Good Oil Options for my truck

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1. I drive a 2007 Chevy Silverado, Crew Cab, 4WD, 5.3L V8 (not flex fuel, but it does have Active Fuel Management) 2. Oil requirements are SAE 5W-30, GM6094M, and API seal of approval. Oil change intervals to be determined by Engine Oil Life System. 3. I live in Eastern NC. Winters are mild. Average is probably mid 40's, low teens occasionally, but not very often. Summer is hot and humid. Heat index over 100 degrees not uncommon. 4. I drive the truck relatively easy, gas is to expensive to be hard on the go pedal. I pass slow vehicles on two lane roads, that's about as hard as I push the go pedal. I do open it up occasionally, but not real often. 5. Daily drive is 13 miles one way to work, stop and go, usually takes about 30 minutes. If I take the long way it is an 18 mile trip where freeway speeds get up to 70 MPH. A little more open road, but still some stop and go that way as well. The truck is our family vehicle. We take the truck to get groceries, kids to their activities, if we go as a family, we take the truck. In the summer and on nice days in the winter I tow a boat that weighs about 5000 pounds. It also sits fairly high so the bow creates quite a bit of drag. I bought the truck used. It currently has 131,000 miles. Engine oil life system is currently at 57%, it has burned 1 qt of oil, which is why I am changing the oil (I have only had the truck for 3 months, about 4k miles). I have read that the Active Fuel Management engines tend to burn oil, I guess it has something to do with what the engine is doing when the computer locks out 4 cylinders. My plan is to change the oil when the truck tells me to (once I know what kind of oil and filter is in/on the truck). Based on the fact that I don't have a specific OCI in mind I want to go with oil that will perform over extended periods. I don't much care if I buy the oil local or over the internet I want the best oil for the job. I am a new member, this is my first post, and it is clear that there are many people on this board that know a whole lot more about oil than I may ever know about the subject. I'm looking to take care of this truck in hopes that it will return the favor. I appreciate recommendations on both oil and filter. Thanks in advance. Keith
 
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Try a Dexos approved blend like Castrol GTX Synblend, or even a Dexos approved HM oil like Maxlife. Dexos is not required for your vehicle, but will be a more robust, less volatile oil, and blends are reasonably inexpensive. If you have room for an AC Delco PF61 in the classic design (non ecore. avoid PF61E) it is a very good OEM filter that will allow for about an extra 1/4 of oil capacity due to its longer design.
 
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Mobil 5000 or Motorcraft 5w-30 would be my choices. Either one is decently inexpensive and quality stuff.
 
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Id go with Quaker State Green Bottle with a Purolator PureOne Oil Filter with a 3000-4000K OCI due to your driving. Or if you want to extend OCI go with the Quaker State Ultimate Durability with a PureOne or K&N oil filter (the 12.99, atleast in my area) and id go maybe 6-7K on that.
 
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Originally Posted By: JAM25
Id go with Quaker State Green Bottle with a Purolator PureOne Oil Filter with a 3000-4000K OCI due to your driving. Or if you want to extend OCI go with the Quaker State Ultimate Durability with a PureOne or K&N oil filter (the 12.99, atleast in my area) and id go maybe 6-7K on that.
This guy's driving is easy. I would run the Green Bottle to 6-7K and UD to 10K.
 
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Personally I would run the cheapest conventional oil with a purolator classic down to when your OLM says 20% and then change it. Your driving style is very easy on an engine.
 

poptopjr

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Before I found this site and started reading about oil I purchased M1 EP with a M1 filter for extra capacity. I'm starting to think this may have been overkill. I am considering bringing it back at this point and going with one of the above recommendations, haven't decided just yet. Thanks for the advice so far.
 
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Originally Posted By: poptopjr
Based on the fact that I don't have a specific OCI in mind I want to go with oil that will perform over extended periods. I don't much care if I buy the oil local or over the internet I want the best oil for the job.
Originally Posted By: poptopjr
Before I found this site and started reading about oil I purchased M1 EP with a M1 filter for extra capacity.
 
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Towing a 5000 lb boat in the heat of summer is not easy driving IMO. I would (and have used in my BB Suburban) M1 15W-50, especially with that many miles on the engine. Or maybe the M1 0W-40, but I don't have any experience with that. Towing heavy loads in the hot summer might be pushing a 5W-30.
 
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Maxlife Blend 5W-30. 168 PPM Moly and 3.3 HTHS plus addition detergent and seal condition for your 131K truck. Price around $17 at WalMart.
 
