GM vortec 5.3L- ‘07-‘13 (5w-30) vs ‘14-‘18 (0w-20)

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The ‘07-‘13 5.3L vortec calls for 5w-30
The ‘14-‘18 5.3L vortec calls for 0w-20

isn’t it the same exact engine? I have a ‘09 Silverado (5w-30) but a stash of 0w-20 oil on me. Is it ok for me to use it on this truck?

People with knowledge on the GM vortec engines please reply.
 
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They are both pushrod V8s with 5.3 displacement, and that's where the similarities end. Also, the older version had a 6 qt sump, and the newer one had 8 qt sump, so 33% more oil.
 
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Not the same engine, lots of changes, having said that...a lot of guys on the Chevy truck forums are running 0w20 in their 2014-2018 5.3’s
 
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I guess what he needs to know, is, no do not run Xw20 in the older Vortec/LS/SBC engines that spec a 30 grade, the new ones have better oil cooling and different pump setups, stick with Xw30 or even Xw40 in your older GM V8s.
 
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There is nothing wrong or aberrant in going one grade up. Especially as the engine ages up, and in the case of direct injecting gas motors with variable displacement...

General *opinion* is the skip-fire-skip routine they go through apparently hammer-hammer-dogs at the valves and lifters. Recent recalls and revisions allegedly address the issue... but, still... no terror or reports of going one grade up was the cause of failure.

If a brand, spank a*s new GM specified a 20 grade, I can't see any drawback to going up into a 30 grade, if it's a Dexos certified oil. (But no thicker)

If it originally specified a pre-Dexos 30 grade, I cannot see any harm jumping up to a Dexos-II 40 grade or Porsche A-40 certified oil do any harm in a year-round 0w-40 fill-up from any brand.
 

gallydif

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There is nothing wrong or aberrant in going one grade up. Especially as the engine ages up, and in the case of direct injecting gas motors with variable displacement...

General *opinion* is the skip-fire-skip routine they go through apparently hammer-hammer-dogs at the valves and lifters. Recent recalls and revisions allegedly address the issue... but, still... no terror or reports of going one grade up was the cause of failure.

If a brand, spank a*s new GM specified a 20 grade, I can't see any drawback to going up into a 30 grade, if it's a Dexos certified oil. (But no thicker)

If it originally specified a pre-Dexos 30 grade, I cannot see any harm jumping up to a Dexos-II 40 grade or Porsche A-40 certified oil do any harm in a year-round 0w-40 fill-up from any brand.
How about going down one grade. In this case from 5w-30 (what ‘07-‘13 5.3L silverados call for) to 0w-20
 
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I wouldn't the only reason 0w-20 works in the newer trucks is because of better oil cooling, a variable displacement pump that helps keep the oil pressure higher and there's other enhancements like piston oil squinters to help better cool the pistons under high loads, I'd only stick with Xw30 or Xw40 in older GM V8s.
 
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I assume you've seen Hot Rod mag where they grab a junkyard LS with a zillion miles, put two turbos on it, run on a dyno and just keep cranking boost until they hit 1200 hp and it doesn't fail? These rigs are pretty stout. I wouldn't be too worried about 20 vs 30wt. I ran 20 weight in my 327 Chevy II back it the 60s and it was fine.
 
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