Harley Davidson 360 20w50 in 2001 Twin Cam 88

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2001 Low Rider (my girlfriend's), 1450 cc Twin Cam 88 w/Screaming Eagle (K&N) air filter, HD Super Premium oil filter (10 micron). 11,500 miles on unit. 3,100 miles on oil. Three quart sump. One-half quart make-up oil, I think. Oil has been in bike for one year
shocked.gif
(We need to ride more!) Eighty percent of miles are highway miles and eighty percent of those miles are at 85 - 90+ m.p.h., or about 3,800 to 4,000 r.p.m., so it is ridden pretty hard. Rarely is it ridden less than 20 - 30 miles in an outing. It is ridden year round (except when temps get into the 40's or below.)

Analysis by Blackstone on 7-22-03.
code:

ALUMINUM 6

CHROMIUM 1

IRON 18

COPPER 23

LEAD 3

TIN 0

MOLYBDENUM 2

NICKEL 1

MANGANESE 1

SILVER 0

TITANIUM 0

POTASSIUM 2

BORON 274

SILICON 36

SODIUM 3

CALCIUM 1478

MAGNESIUM 820

PHOSPHORUS 941

ZINC 1245

BARIUM 2

SUS @ 210 81.4

FLASH 405

FUEL
AF 0

H2O 0

INSOLS 0.4

TBN 3.1


Blackstone comments: Wear is so close to average that is is almost scary. We have seen nine samples from the TC-88. Silicone high ... suggest checking your air filtration. Oil was still in good shape. TBN probably started out at 7 or 8. Suggest leaving this oil in use for 2,000 more miles and resample ... .

My comments/questions: mikeyoilnutt posted a VOA done by Oil Analyzers on HD 360 20w50 on 1-13-03. (Don't have the URL to link, sorry.) Except for Boron, Magnesium and Calcium numbers look pretty consistent. This analysis has about 40% more of each. (Blackstone's Universal Averages, used oil I presume, for Boron is 211, Magnesium is 661, Calcium is 1915.) Could this be lab testing variations as we have seen with some recent VOA postings? If not, this shouldn't be a bad thing, should it? Aren't these AW/EP additives instead of wear indicators? The SE air filter appears to be problematic. They say not to clean them because they are more effective the dirtier they get. Anybody have any ideas to make it work better? Even though the oil is a year old, the additive package, TBN and viscosity aren't too shabby. Anybody got any concerns with running it a while longer? Would a new oil filter get the silicon out?

After contemplating everything I've read in this forum I'm going to Mobile 1 V-Twin 20w50 at next change on my bike. Girlfriend is sticking with the HD stuff. Maybe she is on to something. HD oil is around $3, M1 is $8 at parts store but I found it at Wal Mart for $6.77 on clearance.

Next UOA will be Castrol HD 30 in a 3.0L GM marine engine at the end of boating season. Anybody got a VOA on it?

[ July 30, 2003, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by doyall:

After contemplating everything I've read in this forum I'm going to Mobile 1 V-Twin 20w50 at next change on my bike. Girlfriend is sticking with the HD stuff. Maybe she is on to something. HD oil is around $3, M1 is $8 at parts store but I found it at Wal Mart for $6.77 on clearance.


Why not try out Amsoil 20w50 for V-Twins at $6.55 + shipping. Perhaps one of the Dealers here will give you a good price if you promise to do an analysys and run it to 6k miles.
 
wulimaster, after I use up the M1 I have I think I will try Amsoil. My neighbor uses it in his 4 vehicles so maybe he is on some type of preimum plan where he can get it at a decent price and will let me buy it through him. Otherwise, I might try to elicit some type of arrangement like you suggest. Thanks for the idea.
 
quote:

Originally posted by doyall:
After contemplating everything I've read in this forum I'm going to Mobile 1 V-Twin 20w50 at next change on my bike. Girlfriend is sticking with the HD stuff. Maybe she is on to something. HD oil is around $3, M1 is $8 at parts store but I found it at Wal Mart for $6.77 on clearance.

Why not use Mobil1 "red cap". About the same price as HD oil (which I believe is repackaged / repriced Sunoco), but the Mobil 1 is a group IV syn and should be a better oil.

From what I've read, Mobil 1 "V-Twin" and "MX4T" aren't much (any?) different from "red cap". Just repackaged as a motorcycle specific oil with a higher price.
 
quote:

Originally posted by doyall:
...The SE air filter appears to be problematic. They say not to clean them because they are more effective the dirtier they get. Anybody have any ideas to make it work better? Even though the oil is a year old, the additive package, TBN and viscosity aren't too shabby. Anybody got any concerns with running it a while longer? Would a new oil filter get the silicon out?...

A paper air filter would serve you better. It's true that the K&N efficiency will improve as it gets dirtier but so will paper's efficiency, so the K&N never catches up to paper. Since dirt must pass by the piston, rings, and cylinders before the oil filter can remove it the top end will suffer a lot of abrasive wear before the oil filter can help.

Here's another example of a motorcycle oil that sheared out of grade in low miles. The VOA that mikeyoilnutt posted was 21.42cSt. This has sheared to 15.88cSt--almost 26% viscosity loss!
 
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