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Originally Posted By: bigt61
Towing a 5000 lb boat in the heat of summer is not easy driving IMO. I would (and have used in my BB Suburban) M1 15W-50, especially with that many miles on the engine. Or maybe the M1 0W-40, but I don't have any experience with that. Towing heavy loads in the hot summer might be pushing a 5W-30.
5,000 lbs is chump for this truck. It is certainly not a heavy load. I'd also be more worried about the transmission than engine. There is absolutely no need to run a 15W50 or even 0W-40. GM has tested 5W30k in this design WELL beyond a 5,000 lb load in summer. FWIW, I have towed 50% more weight running 5W20, in summer, in my Ford. No worries at all.
 
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Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Towing a 5000 lb boat in the heat of summer is not easy driving IMO. I would (and have used in my BB Suburban) M1 15W-50, especially with that many miles on the engine. Or maybe the M1 0W-40, but I don't have any experience with that. Towing heavy loads in the hot summer might be pushing a 5W-30.
5,000 lbs is chump for this truck. It is certainly not a heavy load. I'd also be more worried about the transmission than engine. There is absolutely no need to run a 15W50 or even 0W-40. GM has tested 5W30k in this design WELL beyond a 5,000 lb load in summer. FWIW, I have towed 50% more weight running 5W20, in summer, in my Ford. No worries at all.
+1 I'd bet the tow rating on the 2007 1500 is probably higher than the old 92 3/4 ton Suburban. Towing 5000 lbs is really not going to be working the 5.3 that hard.
 
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Pulling the trailer would probably give it enough of a workout that it wouldn't invoke the AFM and go to 4 cylinders, but I don't think it would be that bad. My concern would be the life it led in the past that might be contributing to the current consumption and if there were any reasonable steps that would reduce it.
 

poptopjr

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Thanks for all the replies so far. A bit more information... The truck is rated to tow 7500 lbs. It has a Gross Combined Weight Rating of over 13,000 lbs. I plan on sticking with 5W30 per the owners manual (unless there is good reason to deviate, lets face it, I'm not worried about a warranty problem). I believe the burning oil is of bigger concern than how I drive or the weight I pull. I baby the truck when given the chance, but expect it to work when it is needed. A few more questions for the willing members of this board... 1. Is there anything, other than adding oil when needed, that can be done about the burning oil? Will certain oils or add packages help more than others? Could some actually make it worse? 2. Is anyone familiar with the OLM on these trucks? Has anyone put it up against UOA to see how accurate it is? Could UOA trump OLM with a long drain oil? 3. How does adding oil effect OLM or UOA? Is there a point where I should stop adding and just change the oil? For example, if i'm 8k miles in and I've already added two quarts and the OLM is still around 40% should I add another and let it ride or go ahead and change it? I assume a new filter with that many miles (this is assuming I choose an extended drain interval oil). Thanks for all the help. Keith
 
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Try using a high mileage oil. They tend to be a touch thicker in the grade and are supposed to help with consumption. They usually have very stout add packs as well. At this point what have you got to lose.
 
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Try maxlife an OCI or two. That may control the oil use better. It sure did in my suburban but mine only tows an 18 ft boat from time to time, so no real heavy towing.
 
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WELCOME to the Forum! Performing a LOF change now is smart and then going to 5K OCI's starting at 135K, then 140K, and 145K is an easy way to remember and provide longer term protection of your truck.
 
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Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Performing a LOF change now is smart and then going to 5K OCI's starting at 135K, then 140K, and 145K is an easy way to remember
This is true.
Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
and provide longer term protection of your truck.
This is not. The only way to determine what constitutes the 'best' use of a lube oil is to perform several UOAs to establish a baseline for your vehicle and to develop trends. Changing oil too early is a waste of resources, money & time. In my considerably biased opinion, it's far better to use a crankcase fill to its maximum benefit before changing it. But if your time is worthless and you're independently wealthy, then 5k OCIs may be right for you. shrug You do your best to get the best fuel economy possible, why wouldn't you do the same for your crankcase oil economy? As far as oil & filters go, you'd be hard pressed to do demonstrably better than any of the name-brand oils or filters. Your climate conditions are mild, your vehicle usage isn't severe. But if you want recommendations, especially based on your observation that it has burned a quart in 4k miles, try a couple OCIs of Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 (regular or nextgen) and a Purolator or Wix oil filter. Consider taking a sample at 5k miles/6 months to check oil condition and decide if you have a basis for extending it further. FWIW, increased oil consumption when switching oil brands is common. It usually takes 2 - 3 OCIs to subside.
 

poptopjr

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Well, I decided to go with Maxlife synthetic blend and a M1 extended performance filter. I will check the oil every week when I put gas in the truck and I will send a sample in for analysis before adding oil or changing, which ever comes first. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm learning a lot at BITOG.
 
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