Gummed up internals?

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Took the old reliable push mower out and it would not pull. I checked, the deadman lever was working, ie the little brake pad and kill switch were working perfect. So I work the blade, pull, and it starts and runs.

What's going on? I pulled the plug, still very resistive to rotation. I ran some B-12 (wicked stuff) in the crankcase oil for 10 minutes and I got 80%-90% of the free rotation feeling. I was running 10w40 SuperTech oil (it was very clean from last years oil change). I drained it after the cleaning and replaced with 30w Exxon.

Do you think 10w40 sheared and got sticky on the valve guides. Funny thing is, I just picked up a Simplicty riding mower free! The motor wouldn't turn over - but otherwise in great shape. So feedback is welcome.
 
Looks like the answer came 15 minutes later on this thread: Fuel cleaner additives
Thanks, I like the idea of a soak with LC! I did use stuff in the tank (Gumout's product) and it hadn't helped. B-12 in the oil did. But a soak should do it.

[ April 28, 2004, 07:35 AM: Message edited by: rg144 ]
 
I have ofter seen an exhaust valve rusted open on a motor that was put away at the end of the season with the exhaust or intake valve open.
It's a short run from the outside air to the valves.

Always turn the motor over after stopping to TDC on the compression stroke. You will never have a problem on start up.
 
So you have a 1 in 4 chance of hosing your equipment (on a 4 stroke engine!!). This is the first time it was gummed up.

So I was cutting the lawn with the riding mower just now and thinking, I need a Mil-spec on this.

Step 1: remove equipement from shed (out in the shed way out in the back yard). Drain old winter gas, pour in 1/2 qt of fresh gas.
Step 2: if any tires are flat, return to Issuance Hut and attain tire inflation unit (80 feet away back at house)
Step 2b: inflate all tire units
Step 3: ascertain if any mice have set up home in equipment (this year, no. I put poison around it. But my Troybilt tiller didn't, so this year it had the mouse nest - requiring removal of housing, cleaning, and it ran great).
Step 4: attempt to start (no go this year, the old Sears mower that is older than my 18-20 year college bound kids had a dead battery).
Step 5: if unit will not start, jump-start off nearest automobile ( requiring me to push the darn thing across the bumpy lawn)
Step 6: procure jumper cables (ok, they are in my my daughter's Honda Civic, yet another 100 ft away)
Step 7: jump start lawnmower (that worked, cool!)
Step 8: administrative duties (my son came out to show me his high school project in this college competition that uses a solar powered turbine that he sealed in a near vacumn with magnets on the fins to power a low-voltage generator ~ weird!)
Step 9: restart lawn unit - this time with blade belts engaged
Step 10: fill tank 1/2 full with gas + FP additive
Step 11: cut lawn - each time passing the chicken coop, point at rooster and say "you dah rooster". (Sorry, we have a very assertive rooster).
Step 12: park unit in shed; repeat steps 1 through 11 each weekend.
 
Actually it confirms recommended maintenance, to squirt oil in the cylinder, pull a few times, and no worries for the winter. So thanks.
 
Score another for BITOG (in regard to the Simplicity riding mower). After soaking the cylinder (11 HP B&S) with B-12 (was going to use LC but it still hasn't arrived after 2 weeks :-(` come on Odis let's get with it!) and removing the cowling, then applying vigorous torque, it loosened up. Then the starter was a little sticky too. But after charging the battery, and a fresh oil change (to straight 30W Exxon) I cut the rest of the lawn with the it!

BITOG scoreboard (for me anyway):
1. '96 Chrysler minivan - cured the smoking with ARX and currently running 15w45 Pennzoil LL and a 1/2 qt of Valvoline HM oil (to feed the the seals).
2. '86 Suzuki motorcycle - smooth shifts after replacing 10w40 Castrol Syntec with 15w45 Delvac 1300. Also I think the Sunoco gas is crap and am switching to Amoco this week.
3. Troybilt rototiller - runs great after removing old gear lube (came out like melted chocolate ice cream) with fresh 85w90 ST Gear oil (and cleaning out the mouse nests udner the cowling).
4. MTD lawnmower - cured with B-12 in the crankcase and a fresh oil change.
5. A "free on the the readside" Simplicity 11HP riding mower - cured with B-12 and recharging of the battery - runs like new.
BITOG 5, buy new equipment 0.

[ May 01, 2004, 09:39 PM: Message edited by: rg144 ]
 
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