H7 headlight bulbs ('15 BMW)

[Benzadmiral]

The stock headlight bulbs on the 2015 328i are pretty poor, so I was looking to upgrade -- not to impress anyone, but to actually see better down the road at night. There's this: https://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html Seems to me I've read positive comments about the Candlepower site here before.

These bulbs are apparently drop-in replacements (?), with the same wattage but, they say, brighter useful output and no worry about melted wiring harnesses. Anybody try these in a similar car?

 

[UG_Passat]

For H7's, I preferred the Philips XtremeVision.

Juicing up the performance always comes at reduced life. Can't get around it.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Originally Posted by UG_Passat
For H7's, I preferred the Philips XtremeVision.

Juicing up the performance always comes at reduced life. Can't get around it.

True enough. I'll have to look at the manual to see how involved the replacement procedure is. The job on my Regal was unpleasant -- not a lot of room in that engine compartment for a normal-sized hand to get to the bulbs, and the windshield washer reservoir was very close to the driver's side headlight. Maybe the BMW will be easier.

 

[drtyler]

Not uncommon for the headlight aim to be off. You may want to check that also.

 

[CharBaby]

Exactly!
My daughter's '06 Mazda3 had H7 bulbs. Even the cheapest H7s work fine once the headlight housings were aimed correctly. I don't know of another bulb# that works or fits.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Originally Posted by drtyler
Not uncommon for the headlight aim to be off. You may want to check that also.

Are there specs somewhere, i.e., "Headlights should be set at the center notch of the adjustment wheel," or something like that?

ETA: Found this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...ghts/63-10-headlight-adjustment/HoeutEYp It suggests I need a long Phillips-head screwdriver. Maybe make a 1/4 turn while aiming the lights at a blank wall, and see how it works?

 

[jeepman3071]

+1 on the Phillips XTreme Visions. I've had those in both the high and low beam on my 2009. They made a decent improvement. I also coded the car so the fog lights stay on when switching to high beams.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Originally Posted by jeepman3071
+1 on the Phillips XTreme Visions. I've had those in both the high and low beam on my 2009. They made a decent improvement. I also coded the car so the fog lights stay on when switching to high beams.

Candlepower sells those in H7 as well, for $30 for a pair vs. the Vosla $36/pair. Choices, choices.

As for coding, I have a distinct feeling I'll get into that sooner or later. Having the fogs and high beams together would be great, as would being able to have the car fold the mirrors as I lock the doors via the fob instead of my folding them with the button before I leave the car. I depend on the driver's side mirror to see if bicyclists are coming up fast before I open the door.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted by Benzadmiral

ETA: Found this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...ghts/63-10-headlight-adjustment/HoeutEYp It suggests I need a long Phillips-head screwdriver. Maybe make a 1/4 turn while aiming the lights at a blank wall, and see how it works?

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check for aim before installing the brighter E-spec capsules.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by Benzadmiral

ETA: Found this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...ghts/63-10-headlight-adjustment/HoeutEYp It suggests I need a long Phillips-head screwdriver. Maybe make a 1/4 turn while aiming the lights at a blank wall, and see how it works?

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check for aim before installing the brighter E-spec capsules.

A fellow here has an aiming video, though not specifically for BMWs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWvSWBlAwnI

He suggests that the cutoff point of the right, passenger, side headlight should be about 2" below the center line of the vehicle, and the driver's side should be about 2" below that. So if your vehicle's center line is 32" above level ground, the right side should be at 29-30", and the left at 27-28". Reasonable?

 

[knerml]

You might want to look into Philips Racing Vision H7. Reasonably priced on Amazon with good reviews.

 

[14Accent]

I put Vosla +120 9012 bulbs in my Volt, and they were slightly better but still not much of an improvement. Two different data points, but it might help in your decision.

 

[Skippy722]

Originally Posted by knerml
You might want to look into Philips Racing Vision H7. Reasonably priced on Amazon with good reviews.


This. Otherwise you can't go wrong with Xtreme Visions.

Originally Posted by 14Accent
I put Vosla +120 9012 bulbs in my Volt, and they were slightly better but still not much of an improvement. Two different data points, but it might help in your decision.


IIRC those came with 9012's from the factory, the Vosla is a little bump in top of the standard 9012. A standard 9012 blows a 9006 out of the water though. 9005 to 9011 is also a nice upgrade.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted by Benzadmiral
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by Benzadmiral

ETA: Found this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...ghts/63-10-headlight-adjustment/HoeutEYp It suggests I need a long Phillips-head screwdriver. Maybe make a 1/4 turn while aiming the lights at a blank wall, and see how it works?

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check for aim before installing the brighter E-spec capsules.

A fellow here has an aiming video, though not specifically for BMWs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWvSWBlAwnI

He suggests that the cutoff point of the right, passenger, side headlight should be about 2" below the center line of the vehicle, and the driver's side should be about 2" below that. So if your vehicle's center line is 32" above level ground, the right side should be at 29-30", and the left at 27-28". Reasonable?

Sounds about right for DOT-spec headlights and enough to meet state snuff or if you don't have access to an optical aligner.

Most European cars have ECE/DOT homologated headlights and they can be aimed visually. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

 

[Benzadmiral]

Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by Benzadmiral
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by Benzadmiral

ETA: Found this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...ghts/63-10-headlight-adjustment/HoeutEYp It suggests I need a long Phillips-head screwdriver. Maybe make a 1/4 turn while aiming the lights at a blank wall, and see how it works?

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check for aim before installing the brighter E-spec capsules.

A fellow here has an aiming video, though not specifically for BMWs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWvSWBlAwnI

He suggests that the cutoff point of the right, passenger, side headlight should be about 2" below the center line of the vehicle, and the driver's side should be about 2" below that. So if your vehicle's center line is 32" above level ground, the right side should be at 29-30", and the left at 27-28". Reasonable?

Sounds about right for DOT-spec headlights and enough to meet state snuff or if you don't have access to an optical aligner.

Most European cars have ECE/DOT homologated headlights and they can be aimed visually. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html


Before Katrina the state inspection here, known as the "brake tag," was run by each parish. Orleans, where I lived (and still unfortunately do), used a device for headlight aim, and also actually checked your braking distance. Nowadays, as long as your lights aren't aimed at the sky, if everything blinks and comes on at the right time, your car will pass.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted by Benzadmiral

Before Katrina the state inspection here, known as the "brake tag," was run by each parish. Orleans, where I lived (and still unfortunately do), used a device for headlight aim, and also actually checked your braking distance. Nowadays, as long as your lights aren't aimed at the sky, if everything blinks and comes on at the right time, your car will pass.

CA doesn't seem to care about headlight aim unless the CHP gives you a fix-it ticket. They still license and certify brake & lighting inspection shops though for some odd reason...