Gladiator 2020 3.6 Pentastar (Import from US to Germany) Oils and Advice

Joined
Apr 28, 2022
Messages
48
Location
Germany
Hi everyone and thank you for your advice and patience.
We are new to the Pentastar 3.6 and for me (Niki) very new to Gasoline Engines.
Until now we had a Diesel and there I kinda know my oil and like to add a little something something to the older vehicles(which again is just going to start a huge debate).

So we bought an Import, Gladiator 2020, Pentastar 3.6l.
Sadly our relationship with the importer is poor and so far I get half truths or stories. Not going to give the car truck back since the newest batch of imports have added another 10k onto the price and aren't even newer models, as well as loving the heck outa the truck. Huge grin every day driving it. So we want it to last.

As an import we have no service plan, limited guarantees/warranties and no required services by the Jeep Fiat Dealerships.
So Manual states 1 year or 10 000 miles. For me that seems like a lot.
So far we have 600 miles on the clock, but we have a hard time figuring out if the vehicle, a 2020, had an oil change. It is 2022.

-Would you recommend to just do an oil change?

Does it make sense to have the oil analyzed at this point?

And now lets open the can of worms of what oil to use. I have read most pentastar threads and ended up focusing on post 2016, as this is the last major update.
In our manual it states 0w20 for all environments.
It seems this is an okay option. How ever many suggest the 5w20 and the 5w30 especially for hot climate and harsh vehicle operation. We will definitely be pushing the truck.

In Germany the pentastar is known but not popular.
I have found on the EU oil-brand websites Oil Finders that Castrol, Liqui Molli and Ravenoil actually know about a 2020 Gladiator with the 3.6 (EU models are only Diesel)
Also I have heard good stuff about Mobil 1, but can't seem to find a recommendation on their site, and cannot find Pennzoil in Germany so far.

So far I am unsure how to proceed and wanted to ask you all for advice.
Should i just follow the 0w20 (kinda worried they just do it for mpg and emissions) or should I rather go look at a 5w30 for summer altogether. Does it then make sense to change to 0w20 for winter (we get down to -20°C/-4°F)

As far as Ravenoil is concerned they recommend 0w20 but give the option between RAVENOL EHS SAE 0W-20 and RAVENOL DFE SAE 0W-20, is there anything to be gained from looking at the specs and say this is the better option,


RAVENOL EHS SAE 0W-20
Property
UnitDataAudit
Density at 20 °C842,0kg/m³EN ISO 12185
ColourgelbbraunVISUELL
Viscosity at 100 °C8,0mm²/sDIN 51562-1
Viscosity at 40 °C42,9mm²/sDIN 51562-1
Viscosity Index VI163DIN ISO 2909
HTHS Viscosity at 150 °C2,62mPa*sASTM D5481
CCS Viscosity at -35 °C5490mPa*sASTM D5293
Low Temp. Pumping viscosity (MRV) at -40 °C19.800mPa*sASTM D4684
Pourpoint-45°CDIN ISO 3016
Noack Volatility10,4% M/MASTM D5800
Flashpoint232°CDIN EN ISO 2592
tbn8,8mg KOH/gASTM D2896
Sulphated Ash0,97%wt.DIN 51575
RAVENOL DFE SAE 0W-20
Property
UnitDataAudit
Density at 20 °C840,0kg/m³EN ISO 12185
ColourgelbbraunVISUELL
Viscosity at 100 °C8,4mm²/sDIN 51562-1
Viscosity at 40 °C45,9mm²/sDIN 51562-1
Viscosity Index VI163DIN ISO 2909
HTHS Viscosity at 150 °C2,69mPa*sASTM D5481
CCS Viscosity at -35 °C4150mPa*sASTM D5293
Low Temp. Pumping viscosity (MRV) at -40 °C11.200mPa*sASTM D4684
Pourpoint-63°CDIN ISO 3016
Noack Volatility7,6% M/MASTM D5800
Flashpoint238°CDIN EN ISO 2592
tbn9,0mg KOH/gASTM D2896
Sulphated Ash0,8%wt.DIN 51575

Thank you all so much
 
Last edited:
Welcome to BITOG 🥳

Europe has many more oils that are good for long drains, ACEA A3/B4, etc. That's part of the reason oil costs $20/qt over there :sneaky:

You can use diesel oil in your gasoline engine with no problem. Any of the synthetic 5w30 HDEO oils should be good, especially something ACEA E4/E6

Pennzoil is called Shell Helix in Europe.

You don't have to use 0w20 in winter, as 5w is good to -35. If you still want 0w-oil, you might want to consider 0w30. An A3/B4 0w30 seems like a good choice. Shell Helix Ultra 0w30 might suit your needs :)
 
Thank you @slacktide_bitog 😀
Jup, Oil is not cheap but our gasprices are way worse at the moment :cautious:
But whatever, we love our vehicles and driving to me is a huge freedom.
Pennzoil is called Shell Helix in Europe.
That is funny, I would never have made that connection, and did not really find anything googling Pennzoil in Germany. Except some scalpers on ebay charging big bucks.

You don't have to use 0w20 in winter, as 5w is good to -35.
Super good to know, so unless we drive to Norway/Finnland we are fine :) I will look into the Shell Helix Ultra for sure and thank you again.
 
