I checked that after you mentioned it and it seems good. Just this little setback.
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GM 3.4L LIM Gasket replacement...
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Colt45ws
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Got it back together now. Still flushing the old garbage coolant out. Just have plain water in it right now. [censored] was it ever ugly coolant. Did they change it when they did it or just recycle it back into the [censored] thing???
Did something odd to me. I have my old SG-I plugged into it right now while I am test driving it and I turned onto a road to go home and the coolant temp starts heading for the sky. It hit 247* and Im thinking I only have a mile to get home so I baby it there and pull into the driveway I can hear the fan is running and it finally starts pulling the temp down.
Im think it may just be because I don't have the air dam installed so I can access the radiator drain, and would explain why the fan can cool it but it was overheating just driving along.
Did something odd to me. I have my old SG-I plugged into it right now while I am test driving it and I turned onto a road to go home and the coolant temp starts heading for the sky. It hit 247* and Im thinking I only have a mile to get home so I baby it there and pull into the driveway I can hear the fan is running and it finally starts pulling the temp down.
Im think it may just be because I don't have the air dam installed so I can access the radiator drain, and would explain why the fan can cool it but it was overheating just driving along.
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Air not fully purged?
That would be my guess, too. They'll overheat quickly if the air isn't bled out properly.
Those engines usually have two air bleeds: One on the water neck where the upper radiator hose attaches, and the other on the little 'tower' fitting above the water pump, where the heater hose pipe and the bypass hose attach.
My method is to fill the coolant with both air bleeds open until it won't take anymore, then start the vehicle and keep bleeding air out both bleeders as it warms up. Then shut off, top off... Then drive the vehicle. Then bleed air out once more, shut off, top off. And that's usually good enough.
Those engines usually have two air bleeds: One on the water neck where the upper radiator hose attaches, and the other on the little 'tower' fitting above the water pump, where the heater hose pipe and the bypass hose attach.
My method is to fill the coolant with both air bleeds open until it won't take anymore, then start the vehicle and keep bleeding air out both bleeders as it warms up. Then shut off, top off... Then drive the vehicle. Then bleed air out once more, shut off, top off. And that's usually good enough.
Colt45ws
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Filled it with coolant today. Ran about 11 gallons of water through it plus radiator flush stuff in the initial fill. The stuff I drained out at the start of the job was terrible looking. Like a dark burnt orange. Never did get it looking any better than bloody urine.
Colt45ws
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New problem developed today. Misfire when cold. Code reader is showing P0301. #1 is of course on the back of the motor. Ran smooth as butter when I checked it, but it was hot.
I had a similar problem with the wife's '01 Lumina after the LIM gasket job. I had also changed the plugs among other things. The engine would miss for maybe the first 1/4 to 1/2 mile, and would run fine thereafter. After some trial and error, I pulled and inspected the plugs. Found that the glass insulator in the #1 plug was VERY slightly loose- I could just move it a little bit- might have been cracked internally, I don't know. Replaced the plug and the engine has run fine ever since.
One inherent problem to look for with these engines is the plug wire terminals where they clip onto the coil packs- they tend to corrode (white, salty-lookin' stuff). Although this USUALLY shows up as a miss under load.
Also, the fuel injector connectors on these engines don't seal well at all, and they tend to misfire if the engine gets wet- especially if you pressure wash it. And it'll clear up when the engine dries out.
One inherent problem to look for with these engines is the plug wire terminals where they clip onto the coil packs- they tend to corrode (white, salty-lookin' stuff). Although this USUALLY shows up as a miss under load.
Also, the fuel injector connectors on these engines don't seal well at all, and they tend to misfire if the engine gets wet- especially if you pressure wash it. And it'll clear up when the engine dries out.
Colt45ws
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Ill have to investigate it a bit more tomorrow preferably before it is driven so I can see it for myself and I am not burning the carp out of myself trying to feel around for whats going on.
Colt45ws
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I pulled it apart today. I tested compression, which was excellent. 170-175psi on all cylinders. Im putting it back together with some tactful component swapping. I put the spark plug from #1 in the #6 hole and swapped the 1-4 and 2-5 coil packs, so I should see it move unless it is fuel related.
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