Good Oil for Locks ?

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Mar 20, 2004
Camas, WA
What's a good oil for locks, on houses and cars ? I've used Lockease (?) since I started working on stuff, and while it seems to work well enough I was wondering if there is something better. I like Lockease as it seems to help locks from freezing up, and to just keep them working. Breakfree CLP seems like a commonly available candidate.
I think that the Schaeffer's Penetro 90 or Royal Purple Max Film are both super products. I have used both and I really like them. If I were to pick a winner it would be both, because the Penetro seems to be a better penetrating lube, and the Royal Purple Synthetic Max Film does excellent as a penetrant, the lasting oil film is really super. JMO [Smile]
Depends how often you want to relube it. Stick to Lock-Ease or powdered graphite, and you should be able to go years at time. WD-40, and it would be monthly if not weekly. Lock-Ease has alcohol in it to melt any ice in the lock and leave graphite behind. If you drop your key in the snow, dry it off before you use.
I swear by Lockease (the stuff with graphite). I've been treating my locks once a year in the fall with it for about 20 years, can't remember having a lock freeze-up.
I used to use the lock grease spray VW sells, but I switched to graphite powder years ago. I don't like the idea of grease attracting dirt inside a lock.
I've heard the graphite lube isn't good for modern cars. Nowadays the locks have electrical contacts that can go buggy on you if you use the graphite lube. That's why some don't recommend it for automotive locks. I'll have to check out the triflow stuff.
Local locksmith shop recommended triflow, said to stay away from graphite since it gums up the lock. I had a house lock rebuilt that was worn out. It was full of chunks of graphite. Triflow seems to work well, but I had some binding in one lock after spraying it. I think it may have freed some of the dried graphite, but am not sure.
I take a pencil and rub the lead (graphite) on the the key and insert the key. The cost is as near zero as you can get and the lock is not flooded with any type of lubricant.
Per lock lube,,I presume you want to lube the tumbler (where the key goes in),, first CLEAN the lock with cleaner and run key in and out,then use a ,spray silicon and inject into key slide,,,for the rest of lockuse a Dow Corning or similar light instrument grease...BL
Could be your key is just getting worn out? teeth are getting rounded off etc. I found this true a few times on cars and just needed to make a new key off the original (after tearing the house apart trying to find it, LOL)
Both keys act up, one is a new key. So methinks its tumblers sticking or the ignition assembly wearing out (40,000 mi seems too early for that). On another forum a gentleman said never used WD40, use graphite spray. I may just check with a locksmith for their advice, hopefully they won't give me something to mess it up so they can make more money!
So lotsa different advice(s) here. My specific question relates on what's good for an ignition key that occasionally jams but always eventually starts the car. I suggest WD40 which I have used in outside door locks and should not harm any electrical wiring it might get into - vs comments on graphite in earlier posts not being good for electrical contacts. Any other thoughts for lubing the ignition switch tumblers?
methinks its tumblers sticking or the ignition assembly wearing out (40,000 mi seems too early for that).
i had a dodge that had a defective ignition switch from the factory. i wouldn't doubt that yours was defective either. just replace it or rebuild it (so you don't have to walk around with two sets of keys ala chevy caprice. also, i've never had to use anything in my (car/house/otherwise) locks and they've been working fine for decades. [ December 07, 2004, 09:31 PM: Message edited by: seotaji ]
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