Going to do my own oil changes! Don't laugh!
- Thread starter FoxS
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Originally Posted By: FoxS
Still wondering why properly installed stands are safer than ramps.
Maybe sloppy e-brakes. I like my car resting on its wheels like they always do, particularly if my rockers have rusted from the inside out, or potentially could have, leaving only paint remaining.
I like changing oil on ramps just because I'm not dinging the paint on my rockers, potentially folding the pinch weld over, etc. And faster. (Not a "safety" answer-- I know)
Still wondering why properly installed stands are safer than ramps.
Maybe sloppy e-brakes. I like my car resting on its wheels like they always do, particularly if my rockers have rusted from the inside out, or potentially could have, leaving only paint remaining.
I like changing oil on ramps just because I'm not dinging the paint on my rockers, potentially folding the pinch weld over, etc. And faster. (Not a "safety" answer-- I know)
For oil changes, ramps are good. But eventually you will want both jack & Jack stands and ramps for different jobs. For example, jacks and stands are needed for the brake job as some one has already said. But for now you are looking at oil and filter changing, so you are going in the right direction. You do need a 'pad' to slide under the car to acess everything. I like the large political signs made out of 'plastic cardboard'. The are easy to wash off, light and easy to store. and allow you to slide back and forth. Find a size that fits under your car the best. They will last a long time. I advize you to stay away from the Fumoto valve. The best drain is the factory drain plug. Instead of foil as an oil deflector for the frame member, try cutting out the side of a plastic bottle and use that as a 'half funnel'. You might even use an old oil bottle , lie it on a flat side and cut the top out so the oil will drain into itand the spout will be the open screw top. Oil changes are serious business here. But the satisfaction you'll get is worth all the effort and planning. Have fun!
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I prefer ramps when I don't have to remove any wheels, otherwise I'll use a jack and stands. I changed the oil on my dad's 2012 MB E350 a few months ago all from up top in the engine bay using an extractor; easiest oil change ever without spilling a drop of oil. My local MB dealer sells Mobil 1 5W40 Formula M for $6/quart so it's cheaper than 0W40 at Walmart.
A decent torque wrench, metric 6pt sockets and breaker bars are a good investment.
A decent torque wrench, metric 6pt sockets and breaker bars are a good investment.
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Good for you doing your own oil changes. You'll know it's done right and not some kid in a pit doing it. Having my car revved very hard at a quick lube place pushed me to the DIY world.
Personally I use rhino ramps in addition to jack stands as a secondary precaution. Rhino ramps work well for me as the surface in the garage is old carpets so the ramps "grab" and don't slide when driving up them.
Personally I use rhino ramps in addition to jack stands as a secondary precaution. Rhino ramps work well for me as the surface in the garage is old carpets so the ramps "grab" and don't slide when driving up them.
What is a good material to go under jack stands / ramps? yes, I know, a concrete slab. Short of that, is plywood fine? I've been using that, and it makes noise/warps/bends, but is better than just putting the floorjack on dirt. I'm thinking of getting some 3/4" pieces, hitting them with poly-something, and using those. Was tempted to get a whole sheet, but that'll be heavy and cumbersome--but would certainly be nicer than crawling around on dirt.
I wanted to add that I use Rhino ramps and they work good, except for one thing. IF your car is low or your car has a spoiler on it, you may run into interference with the ramp. What I have to do is to use a wooden ramp to get on the Rhino ramp. I use 2" X 8" or 10" pressure treated wood. You can get these at construction sites as scraps. This gets your spoiler higher to avoid scraping the ramp. RE: supton--3/4" marine or outdoor plywood is good.You would still need to paint it. Try Home Depot or Lowes, etc for the bin by their trim shop. They cut 4'X 8' for customer's and may have some left overs you can get for a bargain.
Originally Posted By: supton
What is a good material to go under jack stands / ramps? yes, I know, a concrete slab. Short of that, is plywood fine? I've been using that, and it makes noise/warps/bends, but is better than just putting the floorjack on dirt. I'm thinking of getting some 3/4" pieces, hitting them with poly-something, and using those. Was tempted to get a whole sheet, but that'll be heavy and cumbersome--but would certainly be nicer than crawling around on dirt.
