Gun lube

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Aug 10, 2006
After searching gun boards for a good lube for my rifles handguns and not finding much I remembered this place! Most of the discussion on gun boards about lube/cleaners is "I use brand xxxxx and it works". No one really goes in to details of why and how well, not like you guys here. So my question is, what would be a great lubricant for an AR type of rifle that can extend the life of moving parts? Right now I use break free CLP and little bit of bearing grease, but after CLP sits for a while it evaporates and leaves metal looking dry/not lubricated. What do you guys use on in your weapons?
There are lots of new lubes on the market specifically for AR style rifles. One is Mpro7, which has a great bottle and application tip. Lots of people use a synthetic motor oil, it doesn't evaporate, and it lubricates very well, and withstands high temps very well. After decades of reading posts on this on every forum imaginable I've come to the conclusion that If you bring your rifle home and clean it soon after a shooting session, with whatever store bought solvent, and lube with whatever store bought lubricant (don't drench the thing and ruin any wood), and store it in a good cool and dry environment, then you should be able to give your firearm to your grandchildren. Most folks don't run their firearms full auto, or in such extreme conditions that the modern lubes, even Synthetic Motor Oil, give out. Just thinking here, but another trick, I know guys who have had amazing success in wet rainy environments using a car wax on the exterior of their blued firearms.
Look into Slip 2000 products. They were tested at Aberdeen and exceeded all tests set forth by the military. TO give you an idea of how well their lubes work I was on a prairie dog shoot in SD and over 4 days time I fired 3,000 round through my AR15. I did not clean or relube during that time and gun never had a malfunction and was still nice and wet from the lube. It was filthy but still lubricated. Slip 2000 never burned off from the heat and I was impressed and sold on the stuff after that. Breakfree which is the standard mil-lube is usually dry and burned off in just a few hundred rounds. If you spend any time on gun forums lots of folks are using Slip2000 with the same results. I have used almost every lube on the market over the past 20 years and I have found nothing that is as good as Slip 2000 is.
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Look into Slip 2000 products.
If you look on the biggest AR15 websites, many of the professional trainers have switched to Slip 2000 EWL (Extreme Weapons Lubricant). It supposedly last 2-3 times longer than Breakfree CLP which evaporates. I have used it and it is good stuff. Here is an article about an AR15 with over 30K rounds that was only cleaned once and lubed with Slip 2000 EWL.
The best I found that worked in jungle conditions was Mil spec 7808 turbine oil. Long story about how I discovered this, but it worked. Smoky
Originally Posted By: Smoky14
The best I found that worked in jungle conditions was Mil spec 7808 turbine oil. Long story about how I discovered this, but it worked. Smoky
As someone who supplied nearly all of the MIL-PRF-7808 to the US Military for over 20 years I would love to hear the story! Tom NJ
50/50 mix of ATF and whatever synthetic oil you have on the shelf. It works great on my ARs, Glocks, 1911, and everything else. Why the ATF? On my AR, I found it's a bit easier to clean compared to 100% motor oil. I use this purely as a lubricant, not as a protectant or solvent.
I clean with a 50/50 mix of Kroil/Hoppe's #9. With a little soaking it even gets the hard crusty junk in an AR bolt carrier. I always rinse this off with a spray lube, something not too expensive like WD-40. It gets rid of the cleaner, the stink and solvent further cleans any residue. Then I wipe that off and lubricate properly. I lube with a variety of lubricants depending on the gun and what is recommended. Grease or oil. Light oil. I use light synthetic grease like the old Amsoil spray grease when grease is called for. I use CorrosionX , Triflow, Amsoil MP and others for oil.
^ I've heard really good things about Frog Lube, and also about a new product called FIREClean, but haven't gotten to use either yet. Still making my way through my MPro7 stash.
I use corrosion x on my rifles. Mobil 1, 5w-40 TDT on my 1911's. As the pistols seem to prefer a bit heavier lube. The spray corrosion x is an excellent all around lubricant and protective coating.
Frog lube for grease, ATF for a light oil, GP bore lube/cleaner is Gunk Penetrating oil L104. It's the same as the S&W protectant and cleaner at half the price. On Ruger revolvers, the spring strut where it bears on the hammer gets a ceramic reinforced brake grease for the heavier loading.
A rifle is more likely than a handgun to have copper buildup because of the high velocity of the rounds. A good strong bore cleaner is good for rifles in my opinion, at least occasionally. Something like Sweets. For a handgun I like Hoppes Elite gun cleaner for the bore of the barrel. It works pretty good. The spray bottle does not last long so use it just for the bore of the barrel. I sometimes wonder if there is really much difference in gun oils. Some people even use grease instead of oil. I have tried all different kinds of gun oils and none of them really impress me all that much. But I do think that Rem Oil is too thin. I have heard stories that Breakfree is going down in quality. Maybe it does not make a lot of difference if you use Breakfree, Birchwood Cassey, or Hoppes Elite gun oil.
Originally Posted By: Mystic
I sometimes wonder if there is really much difference in gun oils. Some people even use grease instead of oil. I have tried all different kinds of gun oils and none of them really impress me all that much. But I do think that Rem Oil is too thin. I have heard stories that Breakfree is going down in quality. Maybe it does not make a lot of difference if you use Breakfree, Birchwood Cassey, or Hoppes Elite gun oil.
