Now that I have your attention I'd like your input and suggestions for the finer points of a rather brief stay of oil: I am thinking of several plans, one could have oil in for under 6 hours. Hence the term enema. Another plan is that the oil be in only 500 miles, as in an Auto-RX treatment (I want to do 2 of these in a row). I'd like to do this late in the year (Halloween?) so that I get full life out of the current batch of RedLine, have more meaningful UOA's, and have the goodness of fresh RedLine when the bitter cold hits. Then again I saw the thread on Neo 0w-5 oil (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002708 ) and am tempted to try it for our coldest 2 months. I also saw some positive comments about M1 0w40, but my understanding is that the Neo or M1's performance at -30 will be essentially identical to RedLine's (comments??) There is a mechanic or two that wants to by-pass the by-pass oil filter (I am not making that up) and see if that has an effect on the ticking / noisy lifter / alledged 'aeration of oil.' He also wants to switch to plain oil to see if the dead dino changes the ticking. If I am going to move to dead-dinosaur anyway, should I then add Auto-RX and go 500 miles? Auto-RX with synthetic takes 1000, and I'll worry about Auto-RX not being as good as RedLine in cold weather. Auto-RX is a great product but its ability to flow when there is snow on the ground, or colder, is not what it was designed to do, know what I mean? Or are my concerns baseless? At some point I'll also take it to the mechanic that installed the by-pass filter, and replace the element. Should I change the element after I switch back to synthetic? I read "Switching back and forth between brands of oils" (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002749 ) and became concerned that going to dead-dino (500 miles with Auto-RX, then another oil change for 500 miles, with new filter and new Auto-RX) then back to synthetic, might have a bit of a down side. Then again I saw "After synthetic....is back to dino oil possible?" (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002766) and it looks OK The car has 165,000 km on it but 2 of the pistons and the cylinder head are only 18 months old. It's a Hyundai 1.6 litre Please: a) Help me plan this out; b) Keep the thread alive well into September. c) Keep the donations coming in for my head-shave for charity (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000584) If you do, I have an idea how to pay back the board. In the thread at http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000534 Patman wrote "Is there anyone here who is willing to take a sample both ways? Draw one from the dipstick and then drain the oil and draw one there too. And then see if the lab shows identical results or not. It would be interesting to see!" Offhand I'd be tempted to do so. 3MP's reply has merits, so maybe, just MAYBE, test FOUR samples, 2 from the dipstick tube and 2 via the drain plug. No guarantees, I could be laid off or have some disease by October for all I know. TIA!