GC 0W30 vs M1 0w30 and 0w40 in a Volvo?

[Chris B.]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Sam_Julier
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
To those advising the OP to try other 0w-30 oils, his manual may allow for their use, but also require them to meet ACEA A3 (or a Volvo spec stating HT/HS of 3.5cp or greater), which would eliminate M1 0w-30 and PC 0w-30.

Of course, it may well not NEED an A3 spec oil, but I'm throwing it out there anyway. We all know the M1 0w-40 is an approved lube and a great value.


My 2007 V70 & V70R manual states the following:

Engine Oil specifications: "Engine oil must meet the minimum ILSAC specification of GF-3, API SL and A1/B1." Also: "Synthetic oils meeting SAE 0W-30 and 0W-40 and complying with oil quality requirements are recommended for driving in areas of sustained temperature extremes (hot or cold), when pulling a trailer over long distances, and for prolonged driving in mountainous areas." There is no mention of meeting an ACEA A3 spec or HTHSv of 3.5cp or greater. PC Duron 0W30 has an HTHSv spec of 3.3cp and an API SM rating.

Is it a mistake to run PC Duron 0W30?

Hi Sam,

I'm surprised you can get PC oils in Connecticut and $3.12/qt is as super price.
Yes the HDEO Duron 0W-30 is an good choice for your Volvo. PC oil are a bit shear prone but that should be a non issue since Duron is a heavier than necessary oil to start with. (See the following UOA compared to a TGMO/M1 0W-40 blend):
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3070493&page=1

For the OP, since a light 30 grade oil is what's spec'd by Volvo I wouldn't be using GC or M1 0W-40. Any 5W-30 syn' would be preferable but if you are going to be starting the car unaided at temp's down around -30F, M1 AFE would be a good choice.



Everything I have read says GC is perfect for Volvo engine as they like a heavy 30wt oil. Has this changed?

 

[CATERHAM]

Don't believe everything you read without knowing the source.
Yes there is a bias in favour of heavier oils like GC for European cars even if it isn't specified.
If Volvo says an A1/B1 oil is spec'd (a light 30 grade) then that's what's best to use especially for a Colorado winter.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I'd consider M1 0W-40 the better oil as compared to GC, JMHO.
It really is a bargain by the jug at Walmart as well.
If this engine really needs something like GC, M1 0W-30 would probably not be suitable for it.
As others have noted, you can almost always find Syntec on sale somewhere that stocks the GC flavor if your really prefer to use GC.



I agree. If we could get M1 0w-40 here in Canada for that price I'd be using it in everything I own. And considering I hate Mobil with a passion that's certainly saying something.
And let's consider for a moment that GC is an SL spec,2 behind the current American sourced SN spec M1 this question is a no brainer to me.
Cost alone would make the choice for me.
In a nutshell they are both euro spec oils and meet most of the same specs although due to the newer formulation in M1 means it meets extra more current engines specs that the older GC may not qualify for for whatever reason.
If the engine likes thicker 30 grades then M1 should be just fine considering its a thin 40.
Iirc the M1 is thinner at start up and has a higher VI,which improves pumpability at all temps. And the M1 has all the good cutting edge stuff like the tri-nuclear moly,multi-branched viscosity index improvers etc,etc.

As far as I'm concerned the 2 lubes are interchangeable in this particular application so all that needs to be considered now is which one is closer to ideal.
So once we factor in the colder ambient temps,the fact that the ht/hs is basically the same and knowing the M1 SN labelled 0w-40 is a more modern,cutting edge and one of the best oils on earth the choice is clear.

And it's cheaper.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
What weight does it spec? If 0w30/5w30/0w40/5w40 then either M1 0w30 or 0w40 will more than suffice *if that is the weight that is called for*. $68 is a lot to spend on an oil change, by my standards anyway.


