Happy dino guy thinking about switching to syn

[bottgers]

I'm currently using Havoline 5W-30 dino with PureOne filters and I think this is a very good oil/filter combo. However, I put a lot of miles on my '99 Corolla (approx 3K a month), and I'm thinking about switching to a full syn to extend my OCI's. My current OCI is 6K and I'm thinking about switching to the 15K Mobil 1.

One thing I like about my current OCI is the oil never gets black. I know the oil turning black is not a sign that's it's broken down or it's not doing its job, I've always just had that "warm fuzzy" by not allowing my oil to turn black. If I were to go to the 15K OCI with the Mobil, is this oil going to turn black on me? Please help me get over my ill-driven black oil phobia.

Since I would be extending my OCI's by almost 3 times, I would probably also spend the extra money on the Mobil 1 filters as well.

Would there be any down side for me going this route?

 

[Johnny]

How many miles do you have on the car now?

For two or three changes the Mobil 1 EP will turn dark as it will be slowly cleaning some deposits the Havoline left behind.

I would think if the car is in good shape, and you do a UOA now and then, the Mobil 1 EP 5W30 will do you a good job for the 15k, especially the way you drive. One thing for sure, you have no warranty to worry about.

One more thing, I would use the Mobil 1 oil filter if your planning on leaving it on the entire time. If you use another filter I would change the filter at 7500.

 

[bottgers]

The car has 74K on it now and the oil level seems to stay right at the "full" mark on the dipstick throughout the entire OCI. I'd like to see 300K with this vehicle if possible. I know the Mobil 1 filters run about $10, but off the top of your head, do you know how much the 15K mile Mobil (5 qt jug) runs at Wally World? I'm thinking this switch may end up saving me money as well.

 

[Bill in Utah]

quote:

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but off the top of your head, do you know how much the 15K mile Mobil (5 qt jug) runs at Wally World?

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Last time I was there, it was real close to $26!

You need 4 quarts so $5.20 a quart times 4 is $21.00 for oil. $31 for the Oil change incl filter.

I would not try a 15k run unless you did a UOA or two. So add $20 around 7500-10k miles to see how it's going.

You prob can get away with running normal Mobil 1 which is $20.xx for 5 qts.

I can see why I change my oil every 5k (I'm putting 2500 miles a month on) and my oil change costs less than $5 incl filter.

I'd have to run Mobil 1 EP 30k miles to break even.

I still do the UOAs, but more for trending to see if anything pops up for the warrenty period. Once it's over (soon..) I'll do a UOA once a year and have Terry go over it for me.

I think your current oil/filter is the way to continue with.

You know it works well! And no risks of a oil leak popping up.

Take care, Bill

 

[bottgers]

I'm thinking about switching to the 15K mile Mobil. Why would I change oil that's designed to go 15K miles at 7.5K-10K when I'm already getting 6K from my regular ol' dino? The specific purpose of this oil is to extend your OCI's out to 15K. Also, what kind of oil and filters are you using that cost you less than $5 a change?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Because of your great results thus far, move up to a homemade syn-blend using the same manufacturer as now. Try a 50-50 blend. Reason-being is alot of folks stir-up crap in their engines when switching to synthetics in a used vehicle -- then all of a sudden -- engine noise & seal leaks start occuring.

Move up to all synthetic a little slower for the first two OCIs. If your 6K dino UOAs are fine, you may be able to stretch this syn-blend for 9K. Purchasing Lube Control will get you even longer. That Pure One will take you 9K.

 

[edvanp]

I'd run Havoline Syn to 9k with the pure 1 filter and then do a UOA. Actually, you could run any synthetic to that then do a UOA. I'm guessing you could probably extend it based on your driving, but better safe then sorry. A blend 50/50 to 9k would probably work too.

 

[Pablo]

At 3K per month this should be doable. What a complete hassle and waste of time to change your oil every 2 months. Your time must be worth something! Honestly - I change the oil in my over 100K Volvo once a year now, and have even done a 20K run with absolutely NO problem.

Have you done a UOA on the car previously? (maybe I missed that)

I would go 10K the first time, then go to 15K. I would advise Amsoil as 1000's of people have done this with no issues.

 

[bottgers]

Why can't anything just be straight forward? I'm more confused now than when I started this thread. Where can I buy the Shaeffers and would it be good for 15K mile OCI's?

 

[shokhead]

So you have 74K on a car and you want to get 300K so now you want to change from 6K OCI's and bettr then double that?

 

[bottgers]

Yes. I guess I didn't think that would be a problem if I were to use an oil that's supposed to be good for 15K. It should be good for that long considering its price.

 

[Volvohead]

There are a couple Schaeffer distributors right here at BITOG, including Bob himself. Check on the sponsors page. It can be delivered right to your front door.

