Halloween enema

Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Now that I have your attention [LOL!] I'd like your input and suggestions for the finer points of a rather brief stay of oil: I am thinking of several plans, one could have oil in for under 6 hours. Hence the term enema. Another plan is that the oil be in only 500 miles, as in an Auto-RX treatment (I want to do 2 of these in a row). I'd like to do this late in the year (Halloween?) so that I get full life out of the current batch of RedLine, have more meaningful UOA's, and have the goodness of fresh RedLine when the bitter cold hits. Then again I saw the thread on Neo 0w-5 oil (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002708 ) and am tempted to try it for our coldest 2 months. I also saw some positive comments about M1 0w40, but my understanding is that the Neo or M1's performance at -30 will be essentially identical to RedLine's (comments??) There is a mechanic or two that wants to by-pass the by-pass oil filter (I am not making that up) and see if that has an effect on the ticking / noisy lifter / alledged 'aeration of oil.' He also wants to switch to plain oil to see if the dead dino changes the ticking. If I am going to move to dead-dinosaur anyway, should I then add Auto-RX and go 500 miles? Auto-RX with synthetic takes 1000, and I'll worry about Auto-RX not being as good as RedLine in cold weather. Auto-RX is a great product but its ability to flow when there is snow on the ground, or colder, is not what it was designed to do, know what I mean? Or are my concerns baseless? At some point I'll also take it to the mechanic that installed the by-pass filter, and replace the element. Should I change the element after I switch back to synthetic? I read "Switching back and forth between brands of oils" (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002749 ) and became concerned that going to dead-dino (500 miles with Auto-RX, then another oil change for 500 miles, with new filter and new Auto-RX) then back to synthetic, might have a bit of a down side. Then again I saw "After synthetic....is back to dino oil possible?" (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002766) and it looks OK The car has 165,000 km on it but 2 of the pistons and the cylinder head are only 18 months old. It's a Hyundai 1.6 litre Please: a) Help me plan this out; b) Keep the thread alive well into September. c) Keep the donations coming in for my head-shave for charity (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000584) If you do, I have an idea how to pay back the board. In the thread at http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000534 Patman wrote "Is there anyone here who is willing to take a sample both ways? Draw one from the dipstick and then drain the oil and draw one there too. And then see if the lab shows identical results or not. It would be interesting to see!" Offhand I'd be tempted to do so. 3MP's reply has merits, so maybe, just MAYBE, test FOUR samples, 2 from the dipstick tube and 2 via the drain plug. No guarantees, I could be laid off or have some disease by October for all I know. TIA!
 
Messages
209
Location
Spring TX
> Now that I have your attention The correct product to use here is at the drugstore. The brand is, ironically, "Fleet". It is clear and well-refined, but don't know what weight it is. Be sure to get the oil version and not the water version or your UOA will be really screwed up [Big Grin] [Big Grin] [Big Grin]
 
Messages
509
Location
Las Vegas, NV
I have read on this message board that RedLine oil is fairly good at cleaning the inside of an engine. Why not just change the oil filter and add one bottle of AutoRX about 750 miles before you plan to change the oil? This would be much less complicated and cheaper than doing two oil changes with "dino" oil and then changing back to RedLine. For your next oil change you could just put in RedLine oil again and not have to worry about any possible additive clash.
 
Messages
9,448
Location
USA
First the ticking valvetrain would not be caused by synthetic oil! The bypass filter if it is dual remote could be causeing oil flow issues. If it is the single bypass then I doubt you have any cause for concern.It would not be nessaray to remove the unit merely unhook it from the system and cap the fittings. Why and the heck did they repalce two pistons and a head? What failed or caused the failure? That sounds just dumb enough to be warranty work!!! Lets hope that the rest of the engine fails while under warranty so you get a new engine!
 
Messages
4,478
Location
Southern California
quote:
Originally posted by JoggingGuy: The correct product to use here is at the drugstore. The brand is, ironically, "Fleet". It is clear and well-refined, but don't know what weight it is.
Guaranteed to feel like a ton if you can hold it a full ten minutes...
 

rob-the-oil-nut

Thread starter
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Well, golly! I never thought I'd get THAT much attention! [LOL!] Sorry, Buster, the Dr put me on a whiskey-free diet, what else to do? [Wink] Pablo: I didn't mean for you to read all the links, just 'yes, yes, I read that thread' JoggingGuy: You seem to know the, uh, fleet of Fleet products rather well: If what Ray H says is true, I'll ask you a rather personal question: Is that why you are The Jogging Guy? [LOL!] BTW, "Be sure to get the oil version and not the water version or your UOA will be really screwed up" All I'm gonna say is there could be a joke about black chunks, and that is a comment I will not say anything more about... OK: Seriously: Sin City, I owe you a thank-you indeed: As you say, your idea makes sense and I feel silly not thinking of it earlier. The mechanic's desire to go to dino should not make me part with that much money. JohnBrowning, it's a single bypass, and one mechanic did think synthetic was a possible cause. The car is not on warranty: It was in the shop getting work done on the timing belt maybe a month after the timing belt had been replaced. It hopped off the pulley. One guy said they spent $3400 making things right. I was happy with that gift (it was Christmas, too) but still obsessed with leveraging the event to get 1/2 million clicks out of the car, did Google searches on how to make a car last, came up with seemingly outlanding claims on RL (which I subsequently echoed after trying it) and later found this site. [Off Topic!] but I quickly got so impressed with BITOG that I sent in $50 US. Way to go BITOG! [Canada]
 

rob-the-oil-nut

Thread starter
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
OK, I have 3 scenarios now: 1) As was suggested, remove samples & filter so I am 12 oz down, replace that amount with Auto-RX. Drain, replace with RedLine and go another year or so. 2) First go with # 1; then, since my car has 166,000 KM (over 100,000 miles) then go 500 miles with dead dino and Auto-RX. That should constitute a second treatment. 3) One of my origional plans: At roughly Halloween, drain the oil, replace with $15 oil change and Auto-RX. Repeat 1000 miles later. I'd then have the *option* of using the Amsoil flush I bought over a year ago. Either way, then I should have the cleanest crankcase around. Which is what I'm aiming for. Any furthur ideas, discussion? I know fellow BITOG members have done or plan something similar, so please let me know. THANKS!
 
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