I am assuming no garage?
What is a good material to go under jack stands / ramps? yes, I know, a concrete slab. Short of that, is plywood fine? I've been using that, and it makes noise/warps/bends, but is better than just putting the floorjack on dirt. I'm thinking of getting some 3/4" pieces, hitting them with poly-something, and using those. Was tempted to get a whole sheet, but that'll be heavy and cumbersome--but would certainly be nicer than crawling around on dirt.
I am assuming no garage?
Just to add you can't go wrong buying tools and equipment. You will always find a way for them to continue paying for themselves. I don't have ramps simply because I like that stands are smaller and less in the way of anything although I wouldn't throw a pair in the garbage if they were given to me.
So I've almost finished ordering / buying everything.
HF were out of 3/8 torque wrenches so I have to go to another store.
I picked up the 3 ton jacks for $16 while they are on offer. Would you suggest I buy another pair at that price or wait for a deal on a jack and stand combo? There's a $40 deal at AAP but apparently the jack only lifts to 13 inches which is what I'll get with ramps. I also need to do some research on what will be suitable for the Mercedes front jacking point as its further in and has lower clearance.
The ramps are going to give me 6.5 inches of lift. The CLK is 6 inches off the ground. Is that going to be enough space to get under there? Strangely, the Sable is only going to be an inch and a half higher.
I used the $40 off $100 to buy $115 worth of stuff from AAP and get free shipping. Along with my purchases at HF and EBay, this is what I've got so far:
2 pairs of chocks
12000lb rhino ramps
Flexible funnel
2 filter wrench caps
Set of thin wall wheel and nut protector impact socket set
Mechanics gloves
Nitrile gloves
Set of 4 mats for the ramps and me
1/4 inch torque wrench
3 ton jacks
Oil drain plug gaskets
Still to buy:
Oil drain pan
Shop towels
3/8 torque wrench
Jack. But not in a hurry.
Am I missing anything?
HF were out of 3/8 torque wrenches so I have to go to another store.
I picked up the 3 ton jacks for $16 while they are on offer. Would you suggest I buy another pair at that price or wait for a deal on a jack and stand combo? There's a $40 deal at AAP but apparently the jack only lifts to 13 inches which is what I'll get with ramps. I also need to do some research on what will be suitable for the Mercedes front jacking point as its further in and has lower clearance.
The ramps are going to give me 6.5 inches of lift. The CLK is 6 inches off the ground. Is that going to be enough space to get under there? Strangely, the Sable is only going to be an inch and a half higher.
I used the $40 off $100 to buy $115 worth of stuff from AAP and get free shipping. Along with my purchases at HF and EBay, this is what I've got so far:
2 pairs of chocks
12000lb rhino ramps
Flexible funnel
2 filter wrench caps
Set of thin wall wheel and nut protector impact socket set
Mechanics gloves
Nitrile gloves
Set of 4 mats for the ramps and me
1/4 inch torque wrench
3 ton jacks
Oil drain plug gaskets
Still to buy:
Oil drain pan
Shop towels
3/8 torque wrench
Jack. But not in a hurry.
Am I missing anything?
When you go to HFT next time, pick up a couple of the oval flashlights they carry for 3.99 and are often on sale for 2.99 each. They have a have a switch to chose between a 9 LED or a 3 LED light pattern. There is a built-in magnet and a fold away hook to secure the light under the car while you are working. These are small palm size and are good to carry in the door pocket for road side emergencies.
Originally Posted By: supton
No garage.
Sounds like a decent setup so far. Only thing I can think of is the typical wrench/socket set, and pliers, for removing bits out of the way, for anything above an oil change. Oh, maybe a drop light.
I have a garage and it has a coated floor.
Should have mentioned that I have a ratchet / socket set, assorted wrenches and plenty of other non car specific tools eg impact driver hence I got the impact lug sockets.
