It would be an extreme waste of time and effort.
I'd separate them into 12v pairs( mainly as my charging sources are for 12v batteries), discharge them quickly to about 11.5v, then apply no less than 40 amps until voltage at the terminals rises to 14.8v, and then hold that voltage until amps taper to very low levels, This constant voltage absorption stage is no less than 4 hours and likely much much longer.
Then I'd crank voltage upto 16.2v and hold that voltage until specific gravity stops rising, or 105f is reached.
This equalization charge can be 40 minutes to 16 hours long.
A hydrometer is required. OTC4619 is a good one, though Francis Freas is the benchmark in accuracy and precision.
A charging source capable of high amperage and seeking and holding a chosen voltage upto 16.2v is also required.
If these two latter tools were available and used previously, the batteries would likely be in far better condition.
In golf carts the series parallel interconnects can be an issue, which might make their owner believe the batteries are compromised, which they might be, because of bad connections AND chronic undercharging.
An IR thermometer on the interconnects, or even a hand placed on them after they have been in use can point to problem connections.
Most plug in golf cart chargers are not capable of equalization voltages, nor do they have temperature compensation.
The lead acid battery that is cycled when never reaching true full charge loses capacity far faster than the one which does, and restoring capacity to remaining potential capacity becomes harder and harder, requiring higher voltages and extended duration at those higher voltages.
The capacity loss accelerates with partial state of charge cycling.
Potential Capacity restoration is dependent on the degree of sulfation. The sulfation is not going to magically dissolve when touched by baking soda.
The whole idea of draining, rinsing and adding new electrolyte is equatable of doing 5 oil changes in a row on a seized sludged neglected engine.