If you still want 0w
I must say, the if you want with oil to me is still strange. I grew up with the: This is the oil, this is law, you will go to hell and the engine will die if it is not 100% this. My father never really explained or taught me about vehicles sadly, just made it very clear not to break it by fueling wrong or filling in wrong oil. Heck I even have jitters filling in a different brand (but same spec) of oil in an emergency because additives etc. It was hammered into me.

Also this is our first expensive car :)
 
I must say, the if you want with oil to me is still strange. I grew up with the: This is the oil, this is law, you will go to hell and the engine will die if it is not 100% this. My father never really explained or taught me about vehicles sadly, just made it very clear not to break it by fueling wrong or filling in wrong oil. Heck I even have jitters filling in a different brand (but same spec) of oil in an emergency because additives etc. It was hammered into me.

Also this is our first expensive car :)

To be fair, German/European cars can be quite picky with oil and other fluids, in a way that most American and Asian cars are not :unsure:

In Europe, MS-6395 doesn't mean much, and neither does GF-6A. Even the basic ACEA specs like A3/B4, A5/B5 and the C-specs are far better than basic API/ILSAC PCMO specs for American gasoline engines.
 
Welcome ! Congratulations on the new vehicle.

You live in Europe, so distance is measured in km, does the import have the speedo in km or miles? Only reason I asked is that you were concerned about a 10,000 mile oil change interval (OCI). It's never a problem to change the oil early, and if your gauges are set to km, then 10,000km (6000 miles) is a reasonable number to use for a shorter OCI.

Of the two oils above, I like the RAVENOL DFE 0W-20, it's a bit thicker (higher HTHS) but with lower Noack volatility and also lower pour point, so it looks like better base stock is used (probably PAO).

I just looked up that oil, it's API SP, ILSAC GF-6A and Dexos1-Gen2. That's a fine oil, that they say is suitable for MS-6395.
 
Welcome ! Congratulations on the new vehicle.

You live in Europe, so distance is measured in km, does the import have the speedo in km or miles? Only reason I asked is that you were concerned about a 10,000 mile oil change interval (OCI). It's never a problem to change the oil early, and if your gauges are set to km, then 10,000km (6000 miles) is a reasonable number to use for a shorter OCI.

Of the two oils above, I like the RAVENOL DFE 0W-20, it's a bit thicker (higher HTHS) but with lower Noack volatility and also lower pour point, so it looks like better base stock is used (probably PAO).

I just looked up that oil, it's API SP, ILSAC GF-6A and Dexos1-Gen2. That's a fine oil, that they say is suitable for MS-6395.
Thanks. We are super stoked.

The speed is interchangeable through the dash. If we set the vehicle to km/h it changes the counter also to km. Manual etc is for the American market, so it is all in miles. We have done about 960km which i think is about 600 miles. I don't love that I don't know how long the vehicle was sitting with the same oil. I kinda have to assume that it's build date is the date of the oil. No stickers no nothing and like I mentioned the importer is a bit silly to deal with.
Ravenol is held in high regards with our offroad buddies, but what they call offroading is a walk in the park in the states :) so I think it is always good to check what others think. Thanks for looking it up (y)
MYymain concern is to give the engine the highest chance of success to be with us a long time. If something happens, it happens and will happen anyway. I want to do our part in ticking all the boxes of taking care of this rig. The local Jeepers are not really familiat with the Gladiator and even less with the Pentastar. A few JKs have it, but they are a quite bunch :)
 
Get to a VW dealer and buy 508/509 0W-20 or 504/507 0W-30
Hey there.
My experiencewith the official Dealers (like a VW place) so far is they are a little resistant on those kinda stunts if I show up with the Gladiator :) I tried getting a part from Merc Dealer which is 100% the same in my Grand Cherokee and they tried to refuse selling me that part. Ended up ordering it from Italy through ebay. Often they are also resistant letting you buy it if they are not the ones getting to do the work ... I dont really know why they are a bit silly. Maybe I can find one that is willing.
Seems I can order it online fairly easily. https://www.motoroel100.de/VW-0W-30-Longlife-III-FE-VW-50400-50700-5L
How come, do you think it is really high grade?
 
Hey there.
My experiencewith the official Dealers (like a VW place) so far is they are a little resistant on those kinda stunts if I show up with the Gladiator :) I tried getting a part from Merc Dealer which is 100% the same in my Grand Cherokee and they tried to refuse selling me that part. Ended up ordering it from Italy through ebay. Often they are also resistant letting you buy it if they are not the ones getting to do the work ... I dont really know why they are a bit silly. Maybe I can find one that is willing.
Seems I can order it online fairly easily. https://www.motoroel100.de/VW-0W-30-Longlife-III-FE-VW-50400-50700-5L
How come, do you think it is really high grade?
Yes I think VW specifications are some of the toughest.

My dealers were great when I lived in Rothenburg o.d.t (Reichert BMW/MINI and Autohaus Gurrath VW)
 
I was told here that the 3.6 PUG motor was designed specifically for 0w20 and was a world wide specification. It was a member here that knows one of the original pentastar engineers. I can’t remember that exact thread I read it on but it’s been discussed a few times on here.

I obviously can’t say it will cause harm to run a thicker oil, I know many engines specifications I’ve the years have called for thinner oils with no specific changes internally. But in this case, this was an engine designed for this grade of oil, I wouldn’t worry running it
 
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