I have a can of Breakfree and the spray residue is a thick, semi gooey oil. Not exactly what I want to be lubing my firearms with. Rem oil just seems to evaporate. I use M1 5W-40 TDT on my stainless 1911. It seems to be robust enough to keep the slide smooth for many hundreds of rounds. Corrosion X for others.
I have been considering buying Corrosion X. There was a guy here who said that he was an armorer. Before he discovered Corrosion X he put Ballistol number one, Birchwood Casey number two, and Breakfree number three. He said that Breakfree was declining in quality. After he discovered Corrosion X he seemed to be sold on it. Before I do that however I might give Hoppes Elite gun oil a decent trial. I like the Hoppes Elite gun cleaner and a guy at a gunshop recommended Hoppes gun cleaner and Hoppes gun oil. I have never really given the Hoppes gun oil a decent trial and it is available locally. In fact I can now get the MPro7 stuff which is the same stuff and apparently Hoppes obtained rights to sell it as Hoppes products. Anybody have any experience with the Hoppes Elite gun oil?
Mystic, That was me you were refering when you talked about the guy recommending corrosion x. I still highly recommend corrosion x as a gun lube. Just a buy a bottle the next time you get the chance and try it out already. I am sure you will find a use for it! To answer your last question directly, I have never tried hoppes elite and I too have heard it is the same as MPro 7. Anyways, I still recommend corrosion x, break free CLP and Ballistol. There are plenty of other good gun oils out there, those are just the 3 I really like. Birchwood casey gun oil was bumped out of the top list for me because it is a very poor rust preventer and is becoming harder to find in my area. I also feel Dupont multi-use teflon lubricant fills the same niche and is more versaltile. Mystic, It sounds like your train of thought is headed in the right direction. It does not make a big difference as to what gun oil you are using! The main function of gun lube is to put some sort of barrier between the parts that interact with each other while the gun is functioning. You don't want the mating surfaces bone dry while they are rubbing together. Something, anything, slippery to make the parts interact more smoothly with less friction, heat and wear will be better than nothing. This concept is no different with any type of lubricant, be it gun oil, motor oil, personal lubricant, eye drops, ect. They all wet down the mating surfaces and make them operate more smoothly. None of the examples I mentioned above would work very well if they were bone dry, would they? To get our brains out of the gutter, Let's take eye drops for example. Most of us have had dry, irritated eyes at some point in our lives. The mating surfaces are your eye socket, eye ball and eye lids. They all touch each other and have move smoothly across each other in order for you to look around, blink and hold your eyes open longer than just a second. If your eyes get very dry for whatever reason, your eye lids may stick when you blink, it may be painful to hold your eyes open. Moving your eyeballs back and forth maybe uncomfortable and it may even feel like you have sand in your eyes. You put in 2-3 eye drops per eye and all of the above symptoms go away, almost immediately. Now, when your eyes are as dry as above, does it really matter what brand eye drops you used? Does it really matter if the eye drops are the thick heavy kind or the thin, watery artifical tear kind? Does it really matter what the eye drops smell like or the package they come in looks like? The answer is NO. Any type of eye drop will at least help some when your eyes are severly dry. You might really prefer one type over the other but they all do the basic task of making your eyes wet again and they all "work". Gun oils are the same basic logic as eye drops, they all pretty much "work". Long tangent will now end, sorry.... lol The secondary purposes of a gun oil are to prevent rust, float away particulate, clean exsisting contamintion and prevent contanimation from adhereing to the surfaces. Again most gun oils all do this to some degree, although some are certainly better than others, especially when it comes to preventing rust nd cleaning the exsisting contamination. My advice is to stick to a regular oil based lubricant (conventional or synthetic base doesn't really matter) that you can afford, is well tested, proven to prevent at least some rust, does not evaporate very quickly and wont gum up over time. I know from personal experience that corrosion x, breakfree clp, ballistol, super lube, tri-flow, fluid film, motor oil, ATF and others out there all meet those requirements. Just pick what you think is a good value and meets your needs. Do not get into what I call the "Great lube debate". There are just too many good choices out there to ever bother getting involved.
I have used a few different cleaners and lubricants. My favorite cleaner is MPRO7, that stuff just kills carbon build up and doesn't stink up the house like hoppes does. As far as lubricants go, hoppes was the most disappointing. Aside from it having the consistency of water, the stuff evaporated almost over night! MPRO7 was definitely an upgrade from hoppes but it didn't stay put as much as I would have liked it to. My favorite lube so far is Royal Purple 20W-50. It doesn't drip nearly as much as anything else I've used and really sticks to any surface its applied to. My guns run exceptionally smooth whenever I use the stuff. It also has excellent cleaning properties. I clean my guns regularly, but I've found that even after a cleaning, the Royal Purple on a BCG breaks down and suspends any gunk that a cleaning patch couldnt get to. I dumped out what was left of the hoppes oil and filled it with the 20W-50, love the stuff! Plus, at $7 for 32oz Royal Purple beats the pants off of MPRO7 $10 for 2oz...
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