I have yet to hear a single negative word about Schaeffer's, here or anywhere else.

 

[m2200b]

I don't think running 15K on tiny oil sump corollas with what is still the smallest oil filter on the shelf is the best combo for long OCI.

I'd just buy a fumoto oil valve to make the change quicker and effortless and keep with 5K
OCI.

 

[bottgers]

Could I get any more confusing suggestions? There hasn't been two people who agree on anything.

 

[Pablo]

Sir - it is ultimately up to you. I think you are a great candidate for extended drains. The choice of oils is yours.

I only encourage you to ease into a longer OCI and do at least one UOA, to assure all is well with your engine at that point in time.

 

[Volvohead]

I don't think many here have argued against extended drains. Some such as Pablo and I have posed some rational caveats to just doing it blindly at some randomly selected high interval. And there is no single right way to do it. Most all the oils made today are very good at longer drains . . . in the right engine.

Your situation might support 25k runs on recycled oil for all we know. Then again, maybe even Amsoil or M1 EP only holds up for 8k in your engine under your operating conditions. That's where a UOA becomes valuable in finding the limits.

Wanting a 300k engine doesn't fit with running blindly across the OCI frontier because a bottle label suggests it.

 

[jonny-b]

I would also use a maintenance dose of auto-rx(3oz)to ensure things stay clean inside your engine. Anyway, switching to a synthetic is the way to go. You will save a lot of oil-changes and time. Besides, synthetics will give your engine a better protection than a mineral oil can do.

 

[Bill in Utah]

quote:

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Also, what kind of oil and filters are you using that cost you less than $5 a change?

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Hi,

I'm using Pennzoil 5w-30 Yellow Bottle (dino) and Supertech Filters.

The oil was bought on sale (this week Checkers has Chevron oil on sale for .49 cents a quart or Quaker State for .79 cents a quart) for .59 cents a quart.

So, 4 quarts at .59 cents plus $2.07 for the filter equals $4.43 total.

I also have in my stash Castrol GTX (69 cents a quart), Chevron (49 cents a quart) and QS (69 cents a quart) all bought on sale.

Right now in my engine is Castrol GTX and Supertech filter.

Any of the SL-SM oils are going to take your Corolla down the road with excellent protection.

Your current oil and filter is excellent!

Here is a UOA of my last oil change which ran 4,910 miles durning Jan - March this year. 2005 Corolla UOA (this used a $1.99 Purolater(sp) filter instead)

As far as it being a hassle to change the oil, I drive the car up a ramp, Use a Fram Sure Drain into a container (not a single drop on the floor), get to the very easy filter and place 2 paper towels to catch the little oil that comes out and take the filter off.

Put new oil in the filter, put filter on, take off Sure Drain and put cap back on. Put in 3.5 quarts of oil, start and check for leaks on filter and back car off ramps.

Time is less that 30 mins total and maybe 10mins of my time. No biggie. Very simple to do.

Total cost for the whole year (28k of driving) oil changes? $25 This incls filters and oil.

Unless I'm at work, my time is worth nothing.

Plus I like to change oil

and check to make sure all is good. The last oil change, I put up some screen because the a/c condenser had some major rock hits and I'm concerned that one hit may poke a hole and cost some $$. So I fixed that.

Hey, it's your car.

But I think going 15k on a oil change without doing at least a UOA at 7.5k -10k to see how it is doing and then one at 15k to see how it did would be recommended.

Take care! Bill

 

[Matt89]

quote:

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Originally posted by Volvohead:
Well . . . it's not quite that straightforward.

If you read the fine print, the manufacturer's OCI still needs to be observed even with M1 EP.

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I don't agree with this. Direct verbage from the M1 EP warrantee:

"For vehicles covered by a warranty, follow the vehicle's oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual. Follow your owner's manual if the vehicle is operated in any of the following severe services: racing or commercial applications including taxis, limousines, etc.; frequent towing or hauling; extremely dusty or dirty conditions; or under excessive idling conditions. If your vehicle has exceeded the duration of the manufacturer’s warranty, ExxonMobil warrants that the Mobil 1 Extended Performance lubricant you purchased will protect your vehicle’s critical engine parts from oil related failure for 15,000 miles or 1 year, which ever comes first. If not, provided the engine was serviceable at the time the oil was installed, Exxon Mobil will have your vehicle repaired and replace the oil at no cost to you."

A 1999 Corolla with 74K is recommended for 15K/1 year drains unless you meet the 'severe' criteria, which a corolla likely does not.

Frankly, Bottgers is a great candidate for this oil. Run a UOA if you want, but if you are able to stomach a little uncertainty in your life you can save yourself a few oil changes a year.

 

[bottgers]

I guess I forgot to mention that 95% of my driving is long highway trips, which are very easy miles.