        11         18
Copper             1         1          6
Lead               9        12          7
Tin                3         0          1
Molybdenum        65        19         29
Nickel             0         1          1
Manganese          0         0          1
Silver             0         0          0
Titanium           0         0          0
Potassium          2         0          1
Boron             56         0         46
Silicon           21        23         15
Sodium             5         5         16
Calcium         1951      2144       1859
Magnesium         27        12        316
Phosphorus       754       683        769
Zinc            1083       846        914
Barium             0         0          1

SUS [email protected]   *58.0      61.8
Flashpoint       410       385
Fuel%           <0.5      <0.5
Antifreeze       0.0       0.0
Water            0.0       0.0
Insolubles       0.2       0.3
TBN:             2.2       2.2

My comments: Previous oil was SuperTech Full Syn 10W30. I knew I was going to do an AutoRx treatment after this, so I ran the dino to 6K just to see a dino oil (probably Group II+) go the distance. After all, I know a few people on BITOG who have a hard time running even synthetic this long [Big Grin] [Razz] You can see where the oil viscosity sheared down quite a bit. I still don't know where the silicon is coming from. I replaced the filter, vacuumed out the housing, and wiped down all the surfaces. I'm beginning to think it comes from the EVAP system. I'll try some grease on the filter sealing surfaces just for grins. The replacement oil was the same oil and filter along with a bottle of AutoRx. A copy of the report was sent to Terry for his expert opinion. All other comments welcome [Cheers!]
 

JoggingGuy

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quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn: Other than silicon being a bit high, things look good for 6K on dino! This 3.0L has always been my favorite Ford engine..it lasts as long as any of the foriegn engines. If they could only get more HP out of it! [Smile] I bet the engine will outlast the truck it resides in! How long do you plan on keeping this vehicle?
I like the engine too, but not the pinging it does. I'm getting ready to put some colder plugs in it. I have input from some other Vulcan owners that said the colder plugs fixed the problem. And I plan on keeping it for a long time. At least another 5 years [Cheers!]
 
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joggingguy - thanks for the numbers. BTW, what plugs are you going to put in it? Son-in-law has same engine, with what's called a typically rough idle, and we heard that Ford's current plugs of the past couple of years, are too hot for this engine. Good also to know it will last a long time.
 
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Other than silicon being a bit high, things look good for 6K on dino! This 3.0L has always been my favorite Ford engine..it lasts as long as any of the foriegn engines. If they could only get more HP out of it! [Smile] I bet the engine will outlast the truck it resides in! How long do you plan on keeping this vehicle?
 

JoggingGuy

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quote:
Originally posted by jbas: joggingguy - thanks for the numbers. BTW, what plugs are you going to put in it? Son-in-law has same engine, with what's called a typically rough idle, and we heard that Ford's current plugs of the past couple of years, are too hot for this engine. Good also to know it will last a long time.
That's also what I've heard in the forums over at fordtrucks dot com. I replaced the factory plugs with AGSF22PP double platinums 15K ago, but it still pings. Bob Ayers installed AGSF12PP plugs to solve the problem, but they've been discontinued. The only replacements he could find were the new Motorcraft fine wire platinums, and the replacement part to get is AGSF12FMF6. None of the dealers here in Houston have this plug, but they list it and can get it. They were cheaper on fordparts dot com, even with shipping included. They list them there as AGSF-12F-MF6. I'm getting ready to order a set sometime soon. I'll probably install them when the AutoRx rinse is completed in a few thousand miles.
 
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Kingsland, GA
quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn: Other than silicon being a bit high, things look good for 6K on dino! This 3.0L has always been my favorite Ford engine..it lasts as long as any of the foriegn engines. If they could only get more HP out of it! [Smile] I bet the engine will outlast the truck it resides in! How long do you plan on keeping this vehicle?
If they could get more HP out of it the UOA probably wouldn't look as good as it does. [Wink]
 
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New Hanover, PA
This is a very good UOA for 6,000 on a dino oil. I use dino Havoline 5W-30 in my 99 Taurus (has a Duratec). I have never done an analysis on the Taurus, but I bet it would come back nice with this oil. Keep using it. [Off Topic!] Advanced auto has an advertised $10.59 per case of Havoline (with rebate) or just .88 per quart! I think I will be stocking up...
 
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I agree, the 3.0 is a great motor(had a 1999 ranger) but the ping and the power suck. I made mine stop piging by replacing the oem thermostat with a jet 180 degree. The heater performance slacked a little but it quit pinging.
 
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Pinging?Tuneup/timing/heat/octane/carbonbuildup....... Get a colder thermostat or a new OEM one. Do you need a working heater in Tx? Flush that antifreeze. I'd also give Redline waterwetter a shot prior to the flush. It might help. Plugs are a good choice. I also vaguely remember that some Tauri had a different front/rare plugs. I just used some autolite double platinums and didn't worry about it! Maybe you can xreference the Ford plugs with some other brands for the colder option! Improved air cooling(like cold air intake) is an option. Or, does coolant flow around the intake/TB or manifold? Can it be bypassed? Reduce underhood heat. Insulate wrap the exhaust manifold or buy "coated" headers. And, you're definitely due for a FI cleaning. I'm a firm believer that a bottle of FI cleaner should be used regularly(like an OCI). Toss in a bottle of BG44k and continue with the FP/Neutra! The secret to this engine is that it isn't making enough power to create wear. Where's the stress when the 3.0 makes <150hp? I like this engine. I'd rather have a torquey V6 compared to revvy 4cyls.
 
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Can we assume that this is the "newer" TBN method ..and that the 2.2 is actually far better than the "older" 2.2?? Anyway ...you're one of those that proves that 5k isn't something like the light barrier. Congrats [Cheers!]
 
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