I have a decent torch / lantern that can sit on the floor and adjust its beam to point upwards but I like the idea of a more serious brighter led lamp that home mechanics use as there isn't too much light getting into the garage.
If the torch doesn't cut it, I'll buy it for next time.
No garage.
Sounds like a decent setup so far. Only thing I can think of is the typical wrench/socket set, and pliers, for removing bits out of the way, for anything above an oil change. Oh, maybe a drop light.
I have a garage and it has a coated floor.
Should have mentioned that I have a ratchet / socket set, assorted wrenches and plenty of other non car specific tools eg impact driver hence I got the impact lug sockets.
I have a decent torch / lantern that can sit on the floor and adjust its beam to point upwards but I like the idea of a more serious brighter led lamp that home mechanics use as there isn't too much light getting into the garage.
If the torch doesn't cut it, I'll buy it for next time.
Originally Posted By: FoxS
for my Merc the recommended procedure is through the oil drain plug.
Really? I thought all the modern day MB cars recommended extraction via dipstick. That's how MB dealerships do it anyway. Works for me, too.
for my Merc the recommended procedure is through the oil drain plug.
Really? I thought all the modern day MB cars recommended extraction via dipstick. That's how MB dealerships do it anyway. Works for me, too.
I always do things like oil changes myself because that way I know it was done correctly and what was used. My wife's car has had a slow leak from the drain plug ever since Easy Lube gave her a "free oil change" about 5 years ago. New drain plug did not fix it, and we found the old plug "sealed" with glue when I did the next oil change after that. They also tried to sell her a timing belt service...for a chain-driven engine.
We complained to the Better Business Bureau and they tried to make things right by... giving us free oil change coupons. As if we would ever go back. I think their rating was either D or F when we made our complaint.
I took a previous car of mine (Honda Accord) to a dealership for something (forget what) and they told me I was leaking from the oil pan. I had never seen oil on the ground under the car so I doubted it. Took it home and looked and sure enough there was oil down the side of the pan. I cleaned it off and several months later still no leak.
We complained to the Better Business Bureau and they tried to make things right by... giving us free oil change coupons. As if we would ever go back. I think their rating was either D or F when we made our complaint.
I took a previous car of mine (Honda Accord) to a dealership for something (forget what) and they told me I was leaking from the oil pan. I had never seen oil on the ground under the car so I doubted it. Took it home and looked and sure enough there was oil down the side of the pan. I cleaned it off and several months later still no leak.
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: FoxS
for my Merc the recommended procedure is through the oil drain plug.
Really? I thought all the modern day MB cars recommended extraction via dipstick. That's how MB dealerships do it anyway. Works for me, too.
I obviously can't speak for all models and all dealers, but I did see an official reply from AMG customer service that a bottom drain was the only way to get all the oil out. I've also seen people say there is no issue leaving some oil behind with a top drain and a couple of these people either work for Mercedes or have technical contacts. But one of them said at 150k you may want to do a bottom drain.
There is also the instance where some Mercedes have a drain for the oil cooler.
I'll see how it goes and then decide if I want to invest in the mittyvac. For the Sable I am going to switch over to M1 oil filters so that I only have to change the filter at the 2-3 year mark so maybe the Mittyvac can be used for both cars.
Originally Posted By: FoxS
for my Merc the recommended procedure is through the oil drain plug.
Really? I thought all the modern day MB cars recommended extraction via dipstick. That's how MB dealerships do it anyway. Works for me, too.
I obviously can't speak for all models and all dealers, but I did see an official reply from AMG customer service that a bottom drain was the only way to get all the oil out. I've also seen people say there is no issue leaving some oil behind with a top drain and a couple of these people either work for Mercedes or have technical contacts. But one of them said at 150k you may want to do a bottom drain.
There is also the instance where some Mercedes have a drain for the oil cooler.
I'll see how it goes and then decide if I want to invest in the mittyvac. For the Sable I am going to switch over to M1 oil filters so that I only have to change the filter at the 2-3 year mark so maybe the Mittyvac can be used for both cars.
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