Weight?
If we follow that logic to the end an oil "weight" would have to be a monograde such as S.A.E. 40.
So a multi-grade oil such as a 5w-30 would have to be called "weights" because weight is singular and since a multi-grade oil actually qualifies as more than 1 grade your posts above should be asking what weights the oem specifies.
Considering the vintage of the OP's Volvo he can use a different weights oil depending on ambient temps and if it gets hot enough than his manual may specify a specific weight oil,unless the owners manual doesn't allow a mono grade lube at any temp.
Have I got that right.
I was confused with the whole weight thing since weight would imply single or mono hence mono grade.
A multi-grade would have to be referred to as weights since it qualifies as more than one depending on the lubricants temperature.

My head hurts

 

[crashtestdummy]

Originally Posted By: Ayrton
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
I have been using German Castrol 0w30 in my 2004 Volvo XC70 for years with good UOA results. It costs me about $68 for an oil change doing it myself with the GC. I can get Mobil 1 0w30 and 0w40 for $22 at my local Wal-Mart which is so much cheaper!. Does anyone know if the M1 0W30 or 0W40 would perform as well or better in the Volvo's engine? I know Volvos like thicker oil and GC is a thick 30wt oil. The car has 98,000 miles on it and I don't want to cause any oil burning or other problems making the switch but it would be nice to save a little money. Thanks for any input!


Why not try Mobil 1 0w40? As you suggest, it's a terrific value compared to GC. I use Mobil 1 0w40 in a couple different cars. It's not fair to judge it on it's price, it's right up there with GC if not better.

Try it in your car, if you like it, you probably will, you saved some money. Otherwise, you could alway switch back to GC at the next oil change.


^Totally agree. Both oils are highly regarded. If you don't like it, it will just cost you $22 to drain it out or shorten the interval but I doubt you would even notice the difference.

 

[Chris B.]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Don't believe everything you read without knowing the source.
Yes there is a bias in favour of heavier oils like GC for European cars even if it isn't specified.
If Volvo says an A1/B1 oil is spec'd (a light 30 grade) then that's what's best to use especially for a Colorado winter.






I'm not sure exactly what specs GC meets but I did do UOA's on ever oil change for the past 50,000 miles and the wear was super low ever time using the GC.

 

[ac_tc]

The white volvo engines doesent seems picky about oil but
they do tend to sludge up the oilpump´s intake at say 100 kmiles
if the recomended long oci is used. (in sweden about 12500 miles)
Those who change at 7-10000 miles seems to be ok.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Don't believe everything you read without knowing the source.
Yes there is a bias in favour of heavier oils like GC for European cars even if it isn't specified.
If Volvo says an A1/B1 oil is spec'd (a light 30 grade) then that's what's best to use especially for a Colorado winter.


I'm not sure exactly what specs GC meets but I did do UOA's on ever oil change for the past 50,000 miles and the wear was super low ever time using the GC.

That doesn't mean GC still isn't thicker than necessary for the way you operate your car.
My point is that any 5W-30 syn' will provide all the hot viscosity reserve you'll ever need while providing less excess viscosity on start-up and during warm-up thereby being as better overall lubricant choice.

 

[Chris B.]

Wouldn't the 0w30 GC flow better at any given temp then any 5w30?

 

[Flareside302]

Mobil 1 0w-40..

 

[Chris B.]

bump!

 

[dmk]

Might be a bit dated however I ran M1 0W 40 mostly in my '03 Saab 9-3 SS turbo 4.
I did several uoa's including one with a run of GC 0W 30. Under very similar conditions the GC TBN was depleted by 14,000 mi. while the M1 was going to about 17,000 mi. Other things in the uoa's were similar.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Wouldn't the 0w30 GC flow better at any given temp then any 5w30?


No, not necessarily. At most temps, GC will be more resistant to flow than an API 5W30 (the exact point at which GC will be flow better than a lighter 5W30 depends on the oil, but at least down to freezing a lighter 5W30 will flow better).

My experience with those engine is that only the high-boost versions require an A3-rated oil; the NA and low-boost turbos just don't get the oil that hot. The high-boost 2.3L can cook the oil, so an A3 rated oil is a good idea if you're driving it really hard.

I'd just use any API 5W30 and rest easy.