Grandfather clock - oil

[OVERKILL]

I got a grandfather clock that belonged to my dad's parents the other day. I don't think it has been oiled in a decade+.

In searching what oils to use on it, it doesn't appear as thought they are anything special, most sites I found advocated a synthetic lubricant.

I oiled it today using a syringe/needle and AMSOIL ATF. I was able to get at all the points without taking it apart, which was nice.

Anybody else have any experience with oiling one of these?

 

[Art_Vandelay]

I would have went with German Castrol.

 

[Papa Bear]

I believe folks that had grandfather clocks in their house a century ago had a small open glass of var-sol in the cabinet that lubed the mechanism by the vapors.

I worked for years (1970's-80's-90's) in an electronics repair shop. Our VCR tech swore by ATF as a lube in VCR mechanisms. You probably did your clock a favor.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
I would have went with German Castrol.


No, HTHS is too high. It would have slowed the clock!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
I believe folks that had grandfather clocks in their house a century ago had a small open glass of var-sol in the cabinet that lubed the mechanism by the vapors.

I worked for years (1970's-80's-90's) in an electronics repair shop. Our VCR tech swore by ATF as a lube in VCR mechanisms. You probably did your clock a favor.


Awesome

 

[JHZR2]

Varsol as in the paint thinner?

I'm pretty sure there were some threads by Mori back in the day discussing clock lubes.

I might consider a light vacuum pump oil.

 

[cmorr]

You were able to oil the rear pivot points but nor the front(need to remove the dial and hands)

Here is a link for common oil points

Note: It's important to take note of what you dont oil

I use a 100 percent synthetic oil made for clocks called Liberty oil

http://listoy.com/Clocks/Oil-Clock-4.htm

 

[Kruse]

My mom has a grandfather clock that is somewhat elaborate. When I say that, I guess I mean that it doesn't have all the plastic parts that a lot of the super-cheap modern "grandfather" clocks do. Anyway, she calls a clock repair man out to her house every 4-5 years where he takes it apart and actually lubes it, adjusts the chimes and puts it back together. He's an elderly guy who does it as more of a hobby instead of a living, so the cost isn't too high.
While any modern high-detergent oil may not hurt the mechanism of a clock, I'm just not so sure that I would be using it on something that has a lot of value. Next time the guy comes out, I guess I will watch him to see what type of lube he unloads from his truck.

 

[Trav]

http://www.ofrei.com/page246.html

And folks pi.. and moan about high priced synthetics.

 

[meep]

tri-flow MTB lube--- light weight, some ptfe, nice clean oil--- i'd probably start there if i needed something easy to source.

 

[scurvy]

I would use whichever light oil you have on hand - ATF, MMO, 3-in-1 or the turbine oil-filled Zoom Spout oiler.

I worked in a clock shop one summer and spent many hours taking geartrains out of clocks, cleaning, adjusting, replacing & reassembling them to work like new. Took apart hundreds of clocks that had never been lubed in 60 years and still had zero discernible slop in the pivots. Lubricating it with anything puts you ahead of 99.999% of clock owners!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: cmorr
You were able to oil the rear pivot points but nor the front(need to remove the dial and hands)

Here is a link for common oil points

Note: It's important to take note of what you dont oil

I use a 100 percent synthetic oil made for clocks called Liberty oil

http://listoy.com/Clocks/Oil-Clock-4.htm


I was able to get the front points too.

This clock has the top that comes off with the mechanism square in the middle of the head of the clock. The shaft to the hands is several inches long and so it was easy to get down the front with my needle and oil those points too

I was on a few clock repair sites to make sure I knew what not to oil before I started, but I appreciate you mentioning it! And the site I ultimately used for my guide on what to oil is the same one you've linked

I don't know the age of the clock, but it was made in West Germany.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
My mom has a grandfather clock that is somewhat elaborate. When I say that, I guess I mean that it doesn't have all the plastic parts that a lot of the super-cheap modern "grandfather" clocks do. Anyway, she calls a clock repair man out to her house every 4-5 years where he takes it apart and actually lubes it, adjusts the chimes and puts it back together. He's an elderly guy who does it as more of a hobby instead of a living, so the cost isn't too high.
While any modern high-detergent oil may not hurt the mechanism of a clock, I'm just not so sure that I would be using it on something that has a lot of value. Next time the guy comes out, I guess I will watch him to see what type of lube he unloads from his truck.


