GC for Cummins diesels?

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SW Michigan, near Fennville
Our winery has a BEI Grape Harvester and it has a Cumming Series B 3.9 L engine (around 10-12 quart sump). Anyone heard of any objections of using 0w-30 GC on a Cummins Turbo Diesel? When it's chilly out ( fall harvest) Felix has a bugger of a time getting it warmed up enough to start. Sometimes he comes in 2 hours early just to put heat lamps on the oil pan to warm the oil. (using straight 30W oil). I think since we only use this for fall harvest when the temps are fairly mild to chilly, we really don't need 30W oil.

But, just wondereed about the GC Gold that I can get at the local AZ if that would work alright?
 
why not use a 10w-30 diesel oil. your problem is your trying to crank an engine thats oil is already a 30w oil when its cold out. go with a 10W-30 or 5W-40 ROTELLA or delvac or so on. bet that vehicle would start easier.
 
Thanks Jedi. I am looking at getting something along those lines. At Wal-Mart there is a 5W-40 Shell Rotella that is synthetic, and I am sure that would also crank a lot easier. It is not a vehicle. This motor sits up about 12 feet in the air on a harvester. It only runs in the fall. That's it. Rest of the time it sits in the barn. This link shows a picture of the harvester on the upper left. http://www.bei-inc.com/ So, I was just curious if the German Castrol, being 0W-30 and it looks like it is also rated for diesel engines, would be stout enough for this commercial grade Cummins engine?
 
Vern,

I'd use the Rotella, or the Amsoil 10w-30/ACD in this application. The Syntec is for light duty diesels ONLY...

TS
 
ahhh....like the Mercedes Benz car and the like. Or extra light duty like a VW Rabbit diesel
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Dark Jedi..May the force be with you!
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Vern,

If you are burning ULSD fuel or biodiesel, you could probably get an ACEA B4 rated, light duty diesel oil like the Syntec or Mobil 1, 0w-40 to work.

What do they spec for that engine? I assume it's not turbocharged? I'm guessing it calls for the older CF spec, in which case the LD diesel oils I've listed will work with shorter OCI's than you'd use with a CI-4, HD product.

TS
 
Yea, it is turbo charged. I believe it is on it's 18th harvest season, meaning it is 18 years old. As far as hours, it hasn't accumulated that many total hours since it only runs in the fall. Just runs straight diesel, and I don't think #1 either. It's a series B 3.9 L engine.
Belived it called for CD oil.

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I'd try Elf 506.01 which is a 0w-30 weight. It is a Group 4/5 blend and has shown excellent wear in TDIs in both summer and winter driving. Its what I use.
 
This is SW Michigan, aka BFE. We barely have Shell oil and our neighborhood store still sells SA oil!
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Never heard of the Elf. However there are elves working around the GC I've heard
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.....and, why don't the THREAD/FLAT view work like it's supposed to??
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I keep changing it in my profile and I keep getting flat not threaded views. I like it with treads, thank you.
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Vern,

The Petro Canada Duron line is also excellent...I'd rec their Duron 5w-40 synthetic for this job.



TS
 
Heck, even Delo 400 or Rotella T in 15w40 would be better than straight 30wt on cool fall mornings.

Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 would probably be your best bet.
 
Well, I figured about as much. The local WM has the Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 for $15.96/ gallon, and our General Manager told me today ... "buy it!" Felix has such a hard time, it will save him a lot of headaches
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He and his wife Ruth come in extra early to work just to set up the heat lamps for the oil pan so they can start the darn thing.
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What happened to your popcor avatar?
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If you ARE going north of the border. According to those north of the border on this forum The Esso XD3 0w30 is supposed to be the next best thing to GC, maybe better in your situation since it has all kinds of diesel ratings. If I could easily get it down here in Ohio I would.
 
New twist. My boss, the guy that writes the checks (at least oks the writing of the checks) told me the other day he doesn't believe in synthetics. This was during a conversation over some ISO 220 Industrial gearbox grease that we can get local and they quoted us the ISO220 in conventional (a Citgo product) and the other was a ISO220 synthetic grade. I had encouraged the synthetic since it was going in a gearbox driven by a 10 HP 440V electric motor for a large centrifuge....German.. Westfalia. I thought it would be more energy efficient over the long haul in getting the thing up to speed. He said he put synthetic oil in his car and the SOB burned oil ever since. I have no particulars on what kind of car, the oil he chose or the mileage or any other detail other than it left him with a sour taste in his mouth for synthetic. I really think there was more to it than this. There are advocates both ways for motor oil, either mineral or synthetic, but most will concede that the switch to synthetic, other than more expensive, (and/or warranted) should not make more oil consumtions for ever.


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Chances are he knows diddly about oil and used something really thin like M1 10W30.
Or his rings were SHOT and the syn oil cleaned them up enough to leak.

Honestly, since GC is A3/B3 rated i think it'd work in your harvester over the winter.
 
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