Has info. from this website caused you switch your motor oil ?

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Yes. If it were not for this board, I would have never known about the new German Syntec 0w30 (Formula SLX in Europe). I kept an eye out for it at my local Autozone, and as soon as it showed up, I got some and put it in my Chrysler. I had been using Mobil 1.
 
I used to only run Mobil 1. Since then I have used Delvac 1, Schaeffers (syn/Blend), Rotella T Syn
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, also switched Mother-in-law's car to non syn (she puts on 2000 miles/year. I have also done a fair # of oil analysis. This board changed my life
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This site definitely opened my eyes! I was a diehard Mobil 1 fan for a while, but just before this version of the board opened up, when it was still on the old software, I switched to Maxlife, since the original formula of that stuff got rave reviews.

Then from reading this site some more, I got turned on to Schaeffer Oil.

I also found out about the German 0w30 Syntec from here, thanks to Dr.T spotting it at Walmart here in Ontario.
 
Mark, Ha Ha , Yep the ole Auto Barn sale today & I've even sent off my rebate coupon ! { yes I have no life & an ex wife, need all the $ I can get !}
As far as the Citgo comparing to Penzoil with my truck I think it's a no brainer in the sense I'm using a qt. every 1000 miles, GIVE ME THE .69 special !
There's a lot to be learned when you get 20,000 motorheads & weekend wrench turners together, that's for sure.
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quote:

Originally posted by Scali62:

Today I bought Citgo @ .69 a qt after rebate for a case purchase.
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I figure I owe this website a " thanks " for saving me $ & the education !
LOL
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Glad you are here
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Unless I am missing something-what in this site made you go with the Citgo when there was only one Used Oil Analysis on this oil-and it wasn't that hot
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Maybe we are not doing our job here
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It was hot, If I remember right it was a Dodge Caravan 3.3 with 150k on it where the oil analysis of Citgo showed mostly positive results. Then I did a search on Citgo on the car & truck lube board { this one } & liked what I read. THEN after seeing it on sale this morning for the price of a small cup of coffee per qt. I used the info my neurons gathered & bought a case ?
Maybe I should also state I'm using the Citgo in a 10 yr. old pickup but still I guess we made 2 different conclusions about Citgo oil.
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You bet !!!

I was happy with Castrol Syntec 5W50 until I saw sludge beginning to build up under the valve cover. I thought a more "robust" oil like Amsoil might alleviate the condition and allow for an extended drain. Someone on this board (can't remember who) said, use oil to lubricate and a cleaner (like Auto-Rx) to clean. I am now using Auto-Rx.

Based on the comments here, I have also decided to try German Syntec instead of Amsoil Series 2000 0W30. The Castrol is 2/3 the price, commonly available (here in Canada) and appears to have no deficiencies when compared to the Amsoil.

I, like Buster, will not attempt an extended drain without the help of a UOA. Again, something I learned from this forum.
 
No. I'm still using the same old oils I always have. But my wife is gone now. She told the judge I thought oil was better than se, well you know....
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Not at all. I've been using M1 for years as in 20 years ago in the silver cylinder cans but this site only has confirmed my beliefs.

It hasn't changed my mind about why I use what I do.
 
Sure I changed which oil I use since logging on.
I read what the experts are using, then do the complete opposite.
(Remember I have the same birthday as Hillary R.)
Everyone is saying not to use a straight weight in newer vehicles, so I put SAE 30 in a 03 Focus and a 00 2.5 Cougar.
SAE 40 is too heavy for a 3.8 V-6 Ford?
How have I managed to put 4,000 miles on just that in the last 6 weeks?
Last week I went halfers on a 5 gallon pail of SAE 50 with a co-worker (600 Honda 01), and I'll use my half next summer in one of those newer cars with those tight clearance engines.
I should run the 50 from May to October and send in a 10,000 mile UOA.
 
Before I discovered this site, I weighed 125 pounds and could not lift even a 1 qt bottle of German Castrol without breathing hard. My personal trainer, Hans, used to laugh at me and call me a "veaklink" (whatever that is) but now...oh oh, sorry, wrong website.
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[ August 24, 2003, 04:37 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 
Yes & No.

I'm not going to buy M1 anymore for the cars. They will get the same Redline the bikes get.
 
No.

I use to search for the best dino oils back in the late 80's for use in my 86 Ford escort GT and found that none would make it to 3000 miles without the engine starting to get louder. I used the noise as a barometer of the life left in the oil. the longest I could go was about 2500 miles with Castrol GTX, about 2000 with the others, 1500 with Quaker State. Don't knkow the cause of the engine noise but it always went away after an oil change.

I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic in a new Honda Accord in 1990 and immediately extended the change interval to the maximum recommended of 7500 miles. Even took it to 10k once when I was moving across country and didn't have the time to do the change myself.

I kept the Honda on Mobil 1 until I sold it almost 6 years ago.

I have been using Amsoil on the vehicles I plan on keeping a long time. I do 25k on the gasser with bypass and 20k on the diesel without. Oils are 10w30 and 15w40.

My main criterior for oil is that it last a long time in my vehicles as I do not like to crawl under them any more than is absolutely necessary. If I can spend 5-6 dollars a quart for 20+ thousand miles and save myself 6-7 trips under my vehicle then I consider it money well spent.

I would rather have the time on my hands to do other activities as well as the money in my pocket.


I plan to go bypass on the diesel and switch to 5w30 series 3000 and go for oil analysis every 10k.
 
Hmmmm, I blame this web site for causing me to have nearly $1,000 worth of oil in my 'shrine'
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. I used to only buy oil as I needed it. Now I have stockpiled oil with the intention of giving it a try in something/somebody's car.

I have definitely learned that Neutra and #132 moly additive work wonders in my lawn mower.
 
Yes!! I went from Valvoline to Castrol GTX then finally Penzoil Multigrade. 5w30 in the winter, 10w30 in the summer. Thats all I need, here in MI, the body rusts out long before the engine wears out.
 
Before finding this site I used Valvoline and Fram filters in all my vehicles. I have switched to Castrol GTX and Chevron Supreme motor oil and use OEM filters on the Toyota. The other vehicles get Bosch or Super Tech filters. Oil and filters are changed at 3,000 miles, if I can wait that long. Also, have used Auto RX in them all. I now visit this place every evening when I get home from work to see whats new. I even ask the guys at work what they're using in their vehicles. So yea, you could say I've been influenced a little here. The first place I go when my wife and I go shopping is to the oil isle in WalMart. It's like I collect this stuff or something cause I buy it whether I need it or not. But, I LIKE IT!!!
 
For years I was a Penn 10w-30 with Fram every 3000 miles kinda guy. Don't know why Penn and Fram, though I suspect Madison Ave had a decisive role.

After a short run with Mobil 1 I discovered this site and Schaeffer's oil. I now spend less money on oil, get better protection and improve my things oily I.Q. nearly everyday.
 
Sure did. I learned how good Pennzoil Purebase is along with Delo 400, M1 SS, Redline, Schaeffers, Lucas UCL etc. Found out about Fram and other baddies like Motor Up etc. The surprising part was the large range of products we have access too compared to the NA market. That part I still don't understand.
 
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