This clock isn't modern, it is probably 30+ years old. There isn't a plastic part on it

Now, it is also pretty basic, since it lacks the fancy lunar tracking stuff, but it seems to keep good time and is in good condition.

 

[cmorr]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: cmorr
You were able to oil the rear pivot points but nor the front(need to remove the dial and hands)

Here is a link for common oil points

Note: It's important to take note of what you dont oil

I use a 100 percent synthetic oil made for clocks called Liberty oil

http://listoy.com/Clocks/Oil-Clock-4.htm


I was able to get the front points too.

This clock has the top that comes off with the mechanism square in the middle of the head of the clock. The shaft to the hands is several inches long and so it was easy to get down the front with my needle and oil those points too

I was on a few clock repair sites to make sure I knew what not to oil before I started, but I appreciate you mentioning it! And the site I ultimately used for my guide on what to oil is the same one you've linked

I don't know the age of the clock, but it was made in West Germany.



Well done, that's pretty rare that you could get to all the pivot points without removing at least the face/dial and hands, never experienced one like that

I get allot of clocks that failed due to infrequent oiling or over oiling (some people buy a used clock and then just spray it WD40 and wonder why they have issues a few weeks later

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: cmorr
You were able to oil the rear pivot points but nor the front(need to remove the dial and hands)

Here is a link for common oil points

Note: It's important to take note of what you dont oil

I use a 100 percent synthetic oil made for clocks called Liberty oil

http://listoy.com/Clocks/Oil-Clock-4.htm


I was able to get the front points too.

This clock has the top that comes off with the mechanism square in the middle of the head of the clock. The shaft to the hands is several inches long and so it was easy to get down the front with my needle and oil those points too

I was on a few clock repair sites to make sure I knew what not to oil before I started, but I appreciate you mentioning it! And the site I ultimately used for my guide on what to oil is the same one you've linked

I don't know the age of the clock, but it was made in West Germany.



Well done, that's pretty rare that you could get to all the pivot points without removing at least the face/dial and hands, never experienced one like that

I get allot of clocks that failed due to infrequent oiling or over oiling (some people buy a used clock and then just spray it WD40 and wonder why they have issues a few weeks later


Yeah, I figured myself lucky on that too, as I was fully expecting to have to take the face off to get at things but was elated that this was not the case after beginning my endeavor.

 

[camelCase]

Originally Posted By: meep
tri-flow MTB lube--- light weight, some ptfe, nice clean oil---



This!


You'd want to use a real light hydraulic fluid otherwise. Mostly basestock with some antioxidants and antiwear additives. Very similar to the oil used in metal working mills/lathes due to their precision gears. Enough to slick it up, but not too heavy to slow it down.

 

[cmorr]

Originally Posted By: camelCase
Originally Posted By: meep
tri-flow MTB lube--- light weight, some ptfe, nice clean oil---



This!


You'd want to use a real light hydraulic fluid otherwise. Mostly basestock with some antioxidants and antiwear additives. Very similar to the oil used in metal working mills/lathes due to their precision gears. Enough to slick it up, but not too heavy to slow it down.


Not that simple, varies greatly with the clock or watch movement.

There are some Grandfather, Mantle movements that require (or strongly recommend) 3-6 different lubricants. I just finished a CLA (Clean, Lube, Adjust) on a wristwatch that required three different types of lube.

Grandfather clocks movements attract allot of dust and some oils tend to wick that dust into the pivot points. Using the correct lube and the proper amount restores the original accuracy of the clock ( always clean/oil before making any adjustments)