Have you ever had motor oil tested? Why?

So you proved that the OLM is correct, Conventional oil can go alot of miles, and the 3,000 mile oil change is a waste.... :)
Well, at least it was then, on a 2004 Chevy Silverado 5.3. GM was huge back then on lowest cost per mile and reducing environmental impact.
Not too many years after that, and on various engines, the OLM maximum was reduced by various amounts.
It could have been done for lots of reasons like squeezing more HP out of a certain displacement engine, turbocharging, more stress on timing chains, maybe even lower quality timing chains, who knows.
I think the only special GM spec back then was GM 4064 or something like that. Low temp pumpability I think it was. And conventional SL I think. It's been a long time.
At any rate, I still believe in the GM logarithm for oil degradation, as long as oil specs are met.
For the Mercedes, which is a simple "day counter", not so much. Even though most oils spec'd for those vehicles will last the whole year.
 
Yes. Numerous threads about the 2.7EB and reduced OCI's. Some guys claiming they wouldn't trust anything past 3k. So I ran a Blackstone after 8k and 10 months. According to them, I could have gone to 10k. At least I know I can now and worry about my engine and Blackstone's findings and not anything else.
 
I've considered having some of my recently acquired Royal Triton from the 50s tested, just to see what was in it, but I really dont want to open the cans. They are quite nice. On the other hand, pouring purple oil is cool. 😁
 
I am thinking of having the factory fill on our 2020 Jetta analyzed. Not to see wear (will be high) but to see the add pack on the VW factory fill.
 
Some guys claiming they wouldn't trust anything past 3k. So I ran a Blackstone after 8k and 10 months. According to them, I could have gone to 10k.
That's the irony... So many insist others get an oil analysis and then when the results contradict their (old) beliefs, they conveniently ignore the test results.
 
I have tested my 2012 Ram Cummins 2500 several times trying to get a trend on wear metals and fuel dilution in a diesel.

I have tested the wife's 2014 T&C a couple times just to check in, and the 2005 Jeep after an overheating issue.

Just my $0.02
 
the interval was like 12,000 miles at that time on Havoline conventional 10W-30.
Test came back fine, and could have gone a bit longer, much to the amazement of all....
Most oils, and most filters can go 10K in most applications (of course there are a few exceptions). The UOA's confirm it over and over but many die hards won't believe it.
 
I do my own oil changes and I sample every oil change everything to prove its getting changed and to see if my water pump in my duratec 35 is leaking. So mainly for warranty purposes.
 
I do my own oil changes and I sample every oil change everything to prove its getting changed and to see if my water pump in my duratec 35 is leaking. So mainly for warranty purposes.
For the price of the oil and filter and then the analysis, why not just pay the dealer to do the oil change. There will be proof for "warranty purposes" as well this way.
 
For the price of the oil and filter and then the analysis, why not just pay the dealer to do the oil change. There will be proof for "warranty purposes" as well this way.
Because I like changing my oil and have trust issues. I also have a lot of shell RGT that I got for 2 bucks a quart and a case of rockauto close-out champion filters for a $1 a filter. The filter has silicon ADBV and is rated at 10k. I can change my own oil cheaper with analysis done then letting them do it.
 
Just did my first oil analysis:

 
For the price of the oil and filter and then the analysis, why not just pay the dealer to do the oil change. There will be proof for "warranty purposes" as well this way.
If you are changing your own oil, just save the receipts, and I use the inside back cover of the O.M. to list Date and Mileage of OCI and the oil Brand/Grade and Filter Brand and p/n.
Easy if you are not lazy.
Most ALL dealer grease monkeis (who are NOT mechanics) screw up oil changes.
NO thanks, BTDT, and got burnt over and over.
 
If you are changing your own oil, just save the receipts, and I use the inside back cover of the O.M. to list Date and Mileage of OCI and the oil Brand/Grade and Filter Brand and p/n.
Easy if you are not lazy.
Most ALL dealer grease monkeis (who are NOT mechanics) screw up oil changes.
NO thanks, BTDT, and got burnt over and over.
Words cannot describe then fury they will experience if they mess my car up. Theres only one person I know that ill let work on my car cause he treats every car as if it was his.
 
For the price of the oil and filter and then the analysis, why not just pay the dealer to do the oil change. There will be proof for "warranty purposes" as well this way.
I negoiated the maintenence package with FCA when I bought my RAM. I think I got a pretty good deal.
 
Words cannot describe then fury they will experience if they mess my car up. Theres only one person I know that ill let work on my car cause he treats every car as if it was his.
That's the Guy you want. That is how I serviced cars when I was a mechanic; I ALWAYS strove to do my best work - plus I wanted to show off my skills. I loved it when customers came back and would say, " My car hasn't run this good in years - thank you!"
Hearing that made me feel I was doing my part.
I don't know about some folk's work ethics .... maybe they feel stuck and hopeless.
 
Yes. For me, it's interesting and a good indicator of engine health. It can tell you if your OCI is optimal. It can catch issues before they become serious. And even if it's a perfect UOA, it's still fun and interesting to see.
 
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