Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by Benzadmiral
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by Benzadmiral
ETA: Found this:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...ghts/63-10-headlight-adjustment/HoeutEYp It suggests I need a long Phillips-head screwdriver. Maybe make a 1/4 turn while aiming the lights at a blank wall, and see how it works?
Wouldn't be a bad idea to check for aim before installing the brighter E-spec capsules.
A fellow here has an aiming video, though not specifically for BMWs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWvSWBlAwnI
He suggests that the cutoff point of the right, passenger, side headlight should be about 2" below the center line of the vehicle, and the driver's side should be about 2" below that. So if your vehicle's center line is 32" above level ground, the right side should be at 29-30", and the left at 27-28". Reasonable?
Sounds about right for DOT-spec headlights and enough to meet state snuff or if you don't have access to an optical aligner.
Most European cars have ECE/DOT homologated headlights and they can be aimed visually.
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
Before Katrina the state inspection here, known as the "brake tag," was run by each parish. Orleans, where I lived (and still unfortunately do), used a device for headlight aim, and also actually checked your braking distance. Nowadays, as long as your lights aren't aimed at the sky, if everything blinks and comes on at the right time, your car will pass.